7 Reds & 7 Whites for the Holidays

This will be my last post until I return from Ohio following Thanksgiving (either 11/30 or 12/1). I hope you enjoy!

This past week I ran a column in the Nashua Telegraph (Thanksgiving recommendations from the experts) that paired terrific Thanksgiving inspired recipes with their perfect wine pairings. The contributions came from a panel of truly creative and talented chefs, restaurant owners, a sommelier and even a trailblazing winemaker.

The final installment of my Thanksgiving recommendations is straight forward. I wish to simply put forth a list of 7 red wines and 7 white wines that can't miss when paired with traditional Thanksgiving fare. The price range for these wines varies greatly, however, I have gone through great lengths to find values at every price level. The way I look at it, if you are having a special meal, offer special wines to accompany it!

As I mentioned in the article, there are a few simple rules to remember when pairing food and wine:

• Choose a wine you enjoy.

• It is generally safe to pair hearty dishes with hearty wines and conversely lighter dishes with lighter wines.

• Pay attention to the accompaniments of the dish. Some wines may go well with turkey and mashed potatoes, but not the brussels sprouts or horseradish being served with them.

• Don’t stress about it; wine is meant to elevate, not tear down. You are with loved ones who will likely appreciate your effort.

With that being said, here are the wines. They have been selected with equal parts quality and food-friendliness taken into account. Also, all of these wines are well stocked at the NH Liquor Store off Exit 6 behind the Nashua Mall, as well as many other locations.

The Whites (pictured above)

- 2008 Kris, Pinot Grigio, Delle Venezie, Italy - $11.99 (reg. $14.99)

- 2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica, Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington - $16.99 (reg. $20.99)**

- 2007 Benton Lane, Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $18.99

- 2008 Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand - $21.49**

- 2007 Joseph Drouhin, Chablis, Beaune, France - $21.99 (reg. $23.99)

- 2006 Mer Soleil, Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands, California - $36.99

- NV Moët et Chandon Nectar Imperial, Champagne, Epernay, France - $38.99

The Reds (pictured above)

- 2007 Chateau Pesquie Terrasses, Rhone Blend, Cotes du Ventoux, France - $10.99 (reg. $12.99)

- 2008 Chalone, Pinot Noir, Monterey, California - $12.99 (reg. $15.99)

- 2005 Castano Solanera, Mourvèdre and Cabernet Sauvignon, Yecla, Spain - $13.99

- 2004 Antinori Villa Toscana, Cabernet Blend, Tuscany, Italy - $21.99

- 2008 Seghesio, Zinfandel, Sonoma, California - $22.99**

- 2007 Benton Lane, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $25.99

- 2007 Domaine Drouhin, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $43.99**

I know that it is cliche to say "life is too short to drink bad wine", but it is true. There are a tremendous amount of wines out there that are crafted by winemakers whose sole intention is to share their artistry with you. The wines above are a good introduction to food-friendly wines that are crafted with love. This Thanksgiving I ask you to invite them into your homes to help enhance your memorable Thanksgiving dinners!

** indicates my top 2 picks per category

7 Reds & 7 Whites for the Holidays

Thanksgiving Recipe and Wine Pairing - Chef Berkman's Applewood Bacon Braised Kale

Over the past few years, I have gotten to know Legal Sea Foods' Executive Chef Jason Berkman the person. He's a great friend now and shares an affinity for many of the same things that I enjoy, namely good food, cigars and most importantly, wine. However, it was during this past year that I was exposed to his culinary prowess.

Back in August, a group of us took part in a wine dinner in which I selected the wines and Berkie collaborated on the menu (with Chris Baker). It was something to see how the meals came together and the precision in which they were prepared. After an event like this, it is hard not to have even more respect for the talent that good chefs possess.

Like Merry Edwards and John Carnevale, I thought that Chef Berkman would bring a unique element to the Thanksgiving project that I was putting together. I asked him to pick one of his favorite sides to share with us. He picked a kale dish which delighted me, as it is a vegetable that is dramatically underused, but extremely delicious and packed with vitamins. Also, with the gnocchi, crab dip and eventually cheesecake, we finally have something healthy! He also stressed the importance of buying local produce if possible. It will not only ensure freshness and regional identity, but it also supports local farmers. This last point is something that Chef Berkman and Legal Sea Foods aims to do with their menu items whenever feasible.

