A Wine Odyssey

Be sure to visit Senelwine.com

2010-04-07T12:30:00.005-04:00

Hey everyone. I hope that the sring has been treating you all quite well. I wanted to remind you that I am still writing! If you visit, Senel Wine, you can continue to read my original pieces, interviews, wine courses and continued coverage of the drama that is Bill Koch vs. Michael Broadbent/Christie's Auction House. Also, I am working on a column explaining a little bit more about the 2009 Bordeaux release that is upcoming and what to watch out for as a consumer.

I look forward to continuing to provide you with interesting content!

All the best,

Erol

Just a Reminder

2009-12-02T09:51:00.001-05:00

A Wine Odyssey has moved to www.senelwine.com

Go there to read my latest column from the Nashua Telegraph !!!

Attention: A Wine Odyssey is moving!!!

2009-12-01T11:14:00.003-05:00

As of today, the websites for "A Wine Odyssey" and Senel Wine Consulting have merged! I hope that you chose to continue to follow my writing at http://www.senelwine.com/. I look forwar to seeing you there!

Wine of the Week: Kris Pinot Grigio

2009-11-30T21:33:00.005-05:00

Quite a few years back, I was exposed to a wine that changed my perception of Pinot Grigio by the most unlikely of sources, my mom. It was the night after one of my Aunt Vikki's Christmas parties that she called me with a good amount of excitement. It is not often that she can talk wine with me (she is not a big drinker), but she made two very solid recommendations based off of that night. The first was Hess Allomi Vineyard Cabernet and the second was Kris Pinot Grigio. I must admit, at the time I associated Pinot Grigio with Cavit, Bella Sera and Barefoot, but after Kris, I was awaken to what Pinot Grigio can be.

Kris is produced by Franz Haas winery in Alto Adige, Italy. This area is in the northern most part of Italy and borders both Switzerland and Austria. The owner and winemaker, Franz Haas, is part of a long line of winemakers that dates back to the 1880s. As his name suggests, Franz is of strong Germanic roots and brings a uniquely German way of making wine to Alto Adige.

Another very unique aspect to Kris' wines are the labels. They display the works of Riccardo Schweizer, a contemporary Italian artist with Germanic roots. Each one of the labels depicts the blending of art and science, the primary focus of Haas' wines. The prints used on Kris' three varietals were a gift to Franz Haas and help to complete a beautiful wine experience.

2008 Kris Pinot Grigio, Alto Adige, Italy - $11.99 (reg. $14.99)

The 2008 is a very pleasant and very food friendly wine that keeps up with Kris' reputation for producing very consistent wines. By appearance it has the normal young characteristics of Pinot Grigio, pale yellow with evident hints of green. The nose jumps out of green apple and citrus which is reflected on the palate along with a bit of nut towards the end. The main component of acidity is well integrated into the flavor profile which allows for this wine to pair well with most non-red meat foods.

Ever since my mom recommended this wine, I have not been let down. This is by no means a flashy, rock star of a wine, but rather a steady rock that you can rely upon to pair with a nice meal. Add to this the price of the wine and you have a true value on your hands. I hope you enjoy this wine as much as I have over the years.

7 Reds & 7 Whites for the Holidays

2009-11-22T20:34:00.015-05:00

This will be my last post until I return from Ohio following Thanksgiving (either 11/30 or 12/1). I hope you enjoy!

This past week I ran a column in the Nashua Telegraph (Thanksgiving recommendations from the experts) that paired terrific Thanksgiving inspired recipes with their perfect wine pairings. The contributions came from a panel of truly creative and talented chefs, restaurant owners, a sommelier and even a trailblazing winemaker.

The final installment of my Thanksgiving recommendations is straight forward. I wish to simply put forth a list of 7 red wines and 7 white wines that can't miss when paired with traditional Thanksgiving fare. The price range for these wines varies greatly, however, I have gone through great lengths to find values at every price level. The way I look at it, if you are having a special meal, offer special wines to accompany it!

As I mentioned in the article, there are a few simple rules to remember when pairing food and wine:

• Choose a wine you enjoy.

• It is generally safe to pair hearty dishes with hearty wines and conversely lighter dishes with lighter wines.

• Pay attention to the accompaniments of the dish. Some wines may go well with turkey and mashed potatoes, but not the brussels sprouts or horseradish being served with them.

• Don’t stress about it; wine is meant to elevate, not tear down. You are with loved ones who will likely appreciate your effort.

With that being said, here are the wines. They have been selected with equal parts quality and food-friendliness taken into account. Also, all of these wines are well stocked at the NH Liquor Store off Exit 6 behind the Nashua Mall, as well as many other locations.

The Whites (pictured above)

- 2008 Kris, Pinot Grigio, Delle Venezie, Italy - $11.99 (reg. $14.99)

- 2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica, Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington - $16.99 (reg. $20.99)**

- 2007 Benton Lane, Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $18.99

- 2008 Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand - $21.49**

- 2007 Joseph Drouhin, Chablis, Beaune, France - $21.99 (reg. $23.99)

- 2006 Mer Soleil, Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands, California - $36.99

- NV Moët et Chandon Nectar Imperial, Champagne, Epernay, France - $38.99

The Reds (pictured above)

- 2007 Chateau Pesquie Terrasses, Rhone Blend, Cotes du Ventoux, France - $10.99 (reg. $12.99)

- 2008 Chalone, Pinot Noir, Monterey, California - $12.99 (reg. $15.99)

- 2005 Castano Solanera, Mourvèdre and Cabernet Sauvignon, Yecla, Spain - $13.99

- 2004 Antinori Villa Toscana, Cabernet Blend, Tuscany, Italy - $21.99

- 2008 Seghesio, Zinfandel, Sonoma, California - $22.99**

- 2007 Benton Lane, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $25.99

- 2007 Domaine Drouhin, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $43.99**

I know that it is cliche to say "life is too short to drink bad wine", but it is true. There are a tremendous amount of wines out there that are crafted by winemakers whose sole intention is to share their artistry with you. The wines above are a good introduction to food-friendly wines that are crafted with love. This Thanksgiving I ask you to invite them into your homes to help enhance your memorable Thanksgiving dinners!

** indicates my top 2 picks per category

Thanksgiving Recipe and Wine Pairing - Grandma's Cheesecake

2009-11-22T08:12:00.007-05:00

Thanksgiving at my Granparents' house is always the meal of the year. Robert and Dolores peck both come from households that are deeply rooted in ethnic culinary traditions that have been passed down through the years. I think all of us grand kids have a certain affinity for Wiener schnitzel, spatzle, paprikash, nut horns and all the other Central and Eastern European delicacies that we have experienced through the years.

With this in mind, you would probably expect the dessert that I selected to feature to be a Bohemian or Bavarian specialty. Instead, I have selected the dessert that has been perfect for the entirety of my life and one that is quintessential Americana, Grandma's Cheesecake. There is nothing elaborate, no insane preparation, just some Philadelphia and a whole lot of love!

Grandma's Cheesecake

(Serves 8-12)

Ingredients for Crust:

1 sleeve/package Graham crackers (9 crackers)

1 stick of butter (1/4 lb.)

Ingredients for Cheesecake:

3 8 oz. pkgs Philadelphia Cream Cheese (Do not use fat free)

5 Eggs

1 cup Sugar

1 1/2 tbsp. Vanilla

Ingredients for Topping:

1 Pt. Sour Cream (Do not use fat free)

6 tbsp. Sugar

1 tbsp. Vanilla

Step 1

Use a 9 X 13" pan (glass or metal)

Finely crush 1 package of graham crackers. Melt 1/4 lb butter and mix together with the graham crackers, pressing it in the bottom of pan and set aside.

Step 2

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees

In a large mixing bowl add 3 room temperature pkgs. of cream cheese. Using a mixer at low speed, add one egg at a time until all 5 eggs are mixed with the cream cheese. Slowly, add 1 cup of sugar to the mixture. Add 1 1/2 tbsp. Vanilla. When mixture is complete, pour it into the pan with the graham cracker crust. Bake for 1 hour or until you can put a toothpick into the center and it comes out clean.

Step 3

Remove from oven and let it cool for 10 minutes.

In a separate bowl, mix 1 pint of sour cream, 6 tbsp. of sugar and 1 tbsp. Vanilla. Spread this mixture over the cheesecake and return to oven for 10 more minutes.

Remove from oven and let cool 1 hour. Cover with Saran Wrap or aluminum foil and refrigerate. For best results, refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.

Perfect Pairing

2005 Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttanyos Red Label, Tokaji, Hungary - $37

This is a terrific pairing, because the cheesecake provides somewhat of a blank canvas to work with. The spice, apricot and honey in this wine will provide a wonderful compliment. You can also use other sweeter dessert wines (i.e. - Late Harvest Riesling, Muscatel or Vin Santo), but for my money, good Tokaji or Sauternes are the ultimate, and this is one of the best.

Thank you Grandma for sharing your wonderful recipe!

Thanksgiving Recipe and Wine Pairing - Chef Berkman's Applewood Bacon Braised Kale

2009-11-21T06:34:00.005-05:00

Over the past few years, I have gotten to know Legal Sea Foods' Executive Chef Jason Berkman the person. He's a great friend now and shares an affinity for many of the same things that I enjoy, namely good food, cigars and most importantly, wine. However, it was during this past year that I was exposed to his culinary prowess.

Back in August, a group of us took part in a wine dinner in which I selected the wines and Berkie collaborated on the menu (with Chris Baker). It was something to see how the meals came together and the precision in which they were prepared. After an event like this, it is hard not to have even more respect for the talent that good chefs possess.

