Thanksgiving Recipe and Wine Pairing - Chef Brianas' Gnocchi

Chef Constantine Brianas, a native of Nashua, has become one of the more acclaimed chefs of the area. He joined co-owners Stephen and Karen Williams a couple years back to create Unums. Since then, the restaurant has become a beacon of fine food and wine that challenges and trumps the best that southern New Hampshire has to offer.

Brianas’ innovated dishes and rotating menu offer a wonderful alternative to some of the more traditional fair in the area. One of the things that Unums does so well is their gnocchi and Chef Brianas was kind enough to share one of his seasonal recipes with us! It may look complex, but in all honesty if you follow the instructions it is very doable.

Gnocchi with Colossal Shrimp in Simple Pumpkin Sauce with Toasted Ginger

(4 servings)

Ingredients for Gnocchi:

1/2 cup whole milk Ricotta

1/3 cup Romano cheese (grated)

1 tsp lemon juice

3 eggs

Salt & Pepper to taste

Flour to consistency (approx 1-2 cups)

Ingredients for Toasted Ginger:

1 tree of ginger

Olive oil to coat

Dusting of ginger powder

Dusting of garlic powder

Zest of 1 orange

1 sprig of tarragon or sage

Ingredients for Shrimp:

12 large shrimp (peeled and deveined)

1/3 cup pumpkin puree

1/3 cup heavy cream

1 cup vegetable stock

2 tbsp. of maple syrup

1 tbsp. lemon juice

Step 1 – Gnocchi

Blend eggs together and then add Ricotta and whip together until a creamy consistency. Then add lemon juice, Romano and salt & pepper (to taste) and then whip until it returns to creamy consistency. Add the flour slowly until the mixture begins to fall of the edges of your mixing bowl. Continue to slowly add flour at this point until the stickiness turns to a pizza dough consistency.

Step 2 – Gnocchi

Gnocchi mixture should be rolled into logs that are ½ inch in diameter and then cut into 1 inch pieces. Set aside.

Step 3 – Toasted Ginger

Preheat oven to 450. Peel ginger, exposing all of the raw flesh and then cut into pieces so that you can mince it. In an ovenproof pan, add the olive oil and then after a few moments (allowing it to get hot), add the ginger and lightly dust the ginger and garlic powders and then toast until golden brown. Add the orange zest and sage or tarragon (julienned). Put into the oven for 7 minutes.

Step 4 – Shrimp and Simple Pumpkin Sauce

Sauté shrimp in a skillet until flesh turns pinkish and then add the ginger mixture from the oven and continue to sauté until golden brown and the shrimp have curled. Add the vegetable stock and heavy cream and then reduce by 1/2 until a lightly thickened consistency occurs (if it seems to be too thick, add a little more vegetable stock).

Step 5 – Gnocchi

Boil a pot of water and add a slight pinch of salt. Add the gnocchi and watch it sink to the bottom. Once the gnocchi floats to the top, strain it in a colander.

Step 6 – Finalizing the dish

Add the pumpkin puree and maple syrup to the mixture that has been sautéing and lightly incorporate. Then add the gnocchi, lightly stir for a couple moments and then serve!

Perfect Pairing

2007, Truchard, Chardonnay, Carneros, California - $29

While sitting with Chef, he recommended using a crisp white wine with this dish. Either a Sauvignon Blanc, Un-Oaked or lightly oaked Chardonnay or Riesling would work quite well. He recommended the 2007 Truchard for this dish as it is one of the wines on Unums wine list. It is light yet complex blend of nectarine and pear with lively acidity and long finish that will cut through the creaminess of this dish.

Enjoy!

Thanksgiving Recipe and Wine Pairing - Chef Brianas' Gnocchi

Thanksgiving recommendations from the experts

As published in the 11/18 issue of the Nashua Telegraph (click here to view Telegraph version).

Wine to me is passion. It’s family and friends. It’s warmth of heart and generosity of spirit.

When I think about these words uttered by the late Robert Mondavi, I cannot help but imagine him speaking about the many occasions that took place during his life in which he shared what he referred to as “the gracious life.” In many ways, I feel that all of us share in the gracious life on one day in particular, Thanksgiving.

