Wine to me is passion. It's family and friends. It's warmth of heart and generosity of spirit.
Robert Mondavi

Showing posts with label Aging Wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Aging Wine. Show all posts

Thursday, November 5, 2009

The Wine Mecca of New England

This week I had the distinct honor of being in the presence of American wine royalty. Back in 1996, Silks at the Stonehedge Inn (Tyngsborough, MA) made a bold announcement when it was named as one of the prestigious Wine Spectator Grand Award winning restaurants. The award goes to the restaurants that meet a number of different criteria, from excellent service to breadth of selection to rare verticals and so on. At the time, there were only 93 restaurants in the world that could make such a claim. This past year, Left Bank Restaurant (which replaced Silks as Stonehedge Inn's on-site fine dinning restaurant) was awarded their 13th consecutive Grand Award (1 of only 72 in the world).

As someone whose passion is wine, I had to visit this bastion of fine wine, especially since it is in my own back yard. I made an appointment to meet the owner, Levent Bozkurt, to interview him for another article that I planned on writing in the future. Mr. Bozkurt approached with an air of confidence and openness that I was not expecting from someone of his stature (in the wine world). His resume is nothing if not impressive with the highlight being his establishment's ownership of New England's largest wine cellar, which houses over 112,000 bottles.

We sat down in a room that felt as if it was a grand library in a hunting lodge located somewhere in the Alps. From there, my interview was completely derailed by Levent's willingness to completely open up. He told me about how he got into wine as a result of his father giving him a shopping list of wines to pick up while traveling abroad during his professional soccer days with the Turkish professional team Galatasaray. He also shared an interesting story about how he acquired a bulk of the Inn's early collection. I could go on with the stories, but those will be for another day.

To amass a collection of the breadth and depth that the Stonehedge Inn offers takes time, patience and obviously deep pockets. One can simply go out and purchase a mass quantity of wine; however Mr. Bozkurt is very structured in his approach. After he initially invested a portion of his own collection (~2,000 bottles) and obtained the collection of a noteworthy collector from Dallas, Mr. Bozkurt set off to expand from this solid foundation the old fashioned way. He goes to the different regions (favoring France, "New Italy", Spain, Australia and California), tastes the wines, he interviews the winemakers and if everything is up to his standards, he will add their wines to his cellar to age (this method also allows for prices that are amazingly fair).

Levent mentioned a couple times during the tour that there is nothing more important that terrior and the grape. What I took away from this is that he is looking for a winemaker to realize what the earth has given them and work with it as unique, rather than trying to make it into something it is not. He does not want a Pinot Noir to be crafted to have characteristics similar to a Zinfandel, if he did "than he would just buy a Zinfandel." The most poignant example of this was when he was speaking of Veronique Drouhin-Boss, the winemaker at Domaine Drouhin in the Willamette Valley in Oregon. He said, "she realizes that this is not Beaune, this is the Willamette Valley." It is his appreciation for the small things like this that make him stick out as a viable authority on wine.

It is with this fine eye that he has amassed his collection and carefully selects which of his aging inventory of 82,000 remaining bottles are ready to be added to the list at Left Bank. His process of cellaring wines for years rather than days is another example of his attention to the process and sets his establishment apart from others in New England. Like the other 71 restaurants from around the world that join in the elite, Left Bank may be misunderstood by those who do not appreciate what a list of this caliber represents (refer to this link for my explanation). However, to those who do appreciate the effort, passion and life's dream of a devoted proprietor to offer an immaculate experience, they will recognize that they have found a true wine Mecca.

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Wednesday, October 14, 2009

When wine loses its soul

There are a lot of similarities between wine and man. Wine emerges from the miracles of nature in much the same way that man emerges from the womb. Starting out as buds breaking from the vine, they slowly emerge as grapes that are eventually harvested after many months of cultivation. Once harvested the grapes turn to juice and is then watched over precariously by its parents, the winemakers. Eventually, the juice emerges as wine, but that is not where the journey ends.

As with kids, wine needs to be watched over during those formative years to make sure it is shielded from unwanted elements (i.e. – sunlight, extreme temperatures, too little or too much humidity, etc.). Sometimes a wine will fall astray or doesn't have the natural make-up and leaves us prematurely. Sometimes wines will receive the love and care that they need and deserve to continue to flourish well beyond their siblings and cousins.


I am not sure why I thought about wine like this, but once this concept entered my brain, it made a lot of sense. Yesterday I was reviewing some tasting notes from a wine dinner that a group of us had back in the spring. We partook in a vertical of Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from 1994-1999. As I reviewed my notes and relived the experience, my recollections led me to the fact that we partook in wines that more likely than not had left us prematurely. There were a couple that held their own, most notably the ’95 and the ’98, but the others had left us long before.


So what is it like when a wine loses its soul?


