Thanksgiving recommendations from the experts

As published in the 11/18 issue of the Nashua Telegraph (click here to view Telegraph version).

Wine to me is passion. It’s family and friends. It’s warmth of heart and generosity of spirit.

When I think about these words uttered by the late Robert Mondavi, I cannot help but imagine him speaking about the many occasions that took place during his life in which he shared what he referred to as “the gracious life.” In many ways, I feel that all of us share in the gracious life on one day in particular, Thanksgiving.

Thanksgiving is a day unlike any other during the year. It symbolizes something that is so simplistically beautiful and humbling – being thankful. Next Thursday, families will converge on dining room tables all over the country. Little kids at one end, adults at the other, but all joined together as a family. The traditions will vary from region to region, and the spread will include a variety of dishes from the traditional turkey and mashed potatoes, to lasagna, to baked macaroni and cheese. No matter what is on the table, the attention is squarely on the meal and togetherness that this wonderful day promotes.

However, there are some conundrums that may arise. A common point of inquiry surrounds wine. The typical question of “What wine pairs well with Thanksgiving dinner?” will inevitably come up numerous times. There are many possible answers; nevertheless, there are variables to consider first: What is the main element of the side dishes? Are there any harsh flavor components? How is the turkey prepared? Who are my guests, and what do they like?

Now, I could be very general and say that Oregon pinot noir goes well with turkey with cranberry sauce, or that a Gewurztraminer from Alsace would go well with a mushroom and herb stuffing, but I think you all deserve more than that. Thus, I have enlisted the help of a team of experts from the culinary and wine worlds to assist me in this task. I have posed to them this simple question: What is your favorite traditional family dish served on Thanksgiving, and which wine would you pair with it?

When approaching the recommendations, one thing to consider is why these pairings work. Here are a few simple rules to help you along:

• Choose a wine you enjoy.

• It is generally safe to pair hearty dishes with hearty wines and conversely lighter dishes with lighter wines.

• Pay attention to the accompaniments of the dish. Some wines may go well with turkey and mashed potatoes, but not the brussels sprouts or horseradish being served with them.

• Don’t stress about it; wine is meant to elevate, not tear down. You are with loved ones who will likely appreciate your effort.

However, if you have an aunt, uncle or hotshot cousin who is truly into wine and would look down on you if you served Two Buck Chuck, let’s hear what the pros have to say to help you to avoid such a disaster:

Appetizers

• Constantine Brianas, executive chef and co-owner of Unums in Nashua, NH: “Buttered Gnocchi with Toasted Ginger, Simple Pumpkin and Colossal Shrimp is not only a dish that we serve at the restaurant, but also one that I serve during Thanksgiving. The combination of the fresh made gnocchi with the pumpkin puree has an autumn feel that is undeniable and sets the stage for the rest of the meal.”

Brianas’ perfect pairing: 2007 Truchard Chardonnay from Carneros, Calif.

• Merry Edwards, trailblazing winemaker/owner of Merry Edwards Wines in California: "One of my favorite recipes during Thanksgiving is Connie’s Hot Crab Dip. It is made with Dungeness crab and is a dish that was one of my dear friend’s late mother’s and one which we continue to enjoy today."

Edwards’ perfect pairing: 2007 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley pinot noir from California.

Main course/sides

• Jon Carnevale, sommelier and general manager of the Bedford Village Inn in Bedford, NH: “Occasionally, we go with an alternative to the traditional stuffed turkey. One of our favorites is Wild Rice and Chestnut Stuffed Game Hen. It is an incredibly aromatic dish from beginning to end, with the thyme and sage announcing the main courses arrival.”

Carnevale’s perfect pairing: 1997 Domaine des Comtes Lafon “Clos de la Barre,” Meursault from France or 2006 Lemelson “Thea’s Selection” pinot noir from Willamatte Valley, Ore.

• Karen and Stephen Williams, wine loving co-owners of Unums: “Typically, we brine our turkey overnight and then fill it with an amazing Leek and Wild Mushroom Stuffing. The stuffing is a combination of porcini, shiitake and button mushrooms, along with crumbled French baguette, thyme and fresh leeks. On the side, we do a mashed potato with roasted garlic and freshly grated horseradish.

The Williamses’ perfect pairing: 2005 Krupp Brothers Black Bart Marsanne from Napa Valley.