Thanksgiving is a day unlike any other during the year. It symbolizes something that is so simplistically beautiful and humbling – being thankful. Next Thursday, families will converge on dining room tables all over the country. Little kids at one end, adults at the other, but all joined together as a family. The traditions will vary from region to region, and the spread will include a variety of dishes from the traditional turkey and mashed potatoes, to lasagna, to baked macaroni and cheese. No matter what is on the table, the attention is squarely on the meal and togetherness that this wonderful day promotes.

However, there are some conundrums that may arise. A common point of inquiry surrounds wine. The typical question of “What wine pairs well with Thanksgiving dinner?” will inevitably come up numerous times. There are many possible answers; nevertheless, there are variables to consider first: What is the main element of the side dishes? Are there any harsh flavor components? How is the turkey prepared? Who are my guests, and what do they like?

Now, I could be very general and say that Oregon pinot noir goes well with turkey with cranberry sauce, or that a Gewurztraminer from Alsace would go well with a mushroom and herb stuffing, but I think you all deserve more than that. Thus, I have enlisted the help of a team of experts from the culinary and wine worlds to assist me in this task. I have posed to them this simple question: What is your favorite traditional family dish served on Thanksgiving, and which wine would you pair with it?

When approaching the recommendations, one thing to consider is why these pairings work. Here are a few simple rules to help you along:

• Choose a wine you enjoy.

• It is generally safe to pair hearty dishes with hearty wines and conversely lighter dishes with lighter wines.

• Pay attention to the accompaniments of the dish. Some wines may go well with turkey and mashed potatoes, but not the brussels sprouts or horseradish being served with them.

• Don’t stress about it; wine is meant to elevate, not tear down. You are with loved ones who will likely appreciate your effort.

However, if you have an aunt, uncle or hotshot cousin who is truly into wine and would look down on you if you served Two Buck Chuck, let’s hear what the pros have to say to help you to avoid such a disaster:

Appetizers

• Constantine Brianas, executive chef and co-owner of Unums in Nashua, NH: “Buttered Gnocchi with Toasted Ginger, Simple Pumpkin and Colossal Shrimp is not only a dish that we serve at the restaurant, but also one that I serve during Thanksgiving. The combination of the fresh made gnocchi with the pumpkin puree has an autumn feel that is undeniable and sets the stage for the rest of the meal.”

Brianas’ perfect pairing: 2007 Truchard Chardonnay from Carneros, Calif.

• Merry Edwards, trailblazing winemaker/owner of Merry Edwards Wines in California: "One of my favorite recipes during Thanksgiving is Connie’s Hot Crab Dip. It is made with Dungeness crab and is a dish that was one of my dear friend’s late mother’s and one which we continue to enjoy today."

Edwards’ perfect pairing: 2007 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley pinot noir from California.

Main course/sides

• Jon Carnevale, sommelier and general manager of the Bedford Village Inn in Bedford, NH: “Occasionally, we go with an alternative to the traditional stuffed turkey. One of our favorites is Wild Rice and Chestnut Stuffed Game Hen. It is an incredibly aromatic dish from beginning to end, with the thyme and sage announcing the main courses arrival.”

Carnevale’s perfect pairing: 1997 Domaine des Comtes Lafon “Clos de la Barre,” Meursault from France or 2006 Lemelson “Thea’s Selection” pinot noir from Willamatte Valley, Ore.

• Karen and Stephen Williams, wine loving co-owners of Unums: “Typically, we brine our turkey overnight and then fill it with an amazing Leek and Wild Mushroom Stuffing. The stuffing is a combination of porcini, shiitake and button mushrooms, along with crumbled French baguette, thyme and fresh leeks. On the side, we do a mashed potato with roasted garlic and freshly grated horseradish.

The Williamses’ perfect pairing: 2005 Krupp Brothers Black Bart Marsanne from Napa Valley.

• Jason Berkman, executive chef at Legal Sea Foods in Burlington, Mass.: "Ever since I became a chef, I have had to step it up in the kitchen at home during the holidays. Besides the traditional Thanksgiving fare, one of my favorite side dishes is Applewood Bacon Braised Kale. It is quite the crowd pleaser."

Berkman’s perfect pairing: 2006 Domaine Drouhin pinot noir from Willamette Valley, Ore.

