2009: Harvest Report (up to this point)

It appears that God is smiling on us this year. From all indications, the 2009 harvests from across Europe and the US are ringing the sounds of excellence. Today, we will be focusing on three of the major collecting regions of Napa Valley, Bordeaux and Burgundy. It would be amazing if we looked back at 2009 as a historic vintage for numerous regions around the world. All indications are point to this being a possibility.

Napa Valley

According to a report in the St. Helena Star, the Napa Grapegrowers’ conference, reported that weather conditions this year have been almost perfect. Matt Taylor, the winegrower at the prestigious Araujo Estates, was not shy when it came to his excitement. He stated that 2009 has had an incredible growing season and that the grapes behold a beautiful acidity.

As of this past weekend, the weather continues to bless the harvest of 2009. According to the Napa Valley Registry, John Ruel of Trefethen Vineyards & Winery commented that the warm weather continues to speed ripening! On Tuesday, we will be bringing in our first chardonnay of the year, some beautiful Wente Musqué clone (a clone of Sauvignon Blanc) that is just singing with flavor.

Also, we received our first major comment about Cabernets from Volker Eisele of Eisele Vineyards. He said that temperatures in the vineyards dropped to 44 degrees during the night and daytime temperatures were around 80 degrees. This is the best weather for good color development in the reds. He finally went on to say that the harvest is on schedule for Cabernet, but will not be early due to recent cooler weather.

There have also been a lot of whispers of an over abundance of Cabernet and Pinot Noir grapes. Add to this that the market (for Pinot Noir) is finally slowing down, according to an interview in Wine Spectator of Dennis Martin, VP of Winemaking at Fetzer. These facts could potentially make for some good deals for bargain hunting consumers down the road.

Bordeaux

Expectations are equally optimistic in Bordeaux. According to reports from Decanter, the harvest of 2009 is being compared to the historic harvest of 2005. Other then a May hail storm, which damaged a decent amount of vines (with the worst damage occurring on the Right Bank), the conditions have been optimal.

Château Teyssier’s Jonathan Malthus said that in terms of quality, we are in the best position since 2005. Three weeks back, Château Carbonnieux’s Eric Perrin told Decanter that we are bringing in grapes of great delicacy and freshness, when speaking of the Sauvignon Blanc harvest. Perrin also mentioned that this years harvest is around one week to 10 days in advance of 2008 for both whites and reds, with larger quantity and healthier grapes.

Burgundy

In Burgundy, the expectations seem to be even loftier. Some of the wine houses are even declaring that 2009 will be a magnificent vintage for both the whites and reds. The grapes were small and they've developed from this perfectly through the summer. This is easily the best year since 2005, said Jean-Paul Durup of Domaine Jean Durup.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir producer Domaine Jacques Prieur’s owner Martin Prieur stated, we're looking forward to a very fine vintage, very balanced. Considering the stubbornness of Pinot Noir, these optimal growing conditions are providing a pivotal first-step towards a legendary wine.

In the cases of Napa, Bordeaux and Burgundy this year has provided a terrific harvest season thus far. However, as exciting as this all sounds, wine houses are not out of the woods just yet. In California there is always the potential of continued wildfires to contend with and there is always the possibility of a wet September/early October (which could dilute the concentration of the grapes).

As it stands, the weather since these articles were written has been optimal for harvest, as well as the final leg of ripening for the reds. If the negative variables continue to be held at bay, then it will be up to the talented winemakers to create terrific wines from a very exciting batch of grapes!


*Update*
Based on the most recent weather reports (9/16) from The Weather Channel, Napa Valley looks to be the best positioned with no rain in sight and temperature variation on the low and high ends that are very promising. Both Bordeaux and Burgundy have some rain in the forecast, the severity and length will be key factors to watch going forward. The temperatures also look to be dipping slightly. Let us hope that a few days of poor weather does not undo the promising foundation that has been laid.

Stay tuned for an in-depth report following the conclusion of the harvest season!


Sources:
Decanter –
http://www.decanter.com/news/288270.html
http://www.decanter.com/news/288418.html
http://www.decanter.com/news/288585.html
Napa Valley Register-
http://www.napavalleyregister.com/articles/2009/09/13/wine/doc4aa9e477b508d696249324.txt
St. Helena Star -http://www.sthelenastar.com/articles/2009/08/20/business/local/doc4a8c8db3e1c2a789907169.txt
Wine Spectator - http://www.winespectator.com/magazine/show/id/40590

2009: Harvest Report (up to this point)

A cautionary tale

When people decide to get into wine and start acquiring a few bottles to age for special occasion or simply collect, there are a few things that need to be kept in mind. Consistent temperature exposure (I keep mine in the range of 52-55 degrees), very little exposure to light, proper humidity levels (to prevent the cork from drying out), and exposure to very little vibration are the major things to keep under consideration when selecting a place to store your wine.

My cousin, who shall remain nameless, learned this lesson about proper wine storage the hard way. When Bob was a little younger and was new to wine collecting, he was actually quite astute with the wines he selected (I think my uncle may have had a positive influence on him in regards to this). He looked for the French Classics, some off-vintage First Growths from Bordeaux (a great way to experience the best of Bordeaux without breaking the bank) and some very interesting/well-respected California Cabs & Bordeaux Blends. The roster of his cellar is a beautiful thing. It is stocked with older vintages of Château Mouton-Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Haut-Brion, Château Margaux, Pichon-Longueville (both Lalande and Baron), Stag's Leap, and Chateau Montelena, just to name a few.

He amassed a very respectable collection and enjoyed some of these wines early on. However, quite a few of his bottles didn't fare as well over time. You see, they were stored in his apartment that typically got quite hot in the summer months (70+ degrees) that had a few windows that allowed direct sunlight to enter. That is two big mistakes that unless you are told, you won't really think about. Considering that this was in NE Ohio there was no shortage of humidity, so that was not an issue.

Why do I tell you all this?

For one, if you are beginning a collection or buying a few nice bottles for special occasions PLEASE do one of two things. Either keep them in your basement OR if you don't have a basement, consider purchasing a wine cooler (typically range from $100-500 depending on how many bottles it holds). There is no sense buying collectible or older bottles if you aren't going to store them correctly and let them go bad.

Second, I got to try one of these fallen classics. Let me tell you, it was interesting to say the least. When I was in Ohio in the Spring my cousin decided to let me try a bottle of 1986 Château Haut-Brion from Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux. This was one of my first experiences with a Bordeaux First-Growth and I am quite possibly scarred for life! I am just kidding, but I will surely never forget this.

The 1986 Château Haut-Brion had a very distinct aroma that was vaguely familiar. Due to the improper storage the aroma had altered somewhat and now smelled like cat urine! It was actually quite funny in a way (and completely sad in another). The very interesting thing was that this wine was NOT spoiled. My cousin and I were shocked. Once we got past the smell, we found that the palate still retained some faded dark cherry, earthy and leathery notes and was even a little pleasant. Albeit the smell was ghastly, the wine overall was not a complete loss! I am not sure I will experience anything quite like this again.

Now, my cousin learned from this experience and now has a nice set-up in his basement which has very good conditions for storing wine. Both he and his father are extremely gracious with thier wine and wine knowledge and have been a huge inspiration for me during my evolution in wine. My uncle has been somewhat of a mentor/counsel for the endeavor that I have undertaken as well.

Thanks you two!

I hope that you all can learn something from this cautionary tale, I know I did. Wine that smells like cat urine stinks!

A cautionary tale