Like Merry Edwards and John Carnevale, I thought that Chef Berkman would bring a unique element to the Thanksgiving project that I was putting together. I asked him to pick one of his favorite sides to share with us. He picked a kale dish which delighted me, as it is a vegetable that is dramatically underused, but extremely delicious and packed with vitamins. Also, with the gnocchi, crab dip and eventually cheesecake, we finally have something healthy! He also stressed the importance of buying local produce if possible. It will not only ensure freshness and regional identity, but it also supports local farmers. This last point is something that Chef Berkman and Legal Sea Foods aims to do with their menu items whenever feasible.

Applewood Bacon Braised Kale

(Serves 4)

Ingredients:
8 heads of kale
2 large onions (approx 1 1/2 lbs)
1/3 lb of applewood smoked bacon
1 tbsp. chopped garlic
2 cups of chicken stock
1 tspn. kosher salt

Step 1
Remove the ribs of the kale from the green leafy portion. Discard the ribs and cut the green leafy portion into 1 1/2" strips, lightly wash and then steam them for 5 minutes.

Step 2
Dice the bacon into 1" pieces and render it in a medium sized pot with salt on medium heat.

Step 3
Add garlic to the pot with bacon, when the garlic starts to show signs of toasting, add the onions and continue cooking until onions are translucent (caramelized).

Step 4
Add the steamed greens to the bacon mixture and mix well. Increase heat to high.

Step 5
Add 1 cup of stock to the mixture and continue stirring until stock begins to reduce (about 10 minutes). Add the remaining cup of stock to the mixture and continue stirring and cooking for another 10 minutes until the most of the stock has cooked down. Remove from heat and serve.

Perfect Pairing
2006 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Willamette, Oregon - $44

The 2006 Domaine Drouhin is one of Berkie (and my) favorite pinot noirs. The aroma is of beautiful rich cherry that is mirrored on the palate along with a hint of spice. The tannins are noticeable; however, they are well integrated and somewhat delicate. This is a very thoughtfully made, well-crafted wine that is confident in structure and complexity. It is very much a terrific Thanksgiving pinot noir.

When you think about versatile Thanksgiving wine pairings, pinot noir should almost always be one of your first thoughts. The berries, spice, herbs and vibrant acidity that are common characteristics of good pinot make it a tremendously food friendly wine.

Enjoy!

Thanksgiving Recipe and Wine Pairing - Jon Carnevale's Game Hen

2009-11-19T21:23:00.011-05:00

Along with Merry Edwards, Jon Carnevale brings a lot to the table as far as offering a unique look at pairing food and wine. As the general manager at Bedford Village Inn and only certified sommelier in New Hampshire, he has the palate, training and restaurant experience to know what goes well with most flavor profiles.

The recipe he decided to share with us today was a terrific recipe for an alternative to the typical Thanksgiving turkey. This is also a practical recipe designed to impress on any occasion.

Wild Rice & Chestnut Stuffed Game Hen

(Serves 4)

Ingredients:

1 cup wild rice, rinsed

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

2/3 cup coarsely chopped chestnuts (either fresh or from jar or can), toasted

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

2 tspn. finely chopped fresh thyme

1 tspn. finely chopped fresh sage

3 tbsp. finely chopped parsley

1 1/2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill

4 Cornish game hens, rinsed and patted dry

2 cups of low-sodium chicken stock

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

Step 1
In a 2-quart saucepan, combine rice, 3 cups cold water, and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until all the liquid has evaporated, 45 to 55 minutes.

Step 2

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees with the rack in center of the oven. Transfer rice to a large bowl, along with chestnuts, onion, thyme, sage, parsley, and dill; stir to combine. Lightly season the cavity of each game hen with salt, and loosely fill with equal amounts of stuffing, leaving a little space in each for the rice to expand during roasting. Any remaining stuffing may be baked in a covered heatproof dish; set aside.

Step 3

Using kitchen twine, truss hens by tying the legs together tightly, looping each side of the string around a wing, and bringing the string all the way around the bird tightly to hold the legs together and the wings close to the body.

Step 4

Season hens with salt and pepper, and place breast side down on a rack set in a roasting pan. When 10 minutes remain, flip the hens over and continue roasting until the hens are dark golden brown and the juices run clear when pierced at the thigh. Total cooking time for hens will be 50 to 55 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh, not touching the bone, should register 175 degrees to 180 degrees.

Step 5

Remove hens and stuffing from the oven. Transfer hens to a platter. Cover with foil, and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Place roasting pan on the stove over medium-low heat. Add 1/2 cup chicken stock. Using a wooden spoon, scrape up any browned bits from the roasting pan. Add wine, if using. Sift flour into the roasting pan, and stir to combine. Slowly whisk in 1 1/2 cups stock. Cook until mixture has thickened, 5 to 6 minutes. The consistency of the gravy may be adjusted with a teaspoon or two of stock or wine. Season the gravy with salt and pepper to taste.

Step 6

Place a hen on each of 4 plates. Spoon gravy over hens.

Perfect Pairings:

Jon offers up two terrific wines to pair with the wonderful game hens. The first of which is the one he would select if this was pretty much his last meal ever. The second of which is a more practical pairing that can be found a little more regularly available.

1997 Domaine des Comtes Lafon "Clos de la Barre", Meursault, Burgundy, France

Based on tasting notes, I can see why Jon would select this wine. It is not only from a noteworthy Burgundian producer, but the palate of honey, lemon and herb would perfectly compliment the game hens.

2006 Lemelson "Thea's Selection" Pinot Noir, Willamatte Valley, Oregon - $36

This pinot has very nice acidity and pleasant notes of smoked blackberry. Since the game hen is a little gamier (pun intended) than turkey, the complex structure and smoky nature of the wine will compliment the dish well.

Thanksgiving Recipe and Wine Pairing - Merry Edwards' Crab Dip

2009-11-18T19:35:00.009-05:00

After writing about the Merry Edwards 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, I was contacted by the winery and thanked for the kind words. When I originally came up with the idea for the Thanksgiving column for the Nashua Telegraph, I was hoping that Merry would contribute. She did not disappoint!

Merry Edwards, as a winery, is still very new to the game. They were incorporated in 1997 and started to produce wine in the early 2000s. Although new, do not let this fool you. In 1973, Merry Edwards became one of the first woman winemakers in California. Thus, she is certainly not inexperienced and brings a very unique approach to her wines. Many wineries are focused on the bottom line, while she states that their focus is on gentle, traditional, labor intensive winemaking practices. You can clearly experience this difference in their wines.

Connie’s Hot Crab Dip

Ingredients:

8 ounces cream cheese
8 ounces Dungeness crab meat (two medium sized crabs)
1 tablespoon milk
2 tablespoons green onion, minced
1 tablespoon horseradish
dash Worcestershire
salt, pepper, and fresh dill to taste

Step 1

Combine cream cheese, crab meat, milk, onion, horseradish and Worcestershire in a mixing bowl and fold together. Once all of the ingredients are well incorporated, begin to add the salt, pepper and dill slowly, tasting along the way.

Step 2

Bake at 400 degrees in an ovenproof baking dish for 15 minutes or until bubbly.

Step 3

Let sit for about 5-10 minutes and then serve with mild-flavored or water crackers and enjoy!

Perfect Pairing:

2007 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - $42

Merry decided on the 2007 RRV Pinot Noir and in my opinion you could easily use their wonderful Sauvignon Blancs as well (or you can do both!). She describes this wine as "echoing the mood of the wonderful 2007 harvest, the personality of this wine conveys a strikingly pure fruit character. The deep garnet color is a prelude to its ripe, dark fruity aroma. Nearly all the descriptors common to Pinots from our Valley come to mind – black cherry, cola, blueberry, black currant and raspberry are tinged with rich cocoa, chocolate and nutmeg. Each time you return to the glass, another intriguing layer reveals itself. The rich fruit carries forward into a boldly structured palate which is bright yet smooth with a seamless, luxurious finish."

Sounds delicious!

Merry Edwards’ wines are available by order only (thanks for nothing NH Liquor Commission!). You can order her wonderful wines through the Merry Edwards Website, trust me they are worth every penny!

Thanksgiving Recipe and Wine Pairing - Chef Brianas' Gnocchi

2009-11-17T22:42:00.008-05:00

Chef Constantine Brianas, a native of Nashua, has become one of the more acclaimed chefs of the area. He joined co-owners Stephen and Karen Williams a couple years back to create Unums. Since then, the restaurant has become a beacon of fine food and wine that challenges and trumps the best that southern New Hampshire has to offer.

Brianas’ innovated dishes and rotating menu offer a wonderful alternative to some of the more traditional fair in the area. One of the things that Unums does so well is their gnocchi and Chef Brianas was kind enough to share one of his seasonal recipes with us! It may look complex, but in all honesty if you follow the instructions it is very doable.

Gnocchi with Colossal Shrimp in Simple Pumpkin Sauce with Toasted Ginger

(4 servings)

Ingredients for Gnocchi:

1/2 cup whole milk Ricotta

1/3 cup Romano cheese (grated)

1 tsp lemon juice

3 eggs

Salt & Pepper to taste

Flour to consistency (approx 1-2 cups)

Ingredients for Toasted Ginger:

1 tree of ginger

Olive oil to coat

Dusting of ginger powder

Dusting of garlic powder

Zest of 1 orange

1 sprig of tarragon or sage

Ingredients for Shrimp:

12 large shrimp (peeled and deveined)

1/3 cup pumpkin puree

1/3 cup heavy cream

1 cup vegetable stock

2 tbsp. of maple syrup

1 tbsp. lemon juice

Step 1 – Gnocchi

Blend eggs together and then add Ricotta and whip together until a creamy consistency. Then add lemon juice, Romano and salt & pepper (to taste) and then whip until it returns to creamy consistency. Add the flour slowly until the mixture begins to fall of the edges of your mixing bowl. Continue to slowly add flour at this point until the stickiness turns to a pizza dough consistency.

Step 2 – Gnocchi

Gnocchi mixture should be rolled into logs that are ½ inch in diameter and then cut into 1 inch pieces. Set aside.