The wine is still wine, it still exudes berries, spice, leather and a number of different terms meant to relate to practical sensory reference points, but there is something missing. Galileo said it best “wine is sunlight held together by water” and in this case, sunlight is the soul of the wine. It eventually leaves and takes a bit of the class and excitement along with it. The soul of the wine is what I feel many wine collectors/connoisseurs miss.


If I were to offer a bottle of 2007 Rosenblum Petite Sirah and a bottle of 1986 Haut-Brion to anyone with a wine pulse, almost all would invariably select the 1986 Haut-Brion. Chances are that the Rosenblum is alive, vibrant, exceedingly pleasant and has many years ahead of it, while the Haut-Brion, unless stored with terrific provenance, is souless and hollow. It may have characteristics of oxidation, grainy and off sediment, possibly emit an odor of cat urine (for those who have read “A Cautionary Tale” you will know what I mean), or may exude the characteristic of being hollow. Yes, the Haut-Brion offers a sentimental and buzz-worthy experience (no pun intended), but probably little else. It is a lot like looking back at times with an old best friend and then realizing that they are no longer that person (nor are you), there is something missing that makes things awkward.


The soul, or sunlight, is in many ways the most important aspect of wine, as with people. There are ways that we can prolong the soul of a wine, but it takes the TLC that only a good parent can provide. Without it, wine, like a person, will lose its soul and be left a hollow shell, never living up to what could have been.


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Friday, September 25, 2009

Athletes & Wine: The NFL

Wine Spectator recently ran a column, Are You Ready for Some Football (Wines)? , that is certainly right up many NFL fans’ alley. They highlighted some of the former players that have taken heavily to a wine lifestyle since retiring. It is surprising to see some of the names involved and hopefully this list continues to grow.

For those of you who doubt that an NFL player can make great wine, don’t think that they are going it alone. They have enlisted great winemakers to either mentor or partner with them in their journey. Winemakers such as Thomas Brown (of Schrader), Chris Figgins (of Leonetti), Rob Lawson (of Ghost Block) and the legendary Ed Sbragia (of Beringer), highlight the wealth of winemaking knowledge involved. This should not be surprising as great players realize the importance of having a great team (both on and off the field).

Unfortunately, current NFL rules forbid active players from discussing/promoting alcohol (it is simply an endorsement situation, the NFL just wants to be in control of it). Just imagine the active role wine has in many of these players lives, be it well-developed cellars, part-ownership in restaurants and wineries, and possibly as part of their investment portfolios. I look forward to hearing more as the years progress.

A couple weeks back I wrote a piece about current NBA player Zaza Pachulia’s recent purchase of trendy Atlanta wine restaurant Eno. As I alluded to then, any time an athlete embraces the wine lifestyle, I find it very appealing. Athletes have a way of appealing to most casual wine drinkers in a way that Robert Parker, Jim Laube and Hugh Johnson simply cannot. If you said “who?” to the names just mentioned, then I have proved my point. There is the potential that this type of exposure to non-wine drinkers will hopefully convert a few new wine lovers to our side.

I encourage you to read the Wine Spectator piece; it is a nice synopsis of former greats that have succumbed to the allure of the vine.

Listed below is a condensed list of former NFL personnel that are now involved in winemaking:

Charles Woodson (Current Green Bay Packer CB) – TwentyFour Wines
Rick Mirer (former Seattle Seahawk and Oakland Raider QB) – Mirror Wine
Drew Bledsoe (former New England Patriot and Buffalo Bill QB) – Doubleback Winery
Joe Montana (Hall of Fame quarterback of the San Francisco 49ers) – Montagia
Dick Vermeil (Legendary NFL coach) – Vermeil Wines
Mike Ditka (Hall of Fame player and coach) – Mike Ditka Wines
Carmen Policy (Former San Francisco 49ers president) – Casa Piena

Image Sources:
Charles Woodson - http://deadspin.com/5026974/nfl-to-charles-woodson-only-we-can-endorse-alcohol
Drew Bledsoe - http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/Wine-Talk-Drew-Bledsoe_4361
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Friday, September 11, 2009

The Sopranos in Nashua

A couple of big names from HBO’s The Sopranos hit the NH Liquor Store off of exit 6 in Nashua yesterday. John Ventimiglia (who played Artie Bucco) and Vincent Pastore (who played Salvatore 'Big Pussy' Bonpensiero) took a few hours to promote the release of The Sopranos Wine.

A very good sized crowd turned up to welcome these iconic stars of one of TV’s all-time greatest shows. Both stars were in good spirits and cracked jokes and posed for countless pictures, while signing bottles of Sopranos wine and anything else people shoved in front of them.

As my wife and I approached the table, we overheard some terrific banter.

Fan at the table: What would you guys pair with this wine?
Big Pussy: Pasta Fagioli
Person: Oh yeah
Artie: Well it’s better than a colonoscopy.
Big Pussy: That doesn’t sound fun.
Artie: It’s nothing, they knock you out.


Then it was our turn.

Big Pussy: (to Christine) Hey Honey!
Big Pussy: (to Me, less emphatically) Hey Honey.
Me: (To Artie) He is rather flirtatious isn’t he?
Artie: Yes he is.