Dessert

• I couldn’t let the column end without dessert! Luckily for us, my grandmother (Dolores Peck) makes a scrumptious traditional cheesecake. Grandma’s Cheesecake is nothing flashy, just Philadelphia and a lot of love. Typically, dessert is paired with coffee or tea, but if you want a truly memorable dessert experience, Sauternes or Tokaji will bring this to the next level.

My perfect pairing: 2005 Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttanyos Red Label from Hungary.

I would like to thank our experts for their thoughtful recommendations. Hopefully, their suggestions will assist you when putting together some terrific pairings of your own this Thanksgiving.

From our families to yours, have a safe and happy Thanksgiving!


Editor's Note: Recipes for the dishes mentioned in this article will be posted one at a time daily beginning tomorrow.

Thanksgiving recommendations from the experts

Wine list can speak volumes about an eatery

As published in the 10/21 edition of the Nashua Telegraph (click link to view Telegraph version).

A restaurant’s wine list says a lot about who the people running it are, what their aspirations are and what they think about you. This is very evident in locations that you will visit across the country. From Applebee’s, to The Cheesecake Factory, to Mario Batali’s Del Posto, you will find very different, yet appropriate, wine experiences that fit the atmosphere, cuisine and crowd that typically dine at these establishments.

I bring up Batali’s Del Posto because a good friend of mine recently dined there while taking a long weekend in New York City. Once he returned, he had a few questions for me regarding his wine experience at Del Posto.

On a recent trip to New York, I went out for a truly fine dining experience. After being seated, I was greeted with a massive wine list. When I mean massive, I mean more than 2,500 selections. How does a restaurant build and maintain such a large list, and is it necessary?

This is certainly a legitimate way to look at the situation. A wine list of this magnitude can be overwhelming, to say the least. The answer to the first part of the question will be a bit wordy, so let me address the second part first.

Using my friend’s example, Del Posto is in the food and wine mecca of the U.S. Day in and day out, it goes up against culinary giants such as Daniel, Jean Georges, Le Cirque, Tribeca Grill and countless others. Competition is fierce, and there is a significant amount of prestige that is placed on an award-winning wine list and the service that is provided by their resident sommelier(s). Having truly classic wines available is an appropriate necessity when you are dining on a truly classic meal!

Del Posto, as mentioned before, is one of many restaurants owned by Batali. Besides being an extremely successful restaurateur, he is also a partner in Italian Wine Merchants, which is a high-end wine shop that has a selection of Italian gems unlike any other I have come across. It is this passion for bringing together the complete dining experience that sets restaurants and restaurateurs, like Batali, apart. It is also what allows the restaurant to charge a premium for the experience that it provides, while maintaining a waiting list as long as Madison Avenue! How does a restaurant build and maintain such a large list?

To build a wine list with the breadth and vision of Del Posto, locally based Left Bank at the Stonehedge Inn & Spa (owner Levent Bozkurt and son Taylan pictured right) in Tyngsborough, Mass., or any restaurant with a tremendous wine offering, takes a very structured approach. Once the structure is in place, knowledgeable people are needed to implement the list, along with an owner with exceptionally deep pockets.

Initially, the most important steps are to realistically assess your clientele, menu, storage space and budget. Not everyone can afford a bottle of a Bordeaux First-Growth, Chateau Petrus, Gaja Sori Tilden or Romano Dal Forno, especially when marked up to restaurant standards. This means that there must be a number of wines to bridge the gap between reasonably priced wines and the classics.

The job of creating any wine list typically falls either to the owner, a wine director, a consultant or, unfortunately in some cases, a distributor. Now, a list that is of notable quality will probably not be developed by distributors, so we will avoid speaking about them any further.

Depending on the size of a wine list, the owner, if truly knowledgeable, or a consultant can put into place something special that will convey to the patrons that their experience is of the utmost importance. This takes a massive amount of time and effort, so unless you plan on doing all of the leg work, hire someone to do it for you. A couple good examples of this are Unums and Michael Timothy’s in Nashua. They have modest wine lists compared to Del Posto, but lists that are well thought out and looked over by the owners.