Step 3 – Toasted Ginger

Preheat oven to 450. Peel ginger, exposing all of the raw flesh and then cut into pieces so that you can mince it. In an ovenproof pan, add the olive oil and then after a few moments (allowing it to get hot), add the ginger and lightly dust the ginger and garlic powders and then toast until golden brown. Add the orange zest and sage or tarragon (julienned). Put into the oven for 7 minutes.

Step 4 – Shrimp and Simple Pumpkin Sauce

Sauté shrimp in a skillet until flesh turns pinkish and then add the ginger mixture from the oven and continue to sauté until golden brown and the shrimp have curled. Add the vegetable stock and heavy cream and then reduce by 1/2 until a lightly thickened consistency occurs (if it seems to be too thick, add a little more vegetable stock).

Step 5 – Gnocchi

Boil a pot of water and add a slight pinch of salt. Add the gnocchi and watch it sink to the bottom. Once the gnocchi floats to the top, strain it in a colander.

Step 6 – Finalizing the dish

Add the pumpkin puree and maple syrup to the mixture that has been sautéing and lightly incorporate. Then add the gnocchi, lightly stir for a couple moments and then serve!

Perfect Pairing

2007, Truchard, Chardonnay, Carneros, California - $29

While sitting with Chef, he recommended using a crisp white wine with this dish. Either a Sauvignon Blanc, Un-Oaked or lightly oaked Chardonnay or Riesling would work quite well. He recommended the 2007 Truchard for this dish as it is one of the wines on Unums wine list. It is light yet complex blend of nectarine and pear with lively acidity and long finish that will cut through the creaminess of this dish.

Enjoy!

Thanksgiving recommendations from the experts

2009-11-17T21:40:00.007-05:00

As published in the 11/18 issue of the Nashua Telegraph (click here to view Telegraph version).

Wine to me is passion. It’s family and friends. It’s warmth of heart and generosity of spirit.

When I think about these words uttered by the late Robert Mondavi, I cannot help but imagine him speaking about the many occasions that took place during his life in which he shared what he referred to as “the gracious life.” In many ways, I feel that all of us share in the gracious life on one day in particular, Thanksgiving.

Thanksgiving is a day unlike any other during the year. It symbolizes something that is so simplistically beautiful and humbling – being thankful. Next Thursday, families will converge on dining room tables all over the country. Little kids at one end, adults at the other, but all joined together as a family. The traditions will vary from region to region, and the spread will include a variety of dishes from the traditional turkey and mashed potatoes, to lasagna, to baked macaroni and cheese. No matter what is on the table, the attention is squarely on the meal and togetherness that this wonderful day promotes.

However, there are some conundrums that may arise. A common point of inquiry surrounds wine. The typical question of “What wine pairs well with Thanksgiving dinner?” will inevitably come up numerous times. There are many possible answers; nevertheless, there are variables to consider first: What is the main element of the side dishes? Are there any harsh flavor components? How is the turkey prepared? Who are my guests, and what do they like?

Now, I could be very general and say that Oregon pinot noir goes well with turkey with cranberry sauce, or that a Gewurztraminer from Alsace would go well with a mushroom and herb stuffing, but I think you all deserve more than that. Thus, I have enlisted the help of a team of experts from the culinary and wine worlds to assist me in this task. I have posed to them this simple question: What is your favorite traditional family dish served on Thanksgiving, and which wine would you pair with it?

When approaching the recommendations, one thing to consider is why these pairings work. Here are a few simple rules to help you along:

• Choose a wine you enjoy.

• It is generally safe to pair hearty dishes with hearty wines and conversely lighter dishes with lighter wines.

• Pay attention to the accompaniments of the dish. Some wines may go well with turkey and mashed potatoes, but not the brussels sprouts or horseradish being served with them.

• Don’t stress about it; wine is meant to elevate, not tear down. You are with loved ones who will likely appreciate your effort.

However, if you have an aunt, uncle or hotshot cousin who is truly into wine and would look down on you if you served Two Buck Chuck, let’s hear what the pros have to say to help you to avoid such a disaster:

Appetizers

• Constantine Brianas, executive chef and co-owner of Unums in Nashua, NH: “Buttered Gnocchi with Toasted Ginger, Simple Pumpkin and Colossal Shrimp is not only a dish that we serve at the restaurant, but also one that I serve during Thanksgiving. The combination of the fresh made gnocchi with the pumpkin puree has an autumn feel that is undeniable and sets the stage for the rest of the meal.”

Brianas’ perfect pairing: 2007 Truchard Chardonnay from Carneros, Calif.

• Merry Edwards, trailblazing winemaker/owner of Merry Edwards Wines in California: "One of my favorite recipes during Thanksgiving is Connie’s Hot Crab Dip. It is made with Dungeness crab and is a dish that was one of my dear friend’s late mother’s and one which we continue to enjoy today."

Edwards’ perfect pairing: 2007 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley pinot noir from California.

Main course/sides

• Jon Carnevale, sommelier and general manager of the Bedford Village Inn in Bedford, NH: “Occasionally, we go with an alternative to the traditional stuffed turkey. One of our favorites is Wild Rice and Chestnut Stuffed Game Hen. It is an incredibly aromatic dish from beginning to end, with the thyme and sage announcing the main courses arrival.”

Carnevale’s perfect pairing: 1997 Domaine des Comtes Lafon “Clos de la Barre,” Meursault from France or 2006 Lemelson “Thea’s Selection” pinot noir from Willamatte Valley, Ore.

• Karen and Stephen Williams, wine loving co-owners of Unums: “Typically, we brine our turkey overnight and then fill it with an amazing Leek and Wild Mushroom Stuffing. The stuffing is a combination of porcini, shiitake and button mushrooms, along with crumbled French baguette, thyme and fresh leeks. On the side, we do a mashed potato with roasted garlic and freshly grated horseradish.

The Williamses’ perfect pairing: 2005 Krupp Brothers Black Bart Marsanne from Napa Valley.

• Jason Berkman, executive chef at Legal Sea Foods in Burlington, Mass.: "Ever since I became a chef, I have had to step it up in the kitchen at home during the holidays. Besides the traditional Thanksgiving fare, one of my favorite side dishes is Applewood Bacon Braised Kale. It is quite the crowd pleaser."

Berkman’s perfect pairing: 2006 Domaine Drouhin pinot noir from Willamette Valley, Ore.

Dessert

• I couldn’t let the column end without dessert! Luckily for us, my grandmother (Dolores Peck) makes a scrumptious traditional cheesecake. Grandma’s Cheesecake is nothing flashy, just Philadelphia and a lot of love. Typically, dessert is paired with coffee or tea, but if you want a truly memorable dessert experience, Sauternes or Tokaji will bring this to the next level.

My perfect pairing: 2005 Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttanyos Red Label from Hungary.

I would like to thank our experts for their thoughtful recommendations. Hopefully, their suggestions will assist you when putting together some terrific pairings of your own this Thanksgiving.

From our families to yours, have a safe and happy Thanksgiving!

Editor's Note: Recipes for the dishes mentioned in this article will be posted one at a time daily beginning tomorrow.

Joe Montana sacked again...

2009-11-13T12:49:00.004-05:00

Back in September I wrote about the healthy community of formal NFL greats that have transitioned to lives in viticulture (click here for article). In my wildest dreams I could only wish to be in the position that these men find themselves, playing in the NFL and then living the gracious life in Napa, Sonoma or Washington State. Unfortunately, it looks as if one member of that elite group has decided to bail out.

While reading Winespectator.com, I came across a blurb that in my opinion is unfortunate, although the details surrounding this are not known. I thought some of you would be interested in this follow-up:

There's been a lot of talk about football player-owned wine labels lately, so it came as somewhat of a shock this week when Unfiltered learned that one of the leading names in the merging of gridiron greats and grapes may be getting out of the business. NFL Hall of Fame Quarterback Joe Montana and his wife, Jennifer, have put their Tuscany-inspired wine estate in Calistoga, California, on the market. The asking price for the 500-acre property and 9,700-square-foot home is $49 million. You may also remember Montagia, a Howell Mountain Cabernet blend that the Montanas collaborated on with Beringer winemaker Ed Sbragia. Unfiltered suspects that Montana may have proved the old adage true: If you want to make a small fortune in the wine business, start with a large one.

Don't forget to check back on Monday for the first of seven Thanksgiving wine pairing installments!

Update

2009-11-12T07:44:00.004-05:00

Hello Everyone,

I know that during the past week few weeks there has not been as much content posted on A Wine Odyssey. I would like to apologize for this, while at the same time reassure you that the momentary lull will be well worth it. There will be a few new features coming up that I feel will be of interest to you all.

The first feature will begin next week and run for the duration of time between now and Thanksgiving. I have enlisted the help of a some local and national food and wine all-stars to offer up their favorite holiday recipes and perfect wine pairings for each dish. I will feature a new recipe/wine pairing nearly every day. I strongly encourage you to try some of them out.

The second feature will be more of a running journal of my development as the sommelier at Left Bank Restaurant at the Stonehedge Inn & Spa. This has been an exciting development and one that I am going to approach with the respect that it deserves.

Finally, if you have any questions as to which wines to pair during the holiday season, please feel free to leave a question in the comment field on any of the recipes and I would be happy to address them.

I truly appreciate your continued support and look forward to providing you with interesting and practical content and features.

Cheers!
Erol Senel

Wine of the Week: Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-11-09T07:30:00.007-05:00

In the last column, we covered Levent Bozkurt's desire to seek out wineries that have a true grasp of terrior. The folks at Burgess Cellars have a feel for the slopes of Howell Mountain on which their vineyards are situated. They plant only Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, because it is their belief that these three varietals are best suited for the land and conditions that God gave them.

