Thanksgiving Recipe and Wine Pairing - Chef Berkman's Applewood Bacon Braised Kale

Over the past few years, I have gotten to know Legal Sea Foods' Executive Chef Jason Berkman the person. He's a great friend now and shares an affinity for many of the same things that I enjoy, namely good food, cigars and most importantly, wine. However, it was during this past year that I was exposed to his culinary prowess.

Back in August, a group of us took part in a wine dinner in which I selected the wines and Berkie collaborated on the menu (with Chris Baker). It was something to see how the meals came together and the precision in which they were prepared. After an event like this, it is hard not to have even more respect for the talent that good chefs possess.

Like Merry Edwards and John Carnevale, I thought that Chef Berkman would bring a unique element to the Thanksgiving project that I was putting together. I asked him to pick one of his favorite sides to share with us. He picked a kale dish which delighted me, as it is a vegetable that is dramatically underused, but extremely delicious and packed with vitamins. Also, with the gnocchi, crab dip and eventually cheesecake, we finally have something healthy! He also stressed the importance of buying local produce if possible. It will not only ensure freshness and regional identity, but it also supports local farmers. This last point is something that Chef Berkman and Legal Sea Foods aims to do with their menu items whenever feasible.

Applewood Bacon Braised Kale

(Serves 4)

Ingredients:
8 heads of kale
2 large onions (approx 1 1/2 lbs)
1/3 lb of applewood smoked bacon
1 tbsp. chopped garlic
2 cups of chicken stock
1 tspn. kosher salt

Step 1
Remove the ribs of the kale from the green leafy portion. Discard the ribs and cut the green leafy portion into 1 1/2" strips, lightly wash and then steam them for 5 minutes.

Step 2
Dice the bacon into 1" pieces and render it in a medium sized pot with salt on medium heat.

Step 3
Add garlic to the pot with bacon, when the garlic starts to show signs of toasting, add the onions and continue cooking until onions are translucent (caramelized).

Step 4
Add the steamed greens to the bacon mixture and mix well. Increase heat to high.

Step 5
Add 1 cup of stock to the mixture and continue stirring until stock begins to reduce (about 10 minutes). Add the remaining cup of stock to the mixture and continue stirring and cooking for another 10 minutes until the most of the stock has cooked down. Remove from heat and serve.

Perfect Pairing
2006 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Willamette, Oregon - $44

The 2006 Domaine Drouhin is one of Berkie (and my) favorite pinot noirs. The aroma is of beautiful rich cherry that is mirrored on the palate along with a hint of spice. The tannins are noticeable; however, they are well integrated and somewhat delicate. This is a very thoughtfully made, well-crafted wine that is confident in structure and complexity. It is very much a terrific Thanksgiving pinot noir.

When you think about versatile Thanksgiving wine pairings, pinot noir should almost always be one of your first thoughts. The berries, spice, herbs and vibrant acidity that are common characteristics of good pinot make it a tremendously food friendly wine.

Enjoy!

Thanksgiving Recipe and Wine Pairing - Chef Berkman's Applewood Bacon Braised Kale

Thanksgiving recommendations from the experts

As published in the 11/18 issue of the Nashua Telegraph (click here to view Telegraph version).

Wine to me is passion. It’s family and friends. It’s warmth of heart and generosity of spirit.

When I think about these words uttered by the late Robert Mondavi, I cannot help but imagine him speaking about the many occasions that took place during his life in which he shared what he referred to as “the gracious life.” In many ways, I feel that all of us share in the gracious life on one day in particular, Thanksgiving.

Thanksgiving is a day unlike any other during the year. It symbolizes something that is so simplistically beautiful and humbling – being thankful. Next Thursday, families will converge on dining room tables all over the country. Little kids at one end, adults at the other, but all joined together as a family. The traditions will vary from region to region, and the spread will include a variety of dishes from the traditional turkey and mashed potatoes, to lasagna, to baked macaroni and cheese. No matter what is on the table, the attention is squarely on the meal and togetherness that this wonderful day promotes.

However, there are some conundrums that may arise. A common point of inquiry surrounds wine. The typical question of “What wine pairs well with Thanksgiving dinner?” will inevitably come up numerous times. There are many possible answers; nevertheless, there are variables to consider first: What is the main element of the side dishes? Are there any harsh flavor components? How is the turkey prepared? Who are my guests, and what do they like?

Now, I could be very general and say that Oregon pinot noir goes well with turkey with cranberry sauce, or that a Gewurztraminer from Alsace would go well with a mushroom and herb stuffing, but I think you all deserve more than that. Thus, I have enlisted the help of a team of experts from the culinary and wine worlds to assist me in this task. I have posed to them this simple question: What is your favorite traditional family dish served on Thanksgiving, and which wine would you pair with it?