Applewood Bacon Braised Kale

(Serves 4)

Ingredients:
8 heads of kale
2 large onions (approx 1 1/2 lbs)
1/3 lb of applewood smoked bacon
1 tbsp. chopped garlic
2 cups of chicken stock
1 tspn. kosher salt

Step 1
Remove the ribs of the kale from the green leafy portion. Discard the ribs and cut the green leafy portion into 1 1/2" strips, lightly wash and then steam them for 5 minutes.

Step 2
Dice the bacon into 1" pieces and render it in a medium sized pot with salt on medium heat.

Step 3
Add garlic to the pot with bacon, when the garlic starts to show signs of toasting, add the onions and continue cooking until onions are translucent (caramelized).

Step 4
Add the steamed greens to the bacon mixture and mix well. Increase heat to high.

Step 5
Add 1 cup of stock to the mixture and continue stirring until stock begins to reduce (about 10 minutes). Add the remaining cup of stock to the mixture and continue stirring and cooking for another 10 minutes until the most of the stock has cooked down. Remove from heat and serve.

Perfect Pairing
2006 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Willamette, Oregon - $44

The 2006 Domaine Drouhin is one of Berkie (and my) favorite pinot noirs. The aroma is of beautiful rich cherry that is mirrored on the palate along with a hint of spice. The tannins are noticeable; however, they are well integrated and somewhat delicate. This is a very thoughtfully made, well-crafted wine that is confident in structure and complexity. It is very much a terrific Thanksgiving pinot noir.

When you think about versatile Thanksgiving wine pairings, pinot noir should almost always be one of your first thoughts. The berries, spice, herbs and vibrant acidity that are common characteristics of good pinot make it a tremendously food friendly wine.

Enjoy!

Thanksgiving Recipe and Wine Pairing - Chef Berkman's Applewood Bacon Braised Kale

The Wine Mecca of New England

This week I had the distinct honor of being in the presence of American wine royalty. Back in 1996, Silks at the Stonehedge Inn (Tyngsborough, MA) made a bold announcement when it was named as one of the prestigious Wine Spectator Grand Award winning restaurants. The award goes to the restaurants that meet a number of different criteria, from excellent service to breadth of selection to rare verticals and so on. At the time, there were only 93 restaurants in the world that could make such a claim. This past year, Left Bank Restaurant (which replaced Silks as Stonehedge Inn's on-site fine dinning restaurant) was awarded their 13th consecutive Grand Award (1 of only 72 in the world).

As someone whose passion is wine, I had to visit this bastion of fine wine, especially since it is in my own back yard. I made an appointment to meet the owner, Levent Bozkurt, to interview him for another article that I planned on writing in the future. Mr. Bozkurt approached with an air of confidence and openness that I was not expecting from someone of his stature (in the wine world). His resume is nothing if not impressive with the highlight being his establishment's ownership of New England's largest wine cellar, which houses over 112,000 bottles.

We sat down in a room that felt as if it was a grand library in a hunting lodge located somewhere in the Alps. From there, my interview was completely derailed by Levent's willingness to completely open up. He told me about how he got into wine as a result of his father giving him a shopping list of wines to pick up while traveling abroad during his professional soccer days with the Turkish professional team Galatasaray. He also shared an interesting story about how he acquired a bulk of the Inn's early collection. I could go on with the stories, but those will be for another day.

To amass a collection of the breadth and depth that the Stonehedge Inn offers takes time, patience and obviously deep pockets. One can simply go out and purchase a mass quantity of wine; however Mr. Bozkurt is very structured in his approach. After he initially invested a portion of his own collection (~2,000 bottles) and obtained the collection of a noteworthy collector from Dallas, Mr. Bozkurt set off to expand from this solid foundation the old fashioned way. He goes to the different regions (favoring France, "New Italy", Spain, Australia and California), tastes the wines, he interviews the winemakers and if everything is up to his standards, he will add their wines to his cellar to age (this method also allows for prices that are amazingly fair).

Levent mentioned a couple times during the tour that there is nothing more important that terrior and the grape. What I took away from this is that he is looking for a winemaker to realize what the earth has given them and work with it as unique, rather than trying to make it into something it is not. He does not want a Pinot Noir to be crafted to have characteristics similar to a Zinfandel, if he did "than he would just buy a Zinfandel." The most poignant example of this was when he was speaking of Veronique Drouhin-Boss, the winemaker at Domaine Drouhin in the Willamette Valley in Oregon. He said, "she realizes that this is not Beaune, this is the Willamette Valley." It is his appreciation for the small things like this that make him stick out as a viable authority on wine.