• Jason Berkman, executive chef at Legal Sea Foods in Burlington, Mass.: "Ever since I became a chef, I have had to step it up in the kitchen at home during the holidays. Besides the traditional Thanksgiving fare, one of my favorite side dishes is Applewood Bacon Braised Kale. It is quite the crowd pleaser."

Berkman’s perfect pairing: 2006 Domaine Drouhin pinot noir from Willamette Valley, Ore.

Dessert

• I couldn’t let the column end without dessert! Luckily for us, my grandmother (Dolores Peck) makes a scrumptious traditional cheesecake. Grandma’s Cheesecake is nothing flashy, just Philadelphia and a lot of love. Typically, dessert is paired with coffee or tea, but if you want a truly memorable dessert experience, Sauternes or Tokaji will bring this to the next level.

My perfect pairing: 2005 Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttanyos Red Label from Hungary.

I would like to thank our experts for their thoughtful recommendations. Hopefully, their suggestions will assist you when putting together some terrific pairings of your own this Thanksgiving.

From our families to yours, have a safe and happy Thanksgiving!


Editor's Note: Recipes for the dishes mentioned in this article will be posted one at a time daily beginning tomorrow.

Thanksgiving recommendations from the experts

Date Night: Corks

As published in the 11/3 issue of the Nashua Telegraph (click here to view Telegraph version).

For the second installment of the "Date Night" series, I thought it would be worthwhile to venture to one of Wine Spectator's Best of Award of Excellence restaurants.

Since there are only two restaurants in the state to receive this distinction and only one in southern New Hampshire, that narrowed down my choices. Bedford Village Inn got the nod. However, the part of the inn we visited is not your mom and pop's Inn. It was the chic Corks Wine Bar, which opened last November.

I had a chance to speak with BVI's general manager and sommelier Jon Carnevale about the creation of Corks. The concept emerged from a discussion surrounding what to do with a seldom used dining room. Considering the reputation it had for being the vanguard of fine wine and dining in New Hampshire, the choice to open a wine bar should be of little surprise.

When my wife and I first walked in, we were very drawn in by the surroundings. The austerity of BVI's fine dining area melted away. The room we were standing in was stylistically unique. Corks is superbly designed to feel like a room created for a memorable wine experience. The comfortable chairs and intimate seating arrangement are perfect for a romantic night out - so much so that we witnessed a couple getting engaged. The wallpaper is made from pressed cork and bottles are beautifully displayed throughout the room. Another unique element is the artwork of acclaimed artist Gerard Puvis displayed throughout. His pieces are unique as they are created using the foil wraps from wine bottles. Impressive is a very accurate description.

With all of this lauding of the atmosphere, how was the most important part of the evening?

After being seated in a quiet corner, my wife and I took the economical approach, with a few glasses of wine, an appetizer and dinner. The menus, both for wine and food, are geared toward having a very different experience; you are able to select from their tavern and fine dining menus, as well. Chef Peter Agostrinelli's menu for Corks has more of a tapas feel and offered items that were distinctive and comfortably priced. We selected the chorizo lollipops and the fried olives stuffed with sausage and fontina as starters. The lollipops were good, but they were outshone by the wonderful olives, which we could have eaten all night. For our main course, we opted for the kobe beef burgers with homemade tots, which was one of the better burgers I have had lately. Price altogether for food: $28!

Wait, is this really the Bedford Village Inn?

The common misconception is that BVI is expensive. The truth is that most menu items are in line with most of the nicer area restaurants and its wine markups are far less! I believe the misconception arises from the fact that BVI inspires you to indulge and embrace the experience it creates. The reality is that any restaurant will be as expensive, or inexpensive as you make it.

Due to the reasonably priced food menu, we were able to enjoy their wine list a little more liberally. However, before getting too far into its wine list, I want to make sure that all the beer drinkers out there know that Corks offers a very nice selection of brews on tap and by the bottle. It also offers a beer flight, which I explained in the past is a way to sample a few different offerings that are deliberately paired together.

OK, back to the wine.

Corks has at its disposal the full breadth of BVI's award-wining wine list of more than 700 different wines. A list of this size could be a bit daunting, but don't be overwhelmed, as they made it approachable for us all. The Corks wine list has been condensed and is broken down into two parts, the Corks Cruvinet Selections, which offers the "best of the best" by the glass and a standard "by the glass" list. Each wine is offered in a 2- or 3-ounce tasting pour, a standard glass or by the bottle - it all depends on what you wish to spend. If you are looking for structured variety, there are numerous wine flights offered, each with a distinctive theme.