When approaching the recommendations, one thing to consider is why these pairings work. Here are a few simple rules to help you along:

• Choose a wine you enjoy.

• It is generally safe to pair hearty dishes with hearty wines and conversely lighter dishes with lighter wines.

• Pay attention to the accompaniments of the dish. Some wines may go well with turkey and mashed potatoes, but not the brussels sprouts or horseradish being served with them.

• Don’t stress about it; wine is meant to elevate, not tear down. You are with loved ones who will likely appreciate your effort.

However, if you have an aunt, uncle or hotshot cousin who is truly into wine and would look down on you if you served Two Buck Chuck, let’s hear what the pros have to say to help you to avoid such a disaster:

Appetizers

• Constantine Brianas, executive chef and co-owner of Unums in Nashua, NH: “Buttered Gnocchi with Toasted Ginger, Simple Pumpkin and Colossal Shrimp is not only a dish that we serve at the restaurant, but also one that I serve during Thanksgiving. The combination of the fresh made gnocchi with the pumpkin puree has an autumn feel that is undeniable and sets the stage for the rest of the meal.”

Brianas’ perfect pairing: 2007 Truchard Chardonnay from Carneros, Calif.

• Merry Edwards, trailblazing winemaker/owner of Merry Edwards Wines in California: "One of my favorite recipes during Thanksgiving is Connie’s Hot Crab Dip. It is made with Dungeness crab and is a dish that was one of my dear friend’s late mother’s and one which we continue to enjoy today."

Edwards’ perfect pairing: 2007 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley pinot noir from California.

Main course/sides

• Jon Carnevale, sommelier and general manager of the Bedford Village Inn in Bedford, NH: “Occasionally, we go with an alternative to the traditional stuffed turkey. One of our favorites is Wild Rice and Chestnut Stuffed Game Hen. It is an incredibly aromatic dish from beginning to end, with the thyme and sage announcing the main courses arrival.”

Carnevale’s perfect pairing: 1997 Domaine des Comtes Lafon “Clos de la Barre,” Meursault from France or 2006 Lemelson “Thea’s Selection” pinot noir from Willamatte Valley, Ore.

• Karen and Stephen Williams, wine loving co-owners of Unums: “Typically, we brine our turkey overnight and then fill it with an amazing Leek and Wild Mushroom Stuffing. The stuffing is a combination of porcini, shiitake and button mushrooms, along with crumbled French baguette, thyme and fresh leeks. On the side, we do a mashed potato with roasted garlic and freshly grated horseradish.

The Williamses’ perfect pairing: 2005 Krupp Brothers Black Bart Marsanne from Napa Valley.

• Jason Berkman, executive chef at Legal Sea Foods in Burlington, Mass.: "Ever since I became a chef, I have had to step it up in the kitchen at home during the holidays. Besides the traditional Thanksgiving fare, one of my favorite side dishes is Applewood Bacon Braised Kale. It is quite the crowd pleaser."

Berkman’s perfect pairing: 2006 Domaine Drouhin pinot noir from Willamette Valley, Ore.

Dessert

• I couldn’t let the column end without dessert! Luckily for us, my grandmother (Dolores Peck) makes a scrumptious traditional cheesecake. Grandma’s Cheesecake is nothing flashy, just Philadelphia and a lot of love. Typically, dessert is paired with coffee or tea, but if you want a truly memorable dessert experience, Sauternes or Tokaji will bring this to the next level.

My perfect pairing: 2005 Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttanyos Red Label from Hungary.

I would like to thank our experts for their thoughtful recommendations. Hopefully, their suggestions will assist you when putting together some terrific pairings of your own this Thanksgiving.

From our families to yours, have a safe and happy Thanksgiving!


Editor's Note: Recipes for the dishes mentioned in this article will be posted one at a time daily beginning tomorrow.

Thanksgiving recommendations from the experts

What a night, what a meal!

A group of us got together this past Saturday for an incredible night of food, wine and camaraderie. A couple months ago I proposed having a wine dinner, during which the meals prepared would be pared with a wine to show each other off. I have been doing these Wine Extravaganza dinners with some other friends and was hoping to show how this concept really makes for a special evening with this group.

As a group, we are truly lucky (in terms of culinary experience) to have a chef and a truly gifted cook. You add these two knowledge-bases together and it is a recipe for something memorable. The wines were certainly showcased, but the dishes were equal in imagination and flavor.