Burgess Cellars has been a family-owned winery since 1972, which is by no means commonplace in today's Napa Valley. Another unique aspect of Burgess is that their winemaker, Bill Sorenson, has been at the helm for the full duration of the family's operation of the winery.

Now that you know a little more about Burgess Cellars, how was the wine?

2005, Burgess Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, California - $35 (on sale for $25)

From the get go, I was excited about this wine. The aroma did not take long to unfold. The nose was led by a healthy dose of vanilla, which was followed up by currants and blackberry. The palate was very pleasant and well structured, with currant and blackberries leading the way with some cedar coming in about mid way. This medium/full bodied wine had a tremendous amount of acidity and the tannins were still firm. A very good bottle now which should only become a little more nuanced with age.

My only gripe about this wine is that someone at Burgess thought it a good idea to use synthetic corks instead of natural. Now call me a romantic, but if you are opening a good bottle of wine, you do not want to be pulling the equivalent of a rubber stopper out of it! Regardless, this was a good one and I shouldn't be so picky.

Wine Spectator gave this wine an 87 point rating and I would bump it to 90 points. The structure and nuances of this wine is surely improving with age (compared to their notes from back in February of 2009). Be sure to check this out and take advantage of the ridiculous discount available at the NH Liquor Store!

This wine is available at the Exit 6 NH Liquor Store (behind the Nashua Mall).

The Wine Mecca of New England

2009-11-05T16:34:00.016-05:00

This week I had the distinct honor of being in the presence of American wine royalty. Back in 1996, Silks at the Stonehedge Inn (Tyngsborough, MA) made a bold announcement when it was named as one of the prestigious Wine Spectator Grand Award winning restaurants. The award goes to the restaurants that meet a number of different criteria, from excellent service to breadth of selection to rare verticals and so on. At the time, there were only 93 restaurants in the world that could make such a claim. This past year, Left Bank Restaurant (which replaced Silks as Stonehedge Inn's on-site fine dinning restaurant) was awarded their 13th consecutive Grand Award (1 of only 72 in the world).

As someone whose passion is wine, I had to visit this bastion of fine wine, especially since it is in my own back yard. I made an appointment to meet the owner, Levent Bozkurt, to interview him for another article that I planned on writing in the future. Mr. Bozkurt approached with an air of confidence and openness that I was not expecting from someone of his stature (in the wine world). His resume is nothing if not impressive with the highlight being his establishment's ownership of New England's largest wine cellar, which houses over 112,000 bottles.

We sat down in a room that felt as if it was a grand library in a hunting lodge located somewhere in the Alps. From there, my interview was completely derailed by Levent's willingness to completely open up. He told me about how he got into wine as a result of his father giving him a shopping list of wines to pick up while traveling abroad during his professional soccer days with the Turkish professional team Galatasaray. He also shared an interesting story about how he acquired a bulk of the Inn's early collection. I could go on with the stories, but those will be for another day.

To amass a collection of the breadth and depth that the Stonehedge Inn offers takes time, patience and obviously deep pockets. One can simply go out and purchase a mass quantity of wine; however Mr. Bozkurt is very structured in his approach. After he initially invested a portion of his own collection (~2,000 bottles) and obtained the collection of a noteworthy collector from Dallas, Mr. Bozkurt set off to expand from this solid foundation the old fashioned way. He goes to the different regions (favoring France, "New Italy", Spain, Australia and California), tastes the wines, he interviews the winemakers and if everything is up to his standards, he will add their wines to his cellar to age (this method also allows for prices that are amazingly fair).

Levent mentioned a couple times during the tour that there is nothing more important that terrior and the grape. What I took away from this is that he is looking for a winemaker to realize what the earth has given them and work with it as unique, rather than trying to make it into something it is not. He does not want a Pinot Noir to be crafted to have characteristics similar to a Zinfandel, if he did "than he would just buy a Zinfandel." The most poignant example of this was when he was speaking of Veronique Drouhin-Boss, the winemaker at Domaine Drouhin in the Willamette Valley in Oregon. He said, "she realizes that this is not Beaune, this is the Willamette Valley." It is his appreciation for the small things like this that make him stick out as a viable authority on wine.

It is with this fine eye that he has amassed his collection and carefully selects which of his aging inventory of 82,000 remaining bottles are ready to be added to the list at Left Bank. His process of cellaring wines for years rather than days is another example of his attention to the process and sets his establishment apart from others in New England. Like the other 71 restaurants from around the world that join in the elite, Left Bank may be misunderstood by those who do not appreciate what a list of this caliber represents (refer to this link for my explanation). However, to those who do appreciate the effort, passion and life's dream of a devoted proprietor to offer an immaculate experience, they will recognize that they have found a true wine Mecca.

Date Night: Corks

2009-11-03T19:52:00.009-05:00

As published in the 11/3 issue of the Nashua Telegraph (click here to view Telegraph version).

For the second installment of the "Date Night" series, I thought it would be worthwhile to venture to one of Wine Spectator's Best of Award of Excellence restaurants.

Since there are only two restaurants in the state to receive this distinction and only one in southern New Hampshire, that narrowed down my choices. Bedford Village Inn got the nod. However, the part of the inn we visited is not your mom and pop's Inn. It was the chic Corks Wine Bar, which opened last November.

I had a chance to speak with BVI's general manager and sommelier Jon Carnevale about the creation of Corks. The concept emerged from a discussion surrounding what to do with a seldom used dining room. Considering the reputation it had for being the vanguard of fine wine and dining in New Hampshire, the choice to open a wine bar should be of little surprise.

When my wife and I first walked in, we were very drawn in by the surroundings. The austerity of BVI's fine dining area melted away. The room we were standing in was stylistically unique. Corks is superbly designed to feel like a room created for a memorable wine experience. The comfortable chairs and intimate seating arrangement are perfect for a romantic night out - so much so that we witnessed a couple getting engaged. The wallpaper is made from pressed cork and bottles are beautifully displayed throughout the room. Another unique element is the artwork of acclaimed artist Gerard Puvis displayed throughout. His pieces are unique as they are created using the foil wraps from wine bottles. Impressive is a very accurate description.

With all of this lauding of the atmosphere, how was the most important part of the evening?

After being seated in a quiet corner, my wife and I took the economical approach, with a few glasses of wine, an appetizer and dinner. The menus, both for wine and food, are geared toward having a very different experience; you are able to select from their tavern and fine dining menus, as well. Chef Peter Agostrinelli's menu for Corks has more of a tapas feel and offered items that were distinctive and comfortably priced. We selected the chorizo lollipops and the fried olives stuffed with sausage and fontina as starters. The lollipops were good, but they were outshone by the wonderful olives, which we could have eaten all night. For our main course, we opted for the kobe beef burgers with homemade tots, which was one of the better burgers I have had lately. Price altogether for food: $28!

Wait, is this really the Bedford Village Inn?

The common misconception is that BVI is expensive. The truth is that most menu items are in line with most of the nicer area restaurants and its wine markups are far less! I believe the misconception arises from the fact that BVI inspires you to indulge and embrace the experience it creates. The reality is that any restaurant will be as expensive, or inexpensive as you make it.

Due to the reasonably priced food menu, we were able to enjoy their wine list a little more liberally. However, before getting too far into its wine list, I want to make sure that all the beer drinkers out there know that Corks offers a very nice selection of brews on tap and by the bottle. It also offers a beer flight, which I explained in the past is a way to sample a few different offerings that are deliberately paired together.

OK, back to the wine.

Corks has at its disposal the full breadth of BVI's award-wining wine list of more than 700 different wines. A list of this size could be a bit daunting, but don't be overwhelmed, as they made it approachable for us all. The Corks wine list has been condensed and is broken down into two parts, the Corks Cruvinet Selections, which offers the "best of the best" by the glass and a standard "by the glass" list. Each wine is offered in a 2- or 3-ounce tasting pour, a standard glass or by the bottle - it all depends on what you wish to spend. If you are looking for structured variety, there are numerous wine flights offered, each with a distinctive theme.

With this being said, my wife decided to go with a flight of sparkling wine with different liquors. I, on the other hand, jumped into the Cruvinet Selections like a fat kid on cake.

To keep things reasonable, I went with a 2-ounce pour of three different wines. My favorites of the three were the 2007 DuMOL Pinot Noir from Sonoma, which shone of crisp cherry and plum on the nose with sour cherry, plum and some spice on the palate. This was easily a 92-point wine and a tremendous way to start. The other was a 2005 Shafer One Point Five Cabernet from Napa, which was such a refined and elegant cabernet with rich blackberry and currant along with nice minerality and super refined tannins. The Shafer was one of the better Napa Cabs I have had lately, at 93 points. Besides these two, there were another 10 or so on the Cruvinet portion of the list. Carnevale mentioned that they are normally rotated every week.

The reason I speak so highly of the Cruvinet Selections is because it is almost wholly unique to this area. The normal wines by the glass offered in restaurants typically range from $8-$25 wholesale, whereas the wines offered on this list retail range from $50 or more. To me, that provides a level of quality experience that is worth mentioning and a level of sacrifice and investment by the owners for the benefit of their patrons.

The aforementioned wines and food are one part of the consumer-friendly, unique and quality-laden experience offered at Corks. The waitstaff was knowledgeable and friendly (thank you, Meagan), and Carnevale was extremely generous with his time and knowledge. As he mentioned to me, "I love to take time with those who love wine." What more can someone who loves wine ask for? I would highly recommend Corks for your date and hope you share a similar experience.

Corks Wine Bar is at 2 Village Inn Lane in Bedford. For more information, call 472-2001 or visit http://www.bedfordvillageinn.com/.