With this being said, my wife decided to go with a flight of sparkling wine with different liquors. I, on the other hand, jumped into the Cruvinet Selections like a fat kid on cake.

To keep things reasonable, I went with a 2-ounce pour of three different wines. My favorites of the three were the 2007 DuMOL Pinot Noir from Sonoma, which shone of crisp cherry and plum on the nose with sour cherry, plum and some spice on the palate. This was easily a 92-point wine and a tremendous way to start. The other was a 2005 Shafer One Point Five Cabernet from Napa, which was such a refined and elegant cabernet with rich blackberry and currant along with nice minerality and super refined tannins. The Shafer was one of the better Napa Cabs I have had lately, at 93 points. Besides these two, there were another 10 or so on the Cruvinet portion of the list. Carnevale mentioned that they are normally rotated every week.

The reason I speak so highly of the Cruvinet Selections is because it is almost wholly unique to this area. The normal wines by the glass offered in restaurants typically range from $8-$25 wholesale, whereas the wines offered on this list retail range from $50 or more. To me, that provides a level of quality experience that is worth mentioning and a level of sacrifice and investment by the owners for the benefit of their patrons.

The aforementioned wines and food are one part of the consumer-friendly, unique and quality-laden experience offered at Corks. The waitstaff was knowledgeable and friendly (thank you, Meagan), and Carnevale was extremely generous with his time and knowledge. As he mentioned to me, "I love to take time with those who love wine." What more can someone who loves wine ask for? I would highly recommend Corks for your date and hope you share a similar experience.

Corks Wine Bar is at 2 Village Inn Lane in Bedford. For more information, call 472-2001 or visit http://www.bedfordvillageinn.com/.

Date Night: Corks

Date Night: Unums

As published in the 10/7 edition of the Nashua Telegraph (click link to view Telegraph version).

Like most married couples with children, my wife and I have date nights that allow us to have time for each other without the rigors of bringing along the family. This past week, we decided to take our date night to Unums.

We selected Unums because of their Wine Down Wednesday program. On Wednesdays, they open five different bottles of wine, which are normally only available by the bottle, and offer them by the glass. It is a nice way to try normally more expensive bottles without paying top dollar. They also offer a flight of these wines. Wine flights are becoming a more common, and welcomed, addition to restaurant wine experiences. A flight involves a few different wines that are served as a group in tasting portions (usually 2-3 ounce pours), to allow you to try a number of different types of wines without paying full glass prices.

We decided on a wine flight to accompany our array of appetizers. Unums has a continuously rotating menu, which allows co-owner and chef Constantine Brianas to show off his culinary repertoire. The dishes selected were the Unums Tart, Pork Medallions, and the Wild Mushroom and Spinach Gnocchi. Chef Brianas’ creations were a delicious accompaniment to our wines and his well-developed dishes, especially the Unums Tart, energized our taste buds.

The wines that were selected for the flight by co-owner and passionate wine lover, Stephen Williams, offered a delightful assortment of diverse varietals:

The Bodegas Agnusdei (Albariño), from the Rias Baixes region in northwest Spain, was a very light, crisp and smooth way to start off the tasting. For those not familiar with Albariño, it is somewhat similar to Pinot Grigio in taste. This wine had a very nice amount of pear and pineapple in the aroma and also on the palate. I give this refreshing wine an 88 point rating.

To continue our progress from light to heavy, we had the Villa Di Corlo Giaco (Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Merlot) from Italy, which offered a nice transition into the reds. The aroma of smoked cherry was mirrored on the palate, along with the typical dark berries imparted by the Cabernet/Merlot blending. The unique element in this wine was the subtle hint of eucalyptus (yes, the same leafy greens that koalas enjoy). Although the finish was somewhat short, this was a lovely wine. I rate this at 88 points as well, as it was a very good wine.

Staying in Italy, we partook in a Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva (Sangiovese) as the third tasting. It was a dry wine with blackberry on the palate and nose. Its tannins offered a little spike, which allowed it to stand up to the food we were eating. The Felsina was a very agreeable wine. I give this an 89 point rating.

The next wine was my favorite of the flight, a Michael & David Phillips Petite (Petite Sirah). Personally, I like my wines bold with a nice level of complexity. This Petite Sirah offered both characteristics. The aroma and taste shared notes of blackberry and currants. However, it was the familiar taste of cigar that made this wine memorable. Some slight peppery notes, which my wife accurately pointed out, rounded out this very good wine. It is deserving of a 90 point rating.