Great times!

Ventimiglia and Pastore were refreshingly down-to-Earth and the wines were better then I expected. The varietals available were Pinot Noir, Chianti and Pinot Grigio. I am going to hold off final judgment on the wines until I have a chance to try them in a proper glass.*

According to their website, the wines were created to celebrate wine’s time-honored place in Italian family tradition. The Sopranos Wines line-up also includes a Chianti Classico and Riserva for those who appreciate wine and are not just looking for a novelty bottle. Hopefully they will be available locally soon.

All in all, the local wine/liquor scene in Nashua is being actively promoted. Along with the Soprano cast members, actor Dan Ackroyd was in town a few months back promoting his wine label. And in two weeks Danny Devito will be in town promoting his limóncello. Any chance of getting Francis Ford Coppola out here?


*The good people at Martignetti Distributing opted to use cups similar to those that accompany a bottle of cough syrup! Good job promoting your wines (and by good job I mean horrid job). You are lucky that Ventimiglia and Pastore are charismatic and excessively popular.

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Thursday, September 10, 2009

Fun Fact: Wine Origins

Most people think of France when they think of the birthplace of fine wine. In many respects they may be correct. The French certainly have perfected the craft, but were they the first?

For years, historians, archaeologists and scientists have been trying to isolate the origins of wine. Popular belief is that wine originated in the Middle East or immediate surrounding areas. The most common countries associated with the birth of wine are Turkey, Armenia, Georgia and Iran.

Although there is no disputing the fact that the wine consumed at that time would barely resemble what is consumed now, there is physical proof that inhabitants during that time created, stored and attempted to age wine!

There have been vessels unearthed which contained residue of stored wine and preservative agents, the oldest of which dates back 8,000 years. It was unearthed in what is today the Republic of Georgia.

Since then, many of the countries associated with wine’s origins have gone through transformations which have shifted there interest away from wine production. The most notable event would be the spread of Islam (in the 700s A.D.), a religion that forbids the consumption of alcohol.

The Greeks and later the Romans had no such restrictions and gladly picked up the mantel. They continuously sought to improve their wines and even laid the foundations of what would become the current wine strongholds of France and Italy. When these empires expanded, the presence of wine expanded along with them. The Romans would not only bring their own vines, but also cultivate wild vines growing in the different regions.

Regardless of its origins, wine has always been a very integral part of civilization. It has always lent itself to improving the quality of life of everyone who consumed it out of appreciation and not excess.


Sources (Text):
- Johnson, Hugh; Jancis Robinson. The World Atlas of Wine: Sixth Edition. Mitchell Beazley. Pgs.12 & 285.
-
http://www.independent.co.uk/news/science/now-thats-what-you-call-a-real-vintage-professor-unearths-8000yearold-wine-577863.html
Source (Image):
- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Satyrs_vine_press_BM_D550.jpg
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Friday, September 4, 2009

There's nothing like an older bottle of wine

1991, Simi Reserve, Alexander Valley, California

The Simi Reserve was still alive and well, although it is in that last quarter of its life. This was somewhat of a surprise based on what I had read prior to opening it and the conditions in which it was stored. In 1995, Wine Spectator's most discerning palate, James Laube, said it was supple and harmonious, with well-focused cherry, currant, mineral and spice notes that lead to firm tannins and an excellent, long finish. This ample California Cabernet needs to age into 1998 or 1999 to show its best. This would put its peak from 1998-2001 before starting to fade.

After tasting this last evening I would say that this is just past its peak (by 3-4 years). The 1991 Simi Reserve offered the color and body that would not reflect the fact that this wine is old enough to vote. The meniscus (outer ring) was of garnet but overall the wine still radiated a dark plum hue.

It had a medium to full-bodied feel, which still offered a nice dose of fruit on the nose and palate. The aroma jumped of prunes that folded nicely into saddle leather. At the very end, the nose put forth a nice amount of wet peat moss. The palate was of matured blackberry and cherry that evolved into plum, seemingly with traces of menthol (?). The tannins were completely mellowed out by this point.

This wine still has a good amount to offer and should drink pretty well for at least 3 more years. The original Laube tasting in 1992 was scored an 88, with the 1995 tasting scoring a 92. I would put this in the 90-91 range, because this wine still has some terrific qualities.

Although this wine will be extremely hard to come by, I feel that it is important to try older wines if wine is a passion of yours. It gives you a completely different experience and appreciation. Also, older wines make terrific birthday and anniversary gifts. Imagine opening a wine from your birth year, wow!

Note – when looking at projected time in wine ratings, the rule of thumb is as follows:

Let's use this wine as an example:
1995 (date published) – 1998 (date of peak) = 3 (years) + 1998 (date of peak) = 1998-2001 (peak drinking time)

This just goes to show you that estimating a peak drinking time is not an exact science. These expert palates are simply using what the wine is showing at the time and trying to put some practical advice forward.
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