Wine of the Week: Rosenblum Petite Sirah Heritage Clones

2009-11-02T08:25:00.004-05:00

Rosenblum Cellars, like many wineries in California at the time, was founded by passionate wine lovers who had established themselves in frields far away from viticulture and oenology. Ken Rosenblum, an established veterinarian, and his wife Kathy founded Rosenblum Cellars in 1978. Since then, Ken has headed up the winemaking and has elevated his wines to the point that Rosenblum Cellars is now regarded as a "Mecca for Zin-fanatics". Besides their famous Zinfandels, Rosenblum focuses primarily on varietals native to the Rhone.

The winery is located in Alameda County which obviously is not in the traditional wine areas of Napa or Sonoma counties (although they do have a tasting room in Napa, smart idea!).

So now you know a little bit about the winery, how was the wine?

2007 Rosenblum Heritage Clones, Petite Sirah, San Francisco Bay, California - $16

This is a very good Petite Sirah. Its appearance was extermely dense and viscous. The aromas exploded with lush blackberry and bitter chocolate. On the palate, this robust wine exuded very dry, big blackberry, strawberry and currant with spice and green vegitation in the backdround. There was a healthy amount of heat from alcohol present, but it was not enough to really take anything away from this fun wine.

Overall, this was a very good representation of what Petite Sirah can be. It would pair wonderfully with any red meat, especially rack of lamb or sirloin. I would put this wine at around 91 points and once you take into account the price point, you quickly realize what this is a terrific value!

This wine is available at most NH Liquor stores, including the one behind the Nashua Mall off of Exit 6.

How you can help Kyle's Family...

2009-11-01T07:15:00.008-05:00

A bit more information regarding the passing of Captain Kyle Van De Giesen.

As I mentioned last week, Kyle left behind a wife, daughter and soon-to-be born son. They are obviously going through a lot and will have needs that need to be supported. They have a mass of loving people around them to help them emotionally, but there is obviously the financial needs that linger in a time when that is the last thing you want to think about.

If any of the followers of A Wine Odyssey feel moved to help a fallen hero's family, there has been a memorial fund established. All of the funds go directly to an account established for Megan (Kyle's wife), in which she will have full discretion over.

Captain Kyle R. Van De Giesen Memorial Fund

Bristol County Savings Bank

96 Commonwealth Ave

North Attleboro, MA 02760

508-699-5556

If sending directly, please call the bank and ask for Sandy first.

Thank you for considering to help the family of a soldier that gave his life so we can pursue our dreams in safety.

A Tribute to a Hero: Kyle Van De Giesen

2009-10-27T22:32:00.013-04:00

Editor’s Note: I am taking the week off from writing about wine, because sometimes there are far more important things.

It is funny how certain events in life cause you to deeply reflect on the past, present and future. Typically, we go to work and when we get there, we think about getting out and going home to see our families or go out with friends. Well, that is what one man was thinking about doing just a couple days ago.

His day probably started just like every other day, maybe with a morning run or something else exceedingly normal. He was probably thinking about the following week when he would be reunited with his family. Seemingly normal stuff. That is until he would power-up his Cobra helicopter and those moments of normalcy were gone. This is somewhat fitting for someone who in my mind and memories was not in the least bit normal.

Kyle Van De Giesen was not normal in the sense that he had a certain aura about him that most people do not possess. He was the calm and collected figure who so easily managed a huddle during a two-minute drill or could go up to a troubled kicker who had just missed a field goal and somehow get through to them to relax, this is only a game. Relax, this is only a game led him to leave behind the sport he loved to pursue the dream he had always imagined. It was his composure, leadership, sense of the moment and self-belief that Kyle walked with during the days that I knew him at Saint Anselm College.

It was these aforementioned characteristics that allowed Kyle to fly choppers into areas of the world that very closely resemble Hell and look back at his day as normal. According to his family and friends, his life’s dream was to be a military helicopter pilot. It is not often that one gets to live out one’s dreams. For this, we must consider Kyle lucky. Unfortunately for this brave Marine, that dream and any semblance of normalcy ended. Captain Kyle Van De Giesen was killed just days ago when his helicopter crashed in Afghanistan.

To Kyle’s credit, he leaves behind a list of friends and loved ones befitting a hero. Unfortunately, this tragedy's other victims are his loving wife, daughter and soon-to-be-born son. This loss to them is something that I have imagined myself and cried relentlessly over, yet I know that is but a modicum of what they feel. No one can diminish that. But let us not forget what Kyle has come to mean to all of us. He embodied the selfless, courageous and loving hero that we all wish we could be. The kind of man who would go to places like Iraq and Afghanistan to fight a war in order to keep safe his family and friends back home. For that reason, although he is no longer with us in the flesh, Kyle Van De Giesen will hold a place of utmost nobility in our hearts and minds.

Relax, this is only a game. At the time, it seemed like such a simple concept, you missed a field goal, get over it, you will have another opportunity to redeem yourself. However, when you think about that comment in hindsight, it puts everything into perspective. I sit here tonight wondering if Kyle ever thought about what he said that day against Dartmouth. If he did, I bet he had a good laugh. What a silly thing to get distraught over.

We will all miss you Kyle, you were a great friend and teammate to many. Your legacy will live on as only a true hero’s legacy can.

Updated 10/30: Remembering Kyle Van De Giesen (YouTube)

Understanding Wine Ratings

2009-10-26T08:04:00.006-04:00

Lately, my thoughts have drifted towards wine ratings and how exceedingly arbitrary they are. With that being said, they do serve one function, by assigning a number to a wine, there is a delineation created between levels of quality. To the average consumer, this helps to indicate what is good, great, or crap. In my opinion, that is where the benefits end.

Since I originally wrote this piece, Dr. Vino (aka Tyler Coleman) referenced a column written by Jonah Lehrer (a contributor for Wired magazine). The topic of this column referred to a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux wines by the renowned Robert Parker. For those who are not aware of who Robert Parker is, let me explain. Simply put, he is the most influential wine critic in the world.

Lehrer quoted Dr. Vino in his piece, stating:

A final issue is about points and the nature of blind tasting, a capricious undertaking is there ever was one. Although Parker did not rate the wines yesterday, his top wine of the evening (Le Gay) was the lowest rated in the line-up from his most recent published reviews... For all the precision that a point score implies, it is not dynamic, changing with the wines as they change in the bottle, nor does it capture performance from one tasting to the next.

This posed a serious issue that I addressed when i first started writing A Wine Odyssey. In that piece, I said it is exceptionally important to know yourself and what you like. It also addressed some of the issues that presented themselves when assessing a rating.

The following is from an earlier post entitled What exactly do wine ratings mean? From back in July:

First off, there is the analysis of the wine. When the taster is assigning a rating, it is based off the quality of the appearance, aromas, taste, balance and complexity, among a few other considerations.

Second, each of these ratings and descriptions are based off of the tastings of typically one person who happens to be covering the wine region that the bottle you are considering falls under. These tasters work for any of a number of wine publications (i.e. - Wine Spectator, Wine Advocate, etc.). These wine experts who report are by no means amateurs. In fact, they have some of the most discerning palates in the world. They can tell the difference between mediocre and good, as well as outstanding and truly great. However, in the end, everyone is going to have their own unique experience with wine.

Third, it is widely assumed that there is a certain amount of politics involved. I am not saying that tasters are going to overlook obvious flaws, but there are sometimes some suspect ratings issued. Just remember, the wine community is a tight group that you do not want to find yourself on the outside of, especially if you are a publication that relies on their access.

Finally, if the tasting is not done blindly,which means without seeing the bottles and labels from which the wine is poured, this may have a significant impact. If a professional taster views the label prior to tasting, they will know the winery, the vineyard it came from, the reputation, and the price range. These bits of information may lead to bias either for or against a certain producer/vineyard.

These points are illustrated very clearly in the above example of Robert Parker's blind tasting of the 2007 Bordeaux vs. his published ratings which were not done blindly.

So, what should you take away from all this nonsense? I feel the most important thing you can do is be yourself. It is important to have wine ratings to help navigate through the vast world of wines. I would not, however, take these ratings as word of God. Know your palate, know what you like and build off of that. If you are trying to decide is a certain bottle is going to be as good as advertised, I would recommend you use Cork'd or Cellar Tracker. Both of which offer a collection of ratings and tasting notes from people who have actually tried these wines. The scores are then pooled to give, in my opinion, a far more accurate rating.

100 Point Scale & Meanings:
100-95: A classic, truly great wine
94-90: An outstanding wine that is superior in character and style
89-85: A very good wine with a few special qualities
84-80: A good wine
79-75: A very mediocre, but drinkable wine that may possess a few flaws
74-50: A wine that is not recommended for consumption

4 to Spit, 4 to Sip

2009-10-22T20:40:00.012-04:00

It’s not often that I find wines that I truly cannot stomach, but once in a while it happens. In this list I will also recommend an alternative for each. Again this is only in my opinion, but if I can help save you from wasting calories and money I will!

2005, Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains, Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, California - $40

Vibrant ruby colored. The nose was very restrictive and never really opened up. Palate reflects the traditional blackberry, cherry, and other dark fruits. Tannins are still a bit intense. Hopefully with age it will improve, but I doubt it will impact it that much. This is a very average wine at best. Very disappointing for a winery of this stature.

ES – 82 WS – 85

Alternative to Ridge Santa Cruz: Justin, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, California - $25

2005, Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne, Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France - $20

To sight this was a very translucent and unspectacular. The nose had a slight amount of red berry and spice, but also exhibited the smell of a plastic grocery bag. The palate was similar to a cherry jolly rancher, but was very short lived. It was very thin and watery, with a drying sensation towards the end.

ES – 81 WS – 84

Alternative to Faiveley: Joseph Drouhin Laforet, Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France - $18

2007, Fleur de California, Pinot Noir, Central Coast, California - $15

Like the Faiveley, light and unspectacular. Cherry and berries on the nose and palate, but not much else. It had a very boring and short palate.