The final tasting in the flight was the Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Artemis (Cabernet Sauvignon). This was a pleasant wine to drink and it offered a very good amount of well developed blackberry and currant. It had a nice medium to medium-heavy body. I would give this wine 87 points because it was one dimensional, yet essentially pleasant. I am a huge fan of Stag’s Leap’s slightly older vintages (2000 and earlier), but recently I feel they have fallen from great to good. Again, this is all personal preference and my wife certainly enjoyed this wine.

Overall, Unums provided a wonderful escape from reality for a few hours. Stephen and Walter, our waiter, were very gracious with their knowledge and caring conversation. I would highly recommend Unums for your date night and hope you share a similar experience.

Information about Unums
Location: 47 E. Pearl St, Nashua
Phone: 603.621.6500
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 5:00-Close
www.unums.com

About Wine Ratings
95-100 Classic: A Phenomenal Wine!
90-94 Outstanding: A wine of excellent character and style
85-89 Very Good: A wine with some special qualities
83-84 Good: A solid well-made wine
< 83 Why bother?

Date Night: Unums

Welcome to my wine world!

As published on 9/23 in the Nashua Telegraph (click link to view Telegraph version).

When I first proposed writing a wine column to the Telegraph, I did so for a few reasons.

First, as a restaurant/personal wine consultant, I hold a firm belief that wine has a way of elevating life's special moments. This belief may sound overly romanticized, but hear me out.

Have you ever had people over for dinner, or gone out to dinner with someone special or a group of friends? Of course you have. Now have you noticed how those same occasions are noticeably different when a nice bottle of wine is served?

Catch my drift?

Wine has special qualities that elevate a family meal into a feast or a chat around the table into a brainstorming session about fulfilling your dreams.

The second reason is to counteract what I have experienced from the beginning of my own wine journey. Wine has been the object of some very pretentious people who make it far too complicated. My goal is to show you that wine is simply wine – and it is meant to be enjoyed by all. The appropriate level of involvement is up to you. Never let anyone who thinks he or she knows more about wine make you feel inferior for not knowing!

Finally, there are truly special things going on in our neck of the woods regarding wine. My intent is to introduce, or re-introduce, you to local wine-related gems and review some of the restaurant wine experiences available in the area. No need to worry, restaurateurs! (Well, no need to worry if you offer a good experience for your patrons.) I will also be sharing my perspective on goings-on in the wine world, including some delicious and not-so-delicious reviews of readily available wines. I will also be offering practical advice for those who appreciate and/or collect wine.

Let me begin by offering the review of a wonderful wine that I recently enjoyed: 2006 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $44.

Domaine Drouhin has a very rich background. It is the product of the expansion of French wine houses into the new world. Maison Joseph Drouhin, of Beaune, France, had been producing celebrated pinot noir since the 1880s. In 1987, it sought to pursue its own expansion when it purchased 225 acres of what was then a Christmas-tree farm.

The 2006 Domaine Drouhin is one of my favorite pinot noirs. The aroma is of beautiful rich cherry that is mirrored on the palate along with a hint of spice. The tannins are noticeable; however, they are well integrated and somewhat delicate. This is a very thoughtfully made, well-crafted wine that is confident in structure and complexity. It is very much a Burgundy-styled Pinot Noir.

Wine ratings issued by a reputable publication serve as a barometer of the quality. As you will find out, I don't normally fall in line with the Wine Spectator reviews a majority of the time. I feel they are tightwads in some instances, but then again, it is only one person's rating/analysis. WS gave it a 90 for the 2006 vintage, and I almost feel slighted for them! This wine is very comfortably a 92 pointer – 90-94 points indicate a great wine – and I think this will only get better with time. Wine & Spirits gave the DD a 93. I think this illustrates that ratings are highly personal! I hope you have a chance to enjoy this terrific wine.

All of the wines featured in ongoing reviews are readily available at the New Hampshire Liquor Store off Exit 6 behind the Nashua Mall.

Until next time, cheers!

Welcome to my wine world!

A Glass Half Full

Today, the Nashua Telegraph announced the launch of my bi-weekly wine column A Glass Half Full. It was announced both in print and on the web in the Feast section. You can view today's announcement entitled New Wine Columnist to Debut by clicking the link.

Mark it on your calendars, my first column will run on Wednesday, September 23rd and will be an introduction of things to come.

Thank you for your continued support!

A Glass Half Full