A different example is Junipers at the Wildflower Inn in Lyndonville, Vt. The owners and management did not have the knowledge to put together a thoughtful and quality wine list. They decided to hire a consultant do so. (In full disclosure, I put together this list.) It was rewarding to see them embrace what a thoughtful wine list could do, not only for their patrons, but for their restaurant.

Creating and maintaining a list such as the one at Left Bank at Stonehedge, which offers 2,000 selections (112,000 bottles in inventory), or Del Posto, which offers 2,300 selections (39,000 bottles in inventory), takes a team effort. The organization is typically led by a wine director and generally includes personnel working beneath them (i.e., assistant director and sommeliers). The task is a daily exercise in taking inventory – thank goodness for computers – reordering, blind and regular tastings, negotiating, rotation, research, promotion, etc. It is a daunting task, but a task that is energetically undertaken, because wine professionals are exceptionally passionate about what they do.

Ultimately, a restaurateur’s goal is to create an experience that is positively unique and memorable. A strong wine list is essential in conveying the message of a restaurant to its patrons. If this is done effectively, the guests will leave happy and be more likely to return.

Wine list can speak volumes about an eatery

Date Night: Unums

As published in the 10/7 edition of the Nashua Telegraph (click link to view Telegraph version).

Like most married couples with children, my wife and I have date nights that allow us to have time for each other without the rigors of bringing along the family. This past week, we decided to take our date night to Unums.

We selected Unums because of their Wine Down Wednesday program. On Wednesdays, they open five different bottles of wine, which are normally only available by the bottle, and offer them by the glass. It is a nice way to try normally more expensive bottles without paying top dollar. They also offer a flight of these wines. Wine flights are becoming a more common, and welcomed, addition to restaurant wine experiences. A flight involves a few different wines that are served as a group in tasting portions (usually 2-3 ounce pours), to allow you to try a number of different types of wines without paying full glass prices.

We decided on a wine flight to accompany our array of appetizers. Unums has a continuously rotating menu, which allows co-owner and chef Constantine Brianas to show off his culinary repertoire. The dishes selected were the Unums Tart, Pork Medallions, and the Wild Mushroom and Spinach Gnocchi. Chef Brianas’ creations were a delicious accompaniment to our wines and his well-developed dishes, especially the Unums Tart, energized our taste buds.

The wines that were selected for the flight by co-owner and passionate wine lover, Stephen Williams, offered a delightful assortment of diverse varietals:

The Bodegas Agnusdei (Albariño), from the Rias Baixes region in northwest Spain, was a very light, crisp and smooth way to start off the tasting. For those not familiar with Albariño, it is somewhat similar to Pinot Grigio in taste. This wine had a very nice amount of pear and pineapple in the aroma and also on the palate. I give this refreshing wine an 88 point rating.

To continue our progress from light to heavy, we had the Villa Di Corlo Giaco (Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Merlot) from Italy, which offered a nice transition into the reds. The aroma of smoked cherry was mirrored on the palate, along with the typical dark berries imparted by the Cabernet/Merlot blending. The unique element in this wine was the subtle hint of eucalyptus (yes, the same leafy greens that koalas enjoy). Although the finish was somewhat short, this was a lovely wine. I rate this at 88 points as well, as it was a very good wine.

Staying in Italy, we partook in a Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva (Sangiovese) as the third tasting. It was a dry wine with blackberry on the palate and nose. Its tannins offered a little spike, which allowed it to stand up to the food we were eating. The Felsina was a very agreeable wine. I give this an 89 point rating.

The next wine was my favorite of the flight, a Michael & David Phillips Petite (Petite Sirah). Personally, I like my wines bold with a nice level of complexity. This Petite Sirah offered both characteristics. The aroma and taste shared notes of blackberry and currants. However, it was the familiar taste of cigar that made this wine memorable. Some slight peppery notes, which my wife accurately pointed out, rounded out this very good wine. It is deserving of a 90 point rating.

The final tasting in the flight was the Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Artemis (Cabernet Sauvignon). This was a pleasant wine to drink and it offered a very good amount of well developed blackberry and currant. It had a nice medium to medium-heavy body. I would give this wine 87 points because it was one dimensional, yet essentially pleasant. I am a huge fan of Stag’s Leap’s slightly older vintages (2000 and earlier), but recently I feel they have fallen from great to good. Again, this is all personal preference and my wife certainly enjoyed this wine.