ES – 80 WS – 82

Alternative to Fleur: Greg Norman Estates, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbera, California - $15

2007, Evodia, Old Vine Garnacha, Calatayud, Spain - $10 (as mentioned in an earlier post)

The pigment is a beautiful dark purple/almost black, but that is where the exuberance ended. The nose of this wine was very disjointed with hints of wet stone/cinder block and an unusual cherry dominating with the traditional influence of spice and black pepper certainly evident. The palate took on sour cherry, spice, and oak. Contrary to other reviews that I read after, I found there to be some sharpness to this wine. This seems to be a polarizing wine.

ES – 84 WA - 88

Alternative to Evodia: Chateau Pesquie Quintessence, Côtes du Ventoux, Rhône, France - $19

All wines named in this post are available at the NH Liquor store off of Exit 6 (behind the Nashua Mall)

Wine list can speak volumes about an eatery

2009-10-21T07:02:00.006-04:00

As published in the 10/21 edition of the Nashua Telegraph (click link to view Telegraph version).

A restaurant’s wine list says a lot about who the people running it are, what their aspirations are and what they think about you. This is very evident in locations that you will visit across the country. From Applebee’s, to The Cheesecake Factory, to Mario Batali’s Del Posto, you will find very different, yet appropriate, wine experiences that fit the atmosphere, cuisine and crowd that typically dine at these establishments.

I bring up Batali’s Del Posto because a good friend of mine recently dined there while taking a long weekend in New York City. Once he returned, he had a few questions for me regarding his wine experience at Del Posto.

On a recent trip to New York, I went out for a truly fine dining experience. After being seated, I was greeted with a massive wine list. When I mean massive, I mean more than 2,500 selections. How does a restaurant build and maintain such a large list, and is it necessary?

This is certainly a legitimate way to look at the situation. A wine list of this magnitude can be overwhelming, to say the least. The answer to the first part of the question will be a bit wordy, so let me address the second part first.

Using my friend’s example, Del Posto is in the food and wine mecca of the U.S. Day in and day out, it goes up against culinary giants such as Daniel, Jean Georges, Le Cirque, Tribeca Grill and countless others. Competition is fierce, and there is a significant amount of prestige that is placed on an award-winning wine list and the service that is provided by their resident sommelier(s). Having truly classic wines available is an appropriate necessity when you are dining on a truly classic meal!

Del Posto, as mentioned before, is one of many restaurants owned by Batali. Besides being an extremely successful restaurateur, he is also a partner in Italian Wine Merchants, which is a high-end wine shop that has a selection of Italian gems unlike any other I have come across. It is this passion for bringing together the complete dining experience that sets restaurants and restaurateurs, like Batali, apart. It is also what allows the restaurant to charge a premium for the experience that it provides, while maintaining a waiting list as long as Madison Avenue! How does a restaurant build and maintain such a large list?

To build a wine list with the breadth and vision of Del Posto, locally based Left Bank at the Stonehedge Inn & Spa (owner Levent Bozkurt and son Taylan pictured right) in Tyngsborough, Mass., or any restaurant with a tremendous wine offering, takes a very structured approach. Once the structure is in place, knowledgeable people are needed to implement the list, along with an owner with exceptionally deep pockets.

Initially, the most important steps are to realistically assess your clientele, menu, storage space and budget. Not everyone can afford a bottle of a Bordeaux First-Growth, Chateau Petrus, Gaja Sori Tilden or Romano Dal Forno, especially when marked up to restaurant standards. This means that there must be a number of wines to bridge the gap between reasonably priced wines and the classics.

The job of creating any wine list typically falls either to the owner, a wine director, a consultant or, unfortunately in some cases, a distributor. Now, a list that is of notable quality will probably not be developed by distributors, so we will avoid speaking about them any further.

Depending on the size of a wine list, the owner, if truly knowledgeable, or a consultant can put into place something special that will convey to the patrons that their experience is of the utmost importance. This takes a massive amount of time and effort, so unless you plan on doing all of the leg work, hire someone to do it for you. A couple good examples of this are Unums and Michael Timothy’s in Nashua. They have modest wine lists compared to Del Posto, but lists that are well thought out and looked over by the owners.

A different example is Junipers at the Wildflower Inn in Lyndonville, Vt. The owners and management did not have the knowledge to put together a thoughtful and quality wine list. They decided to hire a consultant do so. (In full disclosure, I put together this list.) It was rewarding to see them embrace what a thoughtful wine list could do, not only for their patrons, but for their restaurant.

Creating and maintaining a list such as the one at Left Bank at Stonehedge, which offers 2,000 selections (112,000 bottles in inventory), or Del Posto, which offers 2,300 selections (39,000 bottles in inventory), takes a team effort. The organization is typically led by a wine director and generally includes personnel working beneath them (i.e., assistant director and sommeliers). The task is a daily exercise in taking inventory – thank goodness for computers – reordering, blind and regular tastings, negotiating, rotation, research, promotion, etc. It is a daunting task, but a task that is energetically undertaken, because wine professionals are exceptionally passionate about what they do.

Ultimately, a restaurateur’s goal is to create an experience that is positively unique and memorable. A strong wine list is essential in conveying the message of a restaurant to its patrons. If this is done effectively, the guests will leave happy and be more likely to return.

Autumn Wine Weekend: Wildflower Inn

2009-10-19T11:51:00.008-04:00

When you think of a New England inn, you may think of wood burning stoves, comfortable plaid sofas and a quaint dining area inside of a home surrounded by a picturesque valley, dirt roads and rolling hills. That is exactly the experience that you get at the Wildflower Inn, located in Lyndonville, VT (about a 5 minute drive from Burke Mountain).

My family and I have been in need of a getaway for a few months now. The rigors of work and finding a new job have taken its toll and we needed a nice weekend to simply relax. This place provided the backdrop to do just that. The five of us (Christine’s parents joined us) stayed in the Grand Meadow suite which is honestly more like a house than just a room. The living area proved to be the central focus and where we spent the majority of the time while indoors. The comfy sofas proved to be the perfect place to kick up your feet, while enjoying the views and sipping on some wine. As well as the perfect spot for the quote of the weekend by Jerry (my father-in-law), “your mama wears combat boots, mine wears diapers.” Great times!

Besides the trip to Cabot creamery and a few terrific meals at Junipers, the on-site restaurant, the apple cider pressing added another unique and enjoyable experience to our list.

And then there were the wines!

During our dinner at Junipers, I wanted us to experience a very nice wine that I had selected for the list. I went with a bottle of 2003 Bell Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa. It was chosen because I felt that it would be a terrific accompaniment with all of our meals. It exhibited mature currants and cantaloupe rind on the nose and boisterous currants and strawberry on the palate with some mellow earth towards the middle. The finished lingered on and on with this very nicely aging wine. A true highlight.

Throughout the course of the weekend we had a couple other interesting wines that both provided surprising results.

The first wine we had during the weekend was a 2007 Nine Stones Shiraz from Barossa, Australia. This wine was a terrific surprise exhibiting some nicely complex strawberry, blackberry and spice along with some fresh herbs. The body was not as robust as some Barossa Shiraz, but in this case it was welcomed as this wine seemed to have a bit more finesse and with a mid-teen price point you can’t go wrong. Look for this one of the list at Junipers soon.

The other wine we had was a bottle of 1997 Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon that I brought from home (procured through Winebid.com). Although a product of a fantastic vintage (the overall 1997 Cabernet vintage was rated 99 by Wine Spectator), there was something a little off, possibly improper storage earlier in its life. Regardless it was still pleasant, exhibiting a rusty meniscus and plum core. The palate was a bit moist, almost dank and somewhat reminded me of blackberry cobbler. The palate was primarily wet earth and currant with some smoked meat at the end, which was quite nice.

Overall, the experience up there was memorable and the in-laws were very impressed and even discussed having a family reunion up there. Hopefully that will come to fruition, because I love to share the Wildflower Inn with whomever I care about!

Fair Disclosure: Erol Senel is the Wine Director at Junipers at the Wildflower Inn, but all meals and wine were paid for out of pocket and I would not lead you astray!

Broadbent: victim of a tarnished industry?

2009-10-16T10:15:00.027-04:00

Editor’s Note: For those of you who follow wine and wine industry news, this may be old news; however for those of you who are growing in interest for this fascinating field, this is interesting stuff and something that has electrified wine publications, message boards and blogs everywhere.

The figure of Michael Broadbent has long represented the studious, thorough and expert voice of one of wine’s most prestigious auction houses, Christie’s. He has accumulated achievement awards so numerous that it would become laborious to list them all and he still represents a figure in the wine world worth respecting. With all this said, his reputation and unwillingness to face the true problem has tarnished this great giant of wine.

The main issue has been around since fine wine began to garner any sort of premium. There will always be certain elements looking to make a quick buck, or in this case fortune, off counterfeiting wine. The riveting book The Billionaires Vinegar by Benjamin Wallace primarily focuses on the story of Hardy Rodenstock (real name Meinhard Görke), a man with a knack for procuring suspicious yet exceptionally rare bottles, including the renowned Jefferson Bottles. These bottles were then sold at auction to numerous bidders, including Bill Koch, whose suits and story were the driving factor in this text.

One of the victims in all of this is in fact Michael Broadbent. I am not passing judgment as to whether he had a knowing role in moving these mysterious/fake wines. Personally, I do not see why he would; everything I have ever read about him leads me to believe he is an honest and passionate connoisseur of wine. With that being said, he was in charge of Christie’s fine wine department and in some ways failed to do his job in protecting the bidders.

This is where my true problem with the legend Broadbent exists. Ever since the book has been released, he has been fighting to clear his name of any sort of guilt. The fact that he cannot dispute however, is that he was in charge of Christie’s wine house and was a close friend (or at the least a close aquaintance) to the mysterious Rodenstock. Why he doesn’t simply admit that he got caught up in the excitement and it may have skewed his judgment is beyond me. The same should be said of Acker, Merrall & Condit in the case (click here for the PDF, I would suggest reading this it is juicy!) regarding Rudy Kurianwan. This lack of acceptance truly bothers me and the way he and his son are going about badgering anyone who has an opinion on the issue is infantile.