It is with this fine eye that he has amassed his collection and carefully selects which of his aging inventory of 82,000 remaining bottles are ready to be added to the list at Left Bank. His process of cellaring wines for years rather than days is another example of his attention to the process and sets his establishment apart from others in New England. Like the other 71 restaurants from around the world that join in the elite, Left Bank may be misunderstood by those who do not appreciate what a list of this caliber represents (refer to this link for my explanation). However, to those who do appreciate the effort, passion and life's dream of a devoted proprietor to offer an immaculate experience, they will recognize that they have found a true wine Mecca.

The Wine Mecca of New England

Welcome to my wine world!

As published on 9/23 in the Nashua Telegraph (click link to view Telegraph version).

When I first proposed writing a wine column to the Telegraph, I did so for a few reasons.

First, as a restaurant/personal wine consultant, I hold a firm belief that wine has a way of elevating life's special moments. This belief may sound overly romanticized, but hear me out.

Have you ever had people over for dinner, or gone out to dinner with someone special or a group of friends? Of course you have. Now have you noticed how those same occasions are noticeably different when a nice bottle of wine is served?

Catch my drift?

Wine has special qualities that elevate a family meal into a feast or a chat around the table into a brainstorming session about fulfilling your dreams.

The second reason is to counteract what I have experienced from the beginning of my own wine journey. Wine has been the object of some very pretentious people who make it far too complicated. My goal is to show you that wine is simply wine – and it is meant to be enjoyed by all. The appropriate level of involvement is up to you. Never let anyone who thinks he or she knows more about wine make you feel inferior for not knowing!

Finally, there are truly special things going on in our neck of the woods regarding wine. My intent is to introduce, or re-introduce, you to local wine-related gems and review some of the restaurant wine experiences available in the area. No need to worry, restaurateurs! (Well, no need to worry if you offer a good experience for your patrons.) I will also be sharing my perspective on goings-on in the wine world, including some delicious and not-so-delicious reviews of readily available wines. I will also be offering practical advice for those who appreciate and/or collect wine.

Let me begin by offering the review of a wonderful wine that I recently enjoyed: 2006 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $44.

Domaine Drouhin has a very rich background. It is the product of the expansion of French wine houses into the new world. Maison Joseph Drouhin, of Beaune, France, had been producing celebrated pinot noir since the 1880s. In 1987, it sought to pursue its own expansion when it purchased 225 acres of what was then a Christmas-tree farm.

The 2006 Domaine Drouhin is one of my favorite pinot noirs. The aroma is of beautiful rich cherry that is mirrored on the palate along with a hint of spice. The tannins are noticeable; however, they are well integrated and somewhat delicate. This is a very thoughtfully made, well-crafted wine that is confident in structure and complexity. It is very much a Burgundy-styled Pinot Noir.

Wine ratings issued by a reputable publication serve as a barometer of the quality. As you will find out, I don't normally fall in line with the Wine Spectator reviews a majority of the time. I feel they are tightwads in some instances, but then again, it is only one person's rating/analysis. WS gave it a 90 for the 2006 vintage, and I almost feel slighted for them! This wine is very comfortably a 92 pointer – 90-94 points indicate a great wine – and I think this will only get better with time. Wine & Spirits gave the DD a 93. I think this illustrates that ratings are highly personal! I hope you have a chance to enjoy this terrific wine.

All of the wines featured in ongoing reviews are readily available at the New Hampshire Liquor Store off Exit 6 behind the Nashua Mall.

Until next time, cheers!

Welcome to my wine world!

What a night, what a meal!

A group of us got together this past Saturday for an incredible night of food, wine and camaraderie. A couple months ago I proposed having a wine dinner, during which the meals prepared would be pared with a wine to show each other off. I have been doing these Wine Extravaganza dinners with some other friends and was hoping to show how this concept really makes for a special evening with this group.

As a group, we are truly lucky (in terms of culinary experience) to have a chef and a truly gifted cook. You add these two knowledge-bases together and it is a recipe for something memorable. The wines were certainly showcased, but the dishes were equal in imagination and flavor.

The menu was the result of two very talented chefs. Jason Berkman (pictured to the right, executive chef at Legal Sea Foods, Burlington) and Chris Baker were the ones responsible for creating the dishes that paired with the wines I selected.

The result was nothing less then extraordinary. We had great food, great wine, great conversation and to cap it off, a great cigar.

Below is the menu with wine pairings (with tasting notes and ratings). If you have a chance, you must try a couple of these dishes and/or wines!