Overall, Unums provided a wonderful escape from reality for a few hours. Stephen and Walter, our waiter, were very gracious with their knowledge and caring conversation. I would highly recommend Unums for your date night and hope you share a similar experience.

Information about Unums
Location: 47 E. Pearl St, Nashua
Phone: 603.621.6500
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 5:00-Close
www.unums.com

About Wine Ratings
95-100 Classic: A Phenomenal Wine!
90-94 Outstanding: A wine of excellent character and style
85-89 Very Good: A wine with some special qualities
83-84 Good: A solid well-made wine
< 83 Why bother?

Date Night: Unums

Be educated when looking at a wine list!

Few things irk me more than restaurants that mislead their patrons regarding their wine offering. Whether they do it intentionally or not is not the issue. In my opinion, wine should not be a compromise and you should get what you pay for. Unfortunately this is sometimes not the case.

Many restaurants rely on big names to appeal to wine drinkers and with good reason. A majority of these big names have amassed good reputations throughout the years and continue to produce very good wines. However, for some of them, their reputation no longer is representative of what they produce.

Restaurateurs are sometimes guilty of romanticizing, being too business minded, being ignorant, or being lazy in terms of finding out the true quality of the wine they offer. This leg work and honest evaluation should be required prior to the two to three time mark-up of a bottle. We should have the assurance that the mark-up is justified.

The objective of this article is not to blast local restaurants or restaurateurs. Although they should look at their lists closely and ask themselves, “am I offering my patrons the best possible experience by offering this wine?” Rather, this article is meant to inform the public of wines that should be avoided (in my opinion), because their lack of quality does not justify the high prices they demand. The oddity in all of this is that the wines that prove to be the main culprits are on numerous lists around the Nashua area!

Here are some wines to avoid, due to overly inflated prices in return for generally mediocre quality.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars – All recent wines. Unfortunately this former giant still has a strong reputation in the general public. This is why you find their wines on many lists and this is why they still demand higher prices. Wine aficionados are aware that they have fallen-off heavily in the past decade. Their wines prior to this decade are still aging very well.

Duckhorn – Merlot. On rare occasion they have a good vintage. However, their variable quality does nothing to justify very high prices. Add to this that there are so many other options out there, why take the risk? Read about one of my Duckhorn experiences here.

Opus One – This wine demands far too much for the quality. Recently their vintages have improved, but if you are looking to shell out a week’s pay, you can do better. This is a better wine to purchase at a wine shop or liquor store and enjoy at home (that way you are only parting with a couple day’s pay). Do not pay the mark-up!

Joseph Drouhin – Burgundy Whites (trust me it makes sense). They make the list for typically being far too overpriced on wine lists. The quality is typically good, but for the price other whites are more appealing.

Michael & David Phillips – Almost all wines. They are very big in the area for some reason. Outside of their recent Petite Syrah (which was very enjoyable), I have been very underwhelmed by the wines they offer.

Here are some wines that I recommend which are readily available at local restaurants.

Justin – Isosceles. My favorite “higher-end” value wine out there. Personally, I would look for the 2005 or 2006. If you are going to get a prime-cut steak, pair this with your dinner! The best price locally: Giorgio’s in Milford & Bedford Village Inn (also available at C.R. Sparks, Michael Timothy’s & Unums).

Caymus – Napa Valley Cabernet. You almost never have to worry about quality with this wine. If you are questioning which wine to get and this is within your range, it will be a safe bet. Available at: Bedford Village Inn, Michael Timothy’s & Saffron Bistro.

Robert Stemmler – Pinot Noir. For the price, I feel they offer some of the better Pinot Noirs available in local restaurants. Available at: Bedford Village Inn, C.R. Sparks, Michael Timothy’s & Unums.

Conundrum – White Blend. This is a fruity and crisp, food friendly wine that is typically offered at a comfortable price. Best price locally: Bedford Village Inn (also available at C.R. Sparks).