The text following is accredited to the popular wine blog DrVino (aka Tyler Colman)

In July, Michael Broadbent brought legal action against Random House, the publisher of The Billionaire’s Vinegar: The Mystery Of The World’s Most Expensive Bottle Of Wine. News of the settlement broke on Decanter.com, which called it a “victory” for Broadbent.

Author Benjamin Wallace has just sent this public statement to DrVino.com:

This statement is authorized for publication in the U.S. only:

It is unfortunate that Michael Broadbent has chosen to blame the messenger, and doubly so that he is blaming the messenger for something the messenger is not actually saying. I have never felt that Mr. Broadbent acted in bad faith, and contrary to his claims, I maintain that The Billionaire’s Vinegar does not suggest that he did. In any case, while I believe that my book speaks for itself, I do want to point out a few things: I was never personally sued by Mr. Broadbent, and I am not a party to the settlement or apology negotiated by him with Random House. Because of the U.K.’s notoriously plaintiff-friendly libel laws and conditional fee system, the company made a business decision to settle with Mr. Broadbent in order to contain its legal costs and exposure in the U.K. Since the claim was always confined to the book’s availability in the U.K., the settlement does not prevent the book from being published anywhere else or require that a single word be changed. So, while Random House has agreed not to distribute the book in the U.K., the book remains available in the United States, where the libel laws provide greater protection for freedom of speech and where British libel judgments are almost never enforceable, thanks to the First Amendment.

Mr. Broadbent should not be blaming Ben Wallace, but rather his inability to realize that the gentleman, who no one knew anything about or how he got the rare bottles, had taken advantage of him and countless others.

Broadbent’s job was to make sure that the wines provenance was accounted for and had cleared his criteria to be auctioned. Provenance in THE most important aspect of aged wine and unless a potential seller is willing to offer detailed information regarding the origins of a wine (prior storage, how obtained, verification, etc.), transactions with that person should cease immediately and information regarding said person should be circulated to other auction houses. We are not talking about $60 bottles but rather thousands and tens of thousands of dollars worth of wine!

The real problem that this book brings to light is that the wine houses need to learn how to say "NO" more often. A very reliable and widely respected source told me that he has to say no to numerous bottles of suspicious wine being offered which origins sound suspect. Until there is a form of extreme due diligence and caution that is executed by every auctioneer and auction house, there will continue to be more and more counterfeit artists making money off of those who truly love wine. Unfortunately, in this case, Michael Broadbent has been painted the goat. Be it fair or not, only he knows, but the fact remains that auction houses of the world must look past the potential big fees to be made and say no to these questionable wines.

When wine loses its soul

2009-10-14T08:39:00.008-04:00

There are a lot of similarities between wine and man. Wine emerges from the miracles of nature in much the same way that man emerges from the womb. Starting out as buds breaking from the vine, they slowly emerge as grapes that are eventually harvested after many months of cultivation. Once harvested the grapes turn to juice and is then watched over precariously by its parents, the winemakers. Eventually, the juice emerges as wine, but that is not where the journey ends.

As with kids, wine needs to be watched over during those formative years to make sure it is shielded from unwanted elements (i.e. – sunlight, extreme temperatures, too little or too much humidity, etc.). Sometimes a wine will fall astray or doesn't have the natural make-up and leaves us prematurely. Sometimes wines will receive the love and care that they need and deserve to continue to flourish well beyond their siblings and cousins.

I am not sure why I thought about wine like this, but once this concept entered my brain, it made a lot of sense. Yesterday I was reviewing some tasting notes from a wine dinner that a group of us had back in the spring. We partook in a vertical of Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from 1994-1999. As I reviewed my notes and relived the experience, my recollections led me to the fact that we partook in wines that more likely than not had left us prematurely. There were a couple that held their own, most notably the ’95 and the ’98, but the others had left us long before.

So what is it like when a wine loses its soul?

The wine is still wine, it still exudes berries, spice, leather and a number of different terms meant to relate to practical sensory reference points, but there is something missing. Galileo said it best “wine is sunlight held together by water” and in this case, sunlight is the soul of the wine. It eventually leaves and takes a bit of the class and excitement along with it. The soul of the wine is what I feel many wine collectors/connoisseurs miss.

If I were to offer a bottle of 2007 Rosenblum Petite Sirah and a bottle of 1986 Haut-Brion to anyone with a wine pulse, almost all would invariably select the 1986 Haut-Brion. Chances are that the Rosenblum is alive, vibrant, exceedingly pleasant and has many years ahead of it, while the Haut-Brion, unless stored with terrific provenance, is souless and hollow. It may have characteristics of oxidation, grainy and off sediment, possibly emit an odor of cat urine (for those who have read “A Cautionary Tale” you will know what I mean), or may exude the characteristic of being hollow. Yes, the Haut-Brion offers a sentimental and buzz-worthy experience (no pun intended), but probably little else. It is a lot like looking back at times with an old best friend and then realizing that they are no longer that person (nor are you), there is something missing that makes things awkward.

The soul, or sunlight, is in many ways the most important aspect of wine, as with people. There are ways that we can prolong the soul of a wine, but it takes the TLC that only a good parent can provide. Without it, wine, like a person, will lose its soul and be left a hollow shell, never living up to what could have been.

Wine of the Week: Mas Belles Eaux Les Coteaux

2009-10-12T09:52:00.005-04:00

Languedoc wines are not all that well known to wine drinkers in the US. This is obviously a shame as many are very similar in structure and quality to wines from the Rhone Valley at a lesser price. Due to its location on the coast of the Mediterranean and at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains, the Languedoc benefits from hot, dry summers and relatively mild winters.

The vineyard of Mas Belles Eaux stretches over the hillsides of the southeast Languedoc. The vineyards of Mas Belles Eaux are planted solely with the traditional grape varieties of the Languedoc: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan. The Les Coteaux parcel is divided up exclusively of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre and are situated half-way up the hillside for optimum exposure to the sun.

2005, Mas Belles Eaux Les Coteaux, Languedoc, France - $18

Overall, this was a fun wine. The aromas of spice, oak and red berries led to a very nice and lively palate of raspberries, cherries and smoke. The body is medium to full-bodied and shows some nice complexity.

2005 was a terrific year all around in France and the Languedoc was no exception. Wine Spectator gave the ‘05 a 91 pt rating and although this was a fun wine, I would give it an 89. However, the price point on this wine is terrific and makes it a clear bargain!

This wine is available at the NH Liquor store off of Exit 6 (behind the Nashua Mall).

The Big 3-0!

2009-10-09T12:08:00.012-04:00

Yesterday was a watershed moment in my life. Not only did I turn the big 3-0, but I also left my day job of over five years at Fidelity Investments. At this point I do not know which is more significant. Most people look at turning 30, 40, or 50 as major milestones and I hardly disagree with that. However, leaving Fidelity will likely be the far more significant event. As of right now, I don't know what direction I am going, but there is no doubt in my mind that it will be better than where I was (shouldn't be too hard).

Regardless, yesterday was my 30th birthday, so my wife and I decided to celebrate in style. We popped a bottle of Moët & Chandon Rosé Imperial early on and the crisp, lively and reinvigorating nature of red fruit exhibited by that Champagne felt like an appropriate awakening to a new chapter of my life.

Later in the evening we decided to go to Corks at the Bedford Village Inn (as a side note, they offer one of the most complete wine experiences I have partaken in). As always with places like that, the experience was memorable and noteworthy. After we took advantage of their terrific by the glass selection (Christine had a Spanish Flight and I chose a glass of Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc) we decided to indulge in a terrific bottle of California Syrah to pair with our peppered sirloin steaks.

2007, Pax Syrah Cuvee Christine, North Coast, California

What a delicious wine. The nose was of rich raspberry and a tremendous mix of pine needles and forest floor. The palate was alive with rich dark fruit and the aforementioned underbrush and presented a medium to slightly full body. The Cuvee Christine is a very classy and opulent wine in the style of the terrific wines of the Rhone Valley. Far bigger than I have grown accustomed to from California Syrah.

Robert Parker rated this in the 90-92 range and it certainly does fit his traditional preference for a robust wine. Personally I would put this a bit higher at 94 points as it certainly exhibited many terrific traits.

All together yesterday was a terrific day. Hopefully there will be plenty more where it came from!

Date Night: Unums

2009-10-07T08:33:00.011-04:00

As published in the 10/7 edition of the Nashua Telegraph (click link to view Telegraph version).

Like most married couples with children, my wife and I have date nights that allow us to have time for each other without the rigors of bringing along the family. This past week, we decided to take our date night to Unums.

We selected Unums because of their Wine Down Wednesday program. On Wednesdays, they open five different bottles of wine, which are normally only available by the bottle, and offer them by the glass. It is a nice way to try normally more expensive bottles without paying top dollar. They also offer a flight of these wines. Wine flights are becoming a more common, and welcomed, addition to restaurant wine experiences. A flight involves a few different wines that are served as a group in tasting portions (usually 2-3 ounce pours), to allow you to try a number of different types of wines without paying full glass prices.

We decided on a wine flight to accompany our array of appetizers. Unums has a continuously rotating menu, which allows co-owner and chef Constantine Brianas to show off his culinary repertoire. The dishes selected were the Unums Tart, Pork Medallions, and the Wild Mushroom and Spinach Gnocchi. Chef Brianas’ creations were a delicious accompaniment to our wines and his well-developed dishes, especially the Unums Tart, energized our taste buds.