Maine Oysters
Jalapeno Relish, Lemony Cucumbers, Watermelon Gazpacho

NV, Nicolas Feuillate, Brut Rose Champagne
Epernay, France
- Perfect clarity with watermelon juice color. On the nose there was a healthy amount of strawberry and raspberry with faint yeast. The palate was of super dry strawberry and raspberry with a nice pomegranate aftertaste. Terrific acidity and very well-balanced. ES - 90

Salmon Confit
Creamed Leek and Cannellini Ragout, Fennel Salad

2008, Nobilo Icon, Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, New Zealand
- Wonderfully young straw/greenish hue. Nose shouted pineapple, green apple, and grapefruit. The palate was lively and crisp again showing pineapple, green apple, and grapefruit with some nice minerality at the later middle palate. Terrific acidity and balance paired the salmon perfectly. ES - 93

Spiced Rack of Lamb
Fingerling and Avocado Mash, “Bounty” Rum Compote

2006, Domaine Drouhin, Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, Oregon
- Nicely concentrated purple hue. Nose and palate of complex black cherry with hints of oak and the palate continued with a slight trace violet. Very well-structured, nicely complex and elegant. ES - 94

Braised Beef Short Ribs
Oven Roasted Sweet Beets, Charred Belgian Endive, Crispy Onion

2005, Justin Isosceles, Meritage
Paso Robles, California
- Star wine of the night and I am not surprised. It was extremely dark purple, almost black in concentration. The nose was of blackberry, black pepper and oak. The palate was intense and rich, offering blackberry, currants, leather and smoke. The tannins were wonderfully supple. Overall this wine offered a lot of flair and panache. The Braised Short Ribs could not have been a better pairing! Decanted for an hour. ES - 95

Chocolate and Caramel Peach
Vanilla Ice Cream

1999, Chateau Pajzos Aszu 5 Puttanyos, Tokaji
Hungary
- Very surprising and delicious. This wine had a brilliant golden hue. The nose was of honey and apricot which were mirrored on the palate along with some caramel. It had a beautifully viscosity and was sweet, rich with intensity, balance and character. ES - 94

What a night, what a meal!

Poll Winner: Pinot Noir!

Results:
Pinot Noir - 6
Sauvignon Blanc & Riesling - 4 each
Other (better not be White Zinfandel) - 2

So you guys picked a red varietal for your favorite summer wine?!

I am just kidding! I love Pinot Noir anytime of year, and besides Zinfandel it is my favorite summer red. Since Pinot was the poll winner, I will be devoting this entry to two recommendations from this varietal. One entry level, one moderately expensive and both of which can be found easily at your local liquor store (if you are in NH) and are popular enough to find if you live elsewhere.

2006, Domaine Drouhin, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $44
Domaine Drouhin has a very illustrious background. It is the product of the expansion of French wine houses into the “New World”. Maison Joseph Drouhin of Beaune, France sought to pursue this avenue and in 1987 purchased 225-acres of what was then a Christmas-tree farm.

The 2006 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir is one of my favorite wines. The nose is a beautiful rich cherry that is mirrored on the palate along with a hint of spice. The tannins are noticeable; however they are well integrated and even a somewhat delicate. This is a very thoughtful wine that is confident in structure and complexity, very much a classic Burgundy-styled Pinot Noir.

As always, I disagree with the Wine Spectator rating. I feel they are tight-wads in some instances, but then again as I explained in an earlier post, it is only one person’s opinion. WS gave them a 90 for the 2006 vintage and I almost feel slighted for them! This wine is very comfortably a 92 and I think this will only get better with time. Wine & Spirits gave the DD a 93. I think this illustrates that ratings are highly personal!

2007, Benton-Lane, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $22
Benton-Lane produces some very nice Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. In fact, their Pinot Gris has been a revelation. However I will be focusing on their lower-end (price, not quality) Pinot Noir.

The 2007 Benton-Lane Pinot Noir is a very tasty and crisp wine. It is not as complex or elegant as the Domaine Drouhin or its’ big brother, Benton-Lane First Class, but it is not nearly as expensive either. This should not detour you in the slightest. This is meant to be consumed in the near future and is extremely tasty and very well-suited for food.

This wine exudes some very nice strawberry and cherry on the nose. On the palate I found the aromas were reversed. I picked up mainly fresh cherry with some strawberry thrown in for good measure. The balance and finish on this wine are very nice and leave you wanting more!

I was unable to find any published ratings for the 2007 Benton-Lane, but I would put this in the 88 range. This is a very good wine with its nice fruit, balance and crispness keeping it towards the higher end of the 80s.

I hope you have a chance to enjoy one, if not both of these wines. That’s the whole reason why I these things!!!

Poll Winner: Pinot Noir!