Zinfandels – Red not white! Typically, Zinfandel offers some of the best values on a wine list. They are food friendly and pair well with any red meat, as well as grilled meatier fish, poultry, pork and vegetables. Personally, I would never pay more than $65 for a bottle of Zinfandel (even at a restaurant), because you can get great deals for less. Best deals locally: Seghesio Family at Bedford Village Inn & Rosenblum at C.R. Sparks.

I hope this helps you the next time you are looking at a wine list and thinking “is this bottle worth it?” Due to the economic situation, I chose to withhold the names of the restaurants that carry these poor wines. My ego does not permit me to believe that I would have an impact on a restaurant’s bottom line, but just in case.

My intent is to help you be informed and help you avoid wasting money. To strengthen this point, I urge you to do a little research if you plan on having a bottle while dining out. Look at their menu and wine list online. If there are a couple bottles you are interested in, run them through Cellar Tracker or Cork’d to learn what others thought. You would not buy a $60 pair of jeans or a $250 suit without trying them on first would you? Then why pay $60 to $250 (or higher) for a bottle of wine without knowing if they are any good?!

Do not forget that wine is all relative to your personal taste. However, a little information and guidance can go a long way in helping you avoid a poor wine experience. When it is all said and done, we want to have the best experience possible when dining-out at a nice restaurant.

Be educated when looking at a wine list!

When a wine list is more than a wine list!

A restaurant’s wine list say a lot about who they are, what their aspirations are, and what they think about you. This is very evident in locations that you will visit across the country. From Applebee’s, to The Cheesecake Factory, to Mario Batali’s Del Posto, you will find very different, yet appropriate, wine experiences that fit the atmosphere, cuisine, and crowd that typically dine at these establishments.

I bring up Batali’s Del Posto, because a good friend of mine recently dined there while taking a long weekend in NYC. Once he returned, he had a few questions for me regarding his wine experience at Del Posto.

"On a recent trip to NYC, I went out for a truly fine dining experience. After being seated I was greeted with a massive wine list. When I mean massive, I mean over 2,500 selections. How does a restaurant build and maintain such a large list, and is it necessary?"

This is a certainly a legitimate way to look at the situation. A wine list of this magnitude can be overwhelming to say the least. The answer to the first part of the question will be a bit wordy, so let me address the second part first.

Using my friend’s example, Del Posto is in the food and wine Mecca of the US. Day in and day out they go up against culinary giants such as Daniel, Jean Georges, Le Cirque, Tribeca Grill and countless others. Competition is fierce and there is a significant amount of prestige that is placed on an award winning wine list and the service that is provided by their resident sommelier(s). Having truly classic wines available is an appropriate necessity when you are dining on a truly classic meal! This is true not only for NYC, but anywhere a high level of importance is placed on quality.

Del Posto, as mentioned before, is one of many restaurants owned by Chef Mario Batali. Besides being an extremely successful restaurateur, he is also a partner in Italian Wine Merchants, which is a high-end wine shop that has a selection of Italian gems unlike any other I have come across. It is this passion for bringing together the complete dining experience that sets restaurants and restaurateurs, like Batali, apart. It is also what allows them to charge a premium for the experience that they provide, while maintaining a waiting list as long as Madison Avenue!

"How does a restaurant build and maintain such a large list?"

To build a wine list with the breadth and vision of Del Posto, locally based Left Bank at the Stonehedge Inn & Spa (Tyngsboro, MA) and Bedford Village Inn in (Bedford, NH) or any restaurant with a tremendous wine offering takes a very structured approach. Once the structure is in place, knowledgeable people are needed to implement the list, along with an owner(s) with exceptionally deep pockets.

Initially, the most important steps are to realistically assess your clientele, menu, storage space and budget. Not everyone can afford a bottle of a Bordeaux First-Growth, Chateau Petrus, Gaja Sori Tilden, or E. Guigal Ermitage Ex Voto, especially when marked-up to restaurant standards. This means that there must be a number of wines to bridge the gap between reasonably-priced wines and the classics.

The job of creating any wine list typically falls either to the owner, a wine director/sommelier, a consultant, or unfortunately in some cases, a distributor. Now a list that is of notable quality will probably not be developed solely by a distributor, so we will avoid speaking about them any further.