The menu was the result of two very talented chefs. Jason Berkman (pictured to the right, executive chef at Legal Sea Foods, Burlington) and Chris Baker were the ones responsible for creating the dishes that paired with the wines I selected.

The result was nothing less then extraordinary. We had great food, great wine, great conversation and to cap it off, a great cigar.

Below is the menu with wine pairings (with tasting notes and ratings). If you have a chance, you must try a couple of these dishes and/or wines!

Maine Oysters
Jalapeno Relish, Lemony Cucumbers, Watermelon Gazpacho

NV, Nicolas Feuillate, Brut Rose Champagne
Epernay, France
- Perfect clarity with watermelon juice color. On the nose there was a healthy amount of strawberry and raspberry with faint yeast. The palate was of super dry strawberry and raspberry with a nice pomegranate aftertaste. Terrific acidity and very well-balanced. ES - 90

Salmon Confit
Creamed Leek and Cannellini Ragout, Fennel Salad

2008, Nobilo Icon, Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, New Zealand
- Wonderfully young straw/greenish hue. Nose shouted pineapple, green apple, and grapefruit. The palate was lively and crisp again showing pineapple, green apple, and grapefruit with some nice minerality at the later middle palate. Terrific acidity and balance paired the salmon perfectly. ES - 93

Spiced Rack of Lamb
Fingerling and Avocado Mash, “Bounty” Rum Compote

2006, Domaine Drouhin, Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, Oregon
- Nicely concentrated purple hue. Nose and palate of complex black cherry with hints of oak and the palate continued with a slight trace violet. Very well-structured, nicely complex and elegant. ES - 94

Braised Beef Short Ribs
Oven Roasted Sweet Beets, Charred Belgian Endive, Crispy Onion

2005, Justin Isosceles, Meritage
Paso Robles, California
- Star wine of the night and I am not surprised. It was extremely dark purple, almost black in concentration. The nose was of blackberry, black pepper and oak. The palate was intense and rich, offering blackberry, currants, leather and smoke. The tannins were wonderfully supple. Overall this wine offered a lot of flair and panache. The Braised Short Ribs could not have been a better pairing! Decanted for an hour. ES - 95

Chocolate and Caramel Peach
Vanilla Ice Cream

1999, Chateau Pajzos Aszu 5 Puttanyos, Tokaji
Hungary
- Very surprising and delicious. This wine had a brilliant golden hue. The nose was of honey and apricot which were mirrored on the palate along with some caramel. It had a beautifully viscosity and was sweet, rich with intensity, balance and character. ES - 94

What a night, what a meal!

A terrific Merlot from Napa…No Way?!

Over the years I have become more and more aware of, and slightly cynical towards, Napa's propensity to overlook an exceptionally important varietal, Merlot. If you look at Napa's Merlot focus, there are only a few handfuls of wineries that take pride in producing outstanding Merlot. It has been some time since I have come across a truly exceptional bottle of Napa Merlot in the moderate to moderately-expensive price range (sometimes you have to bite the bullet and spend a little more then normal to get what you desire).

Back in the spring, while in Cleveland visiting family, my cousin Bob (from "A Cautionary Tale") graciously opened a number of bottles for me. During one of the evenings, he opened a bottle of Plumpjack Merlot. I remember it distinctly due to the name and surprising qualities it put forward. It was because of this experience that I jumped at the chance to include it on Junipers at the Wildflower Inn's wine list.

Last evening I had the chance to partake in another bottle of Plumpjack Merlot, this time with Jason Berkman, the Executive Chef of Legal Sea Foods in Burlington, MA. It again lived up to its reputation and delivered the best Merlot experience I have had in what seems like an eternity!

2006, Plumpjack, Merlot, Napa, California - $53
From the initial sniff, there was something unique going on in the glass. The aroma of black cherry is a typical characteristic of Merlot. However, this rich black cherry was very reminiscent of the nose of a terrific Zinfandel. The aroma is not where the similarities end. On the palate there was a nice harmony between the cherry and red currant that melded into a terrific Zinfandel-esque jamminess! This was followed by pleasant hints of spice leading to some muscular, yet ripe tannins. The finish was truly amazing, lingering for many minutes! This was everything that I love about Merlot.

To put it simply, this was a Barry Sanders type of wine: terrific balance, finesse, power, and grace. I guess that would be my unorthodox way of describing the 2006 Plumpjack Merlot.

Wine Spectator gave this a 91 pt rating which is very accurate. I upped them to a 92 due to the fact that this wine solidly realized its potential as great!

A terrific Merlot from Napa…No Way?!