Depending on the size of a wine list, the owner, if truly knowledgeable, or a consultant can put into place something very special that will convey to the patrons that their experience is of the utmost importance. This takes a massive amount of time and effort, so unless you plan on doing all of the leg work, hire someone to do it for you. A good example of this is Unums in Nashua, NH. They have a modest wine list compared to Del Posto, but it is well thought out and looked over by the owners. A different example is Junipers at the Wildflower Inn located in Lyndonville, VT. The owners and management did not have the knowledge to put together a thoughtful and quality wine list. They decided to hire a consultant do so. It was rewarding to see them embrace what a thoughtful wine list could do, not only for their patrons, but for their restaurant.

Creating and maintaining a list such as the one at Left Bank at Stonehedge, which offers 2,000 selections (101,000 bottles in inventory), or Del Posto, which offers 2,300 selections (39,000 bottles in inventory) takes a team effort. The organization is typically led by a wine director and generally includes personnel working beneath them (i.e. assistant director and sommelier). The task is a daily exercise in taking inventory (thank goodness for computers), reordering, blind and regular tastings, negotiating, rotation, research, promotion, etc. It is a daunting task, but a task that is energetically undertaken, because wine professionals are exceptionally passionate about what they do.

Ultimately, a restaurateur’s goal is to create an experience that is positively unique and memorable. A strong wine list is essential in conveying the message of a restaurant to its patrons. If this is done effectively, the guests will leave happy and be more likely to return.

When a wine list is more than a wine list!

Unums: They totally get it!

As many of you know I have launched a business venture to try to improve the quality of restaurant wine offerings and service. The goal of Senel Wine Consulting is to help restaurants select quality wines at each price point to allow patrons to have an exceptional restaurant experience.

This past Saturday my wife and I had a chance to get out on a date night. We decided to go with somewhere which we have not been previously. We went to Unums in downtown Nashua and immediately I knew we made the right choice.

Co-owner Stephen Williams greeted us at the door with a handshake and escorted us to our table. From there on we had a terrific culinary experience. We decided on going with three appetizers instead of entrees so that we could sample some of Chef Brianas’ creations. With a line-up of fresh gnocchi & shrimp in a peanut sauce, a red pepper stuffed with mozzarella and sausage, and finished it off with baked brie & fruit plate how could we go wrong?! FYI – the portions were very generous!

We accompanied our meal with a bottle of 2005 Robert Stemmler Nugent Vineyard Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley. It was a very fragrant Pinot and went well with all three dishes. It had a smoked cherry nose and led to cherry and an earthy/smoky note on the palate. The tannins were mellowed out by the meal. It was elegant and complex with a very nice balance and pleasant finish. It is almost up there with the Domaine Drouhin, however the Drouhin inches it out in terms of finesse and complexity. Still a terrific wine! However, on its’ own merit I am scoring this a solid 91.

For dessert we enjoyed a glass of 1999 Felsina Vin Santo from the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany. This was a very interesting wine due to the fact that it had such strong cognac features, yet once I had a chance to look it up (although the information was minimal) it does not seem to be fortified. Hence the nose was of very rich butterscotch similar to cognac. The palate however was very appealing with a lot of fleshy fruit and some honey going on, with the most memorable of the fruits being apricot. This is certainly a slow sipping wine and very fun to try on special occasions. I am by no means a dessert wine expert, however I found the butterscotch scent to be somewhat overpowering. Overall, I would score this wine an 89. It was very well crafted, but my aversion to cognac may have swayed the score slightly lower (don’t forget, every person’s preferences are different!).

Back to Unums!

Stephen and our waitress, Kira, were exceptionally gracious and attentive, yet not overbearing in the slightest. We were there for about three hours and it truly felt like they enjoyed us hanging around. Stephen and I had a chance to talk about the wine offering and also recommended some of his preferred wines. He also shared with me his ambitious endeavor to further improve the wine list and attempt to obtain Wine Spectator recognition. Considering his passion for enhancing his patrons’ experiences and love for well-crafted wine I believe he will certainly obtain this.

The owner, staff, atmosphere, food and drinks, brilliant! In the past I believed that Michael Timothy’s offered the best total dining experience in Southern NH. In my opinion they better stay on their game, because I can definitively say that Unums proudly rivals any New Hampshire establishment for culinary supremacy!

Unums: They totally get it!