The wines that were selected for the flight by co-owner and passionate wine lover, Stephen Williams, offered a delightful assortment of diverse varietals:

The Bodegas Agnusdei (Albariño), from the Rias Baixes region in northwest Spain, was a very light, crisp and smooth way to start off the tasting. For those not familiar with Albariño, it is somewhat similar to Pinot Grigio in taste. This wine had a very nice amount of pear and pineapple in the aroma and also on the palate. I give this refreshing wine an 88 point rating.

To continue our progress from light to heavy, we had the Villa Di Corlo Giaco (Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Merlot) from Italy, which offered a nice transition into the reds. The aroma of smoked cherry was mirrored on the palate, along with the typical dark berries imparted by the Cabernet/Merlot blending. The unique element in this wine was the subtle hint of eucalyptus (yes, the same leafy greens that koalas enjoy). Although the finish was somewhat short, this was a lovely wine. I rate this at 88 points as well, as it was a very good wine.

Staying in Italy, we partook in a Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva (Sangiovese) as the third tasting. It was a dry wine with blackberry on the palate and nose. Its tannins offered a little spike, which allowed it to stand up to the food we were eating. The Felsina was a very agreeable wine. I give this an 89 point rating.

The next wine was my favorite of the flight, a Michael & David Phillips Petite (Petite Sirah). Personally, I like my wines bold with a nice level of complexity. This Petite Sirah offered both characteristics. The aroma and taste shared notes of blackberry and currants. However, it was the familiar taste of cigar that made this wine memorable. Some slight peppery notes, which my wife accurately pointed out, rounded out this very good wine. It is deserving of a 90 point rating.

The final tasting in the flight was the Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Artemis (Cabernet Sauvignon). This was a pleasant wine to drink and it offered a very good amount of well developed blackberry and currant. It had a nice medium to medium-heavy body. I would give this wine 87 points because it was one dimensional, yet essentially pleasant. I am a huge fan of Stag’s Leap’s slightly older vintages (2000 and earlier), but recently I feel they have fallen from great to good. Again, this is all personal preference and my wife certainly enjoyed this wine.

Overall, Unums provided a wonderful escape from reality for a few hours. Stephen and Walter, our waiter, were very gracious with their knowledge and caring conversation. I would highly recommend Unums for your date night and hope you share a similar experience.

Information about Unums
Location: 47 E. Pearl St, Nashua
Phone: 603.621.6500
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 5:00-Close
www.unums.com

About Wine Ratings
95-100 Classic: A Phenomenal Wine!
90-94 Outstanding: A wine of excellent character and style
85-89 Very Good: A wine with some special qualities
83-84 Good: A solid well-made wine
< 83 Why bother?

One to try one to avoid (part deux)

2009-10-06T08:52:00.003-04:00

The dreary nature of this past weekend led me to partake in a couple bottles of wine. I selected a couple of random bottles to shake things up a little. Although they have the same grape in both of the wines, the conditions and blends make for two amazingly different experiences. The two wines we will be looking at today are from Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Rhône region of France and Atea in the Calatayud region of Spain.

Avoid:
2007, Evodia, Old Vine Garnacha, Calatayud, Spain - $10

This was an interesting wine from the onset. Grenache (or Garnacha in Spain) is by nature a spicy, berry forward grape that as a stand alone is surprising and very good when well crafted. However, in my opinion, it can range greatly in quality, which is the case with the Evodia.

The pigment is a beautiful dark purple/almost black, but that is where the exuberance ended. The nose of this wine was very disjointed with hints of wet stone/cinder block and an unusual cherry dominating with the traditional influence of spice and black pepper certainly evident. The palate took on sour cherry, spice, and oak. Contrary to other reviews that I read after, I found there to be some sharpness to this wine.

Overall, I give this wine 84 points, but I am not convinced that the 88 pts attributed to it by Wine Advocate and International Wine Cellar is justified. For $10 I guess you can give it a shot; however I would pass on it. It is very average and there are other wines in that range that I would look to first, but then again this is only my opinion.

Try:
2006, Domaine Roger Perrin, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône, France - $33

As is most Rhone wines, Grenache plays a primary role, however you will rarely find it as a stand alone. In this case, Grenache has been blended with Cinsault, Mourvédre, Syrah and a couple others to create this delicious wine. The Rhône has perfected the art of growing these grapes and mastering how to blend them. In many instances, you can find very inexpensive wines that taste of far higher quality. As far as Châteauneufs are concerned, the 2006 Roger Perrin is on the lower/middle side of cost. So how was it?

The hue shone of a very nice deep burgundy and the aroma poured forth straight from the bottle. The nose exhibited blackberry and spice, while the palate was alive with blackberry and cherry, with pepper and a little leather coming in later. Towards the end you could feel some of the heat that was kicked off by the alcohol. The berry finish was nice and long and the wine exuded a certain level of confidence and balance.

For a $33 Châteauneuf I was quite happy with this. It was by no means amazingly complex like its bigger siblings, but it was very pleasant and ready to drink now. I give this wine a 90 pt rating and would recommend it to anyone who asks.

Both of wine is available at the NH Liquor store off of Exit 6 (behind the Nashua Mall). If you have a chance to try them, let us know what you think!

Wine of the Week: Justin Cabernet Sauvignon

2009-10-05T07:24:00.002-04:00

Justin Vineyards, as I said many times before, is a wonderful expression of what California represents. They are innovative, they are Earth-friendly, they are focused on healthy living, and they are quality wine.

Justin is one of the hipper wine discoveries I have made. Currently they are going through the process of becoming certified biodynamic (using natural means to tend to the grapes on the vine). They have at their core the principle of taking care of the Earth, but they also take care of their employees. They have an on-site gym and strongly encourage participation in athletic competitions and physical activity.

Overall, I think this makes them very appealing as a company, but how is the wine? I have featured their ’05 Isosceles in a couple past columns and included it in a recent wine dinner that I picked the wines for. Hence, their upper-tier wines are terrific, but how about their entry level offering?

2006, Justin Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, California - $25

The 2006 Justin is a lovely California Cab. It is a really deep purple and has a nose that shows of the typical dark berries and then evolves to include some spice and leather. The palate is a little less complex than the nose. Blackberry, currants and strawberry are the most perceptible flavors with a little spice. The body is in the medium-full range and the tannins are firm, yet not too overpowering.

Overall this is a really good wine and my wife absolutely loved it (she said it three separate times)! Wine Enthusiast rated this 90 pts and I am going to up them to a 91-92, because the nose was great and the palate had nice depth in the berries. This wine would pair nicely with food, especially

Cork'd: a cool place for anyone who enjoys wine

2009-10-02T08:22:00.010-04:00

During my excursions into the world of wine, I have stumbled upon some good and horrid places to discuss and find information regarding different wines. Thanks to the hard work of the people at Cork’d (especially CEO Lindsay Ronga), wine lovers now have another fun and legitimate place to obtain information on wine prior to sinking a decent amount into a bottle.

A few weeks back my cousin sent me an email containing a link from TechCrunch of all places. It contained a piece written about the re-launch of the once popular, and then dormant, now bustling again Cork’d. The site was revived by king of the "sniffy sniff", Gary Vaynerchuk (Vay-ner-chuk), of Wine Library TV and Fox News fame. To me, Cork'd appears to be the lovechild of Facebook and Snooth, which is a good thing. Although Snooth is certainly the king in this arena for the time being, I feel that the leadership will have Cork'd nipping at their heels sooner rather than later.

The purpose of the site is to provide a moderated community for anyone who drinks wine. The content includes tasting notes, member profiles, grape info, featured wines and wineries, and so much more. It is also very well organized and the fact that profiles are attached to the ratings and comments is a welcomed feature as well. Due to this, members are accountable for what they say and how they act. This last point is a lot more significant than you may think.

So, if you like wine, you should definitely check Cork’d out and set up an account. It has proven to be a good reference and a cool way to interact with people that enjoy wine.

Fun Facts: Dom Pérignon

2009-09-30T16:59:00.005-04:00

Quite possibly the most famous Champagne and the most famous Benedictine monk, Pére Pérignon has been touted as the inventor of Champagne. Although the romantics and the French (I know that is a little redundant) stick to this story, the image of a lovable blind monk being the first to stumble upon this magical wine is unfortunately not true.

The process of converting still wine into sparkling was documented well before the famed monk laid claim. Christopher Merret, a British scientist, executed the first documented instance of voluntary secondary fermentation. Outside of his research, he did little to further improve upon his findings. That was not his objective; he was a scientist, not a winemaker. That job was left to Pére Pérignon.

Pére Pérignon truly earned his reputation as an innovator. His creation was referred to as le vin du Père Pérignon and it became the must have wine of the time. His innovations and his ability to elevate a wine to such heights that it can now only be claimed by one region in the world is why we celebrate him.

In the end, Dom Pérignon may not have been the first, but does it really matter?!

Sources/Interesting Reads:

http://www.champagneinfo.net/Productie/ChampagneHistorie/tabid/174/Default.aspx

http://www.domperignon.com/
http://www.winespectator.com/magazine/show/id/6599

P.S. - I am aware that I am blinking in the picture and look like a fool, but Dom is in the background an that makes me very cool.

Wine of the Week: Yalumba Shiraz-Viognier Barossa

2009-09-28T11:02:00.007-04:00

Yalumba Winery holds a sentimental place in the hearts of Australian wine lovers, as it is the oldest family-run winery in Australia. Yalumba was founded in 1849 by Samuel Smith, a British immigrant and brewer. He brought his family to Angaston in the pursuit of a new life. After purchasing a 30-acre parcel of land just beyond the southern-eastern boundary of Angaston, Smith and his son, Sidney, began planting the first vines by moonlight.

Yalumba, which is aboriginal for the land all around, has a rich history of producing very well-composed wines at numerous price thresholds. To make a comparison, Yalumba is to Australia, as E. Guigal is to the Rhone (France). From top to bottom, they offer tremendous wines from all over the region.

My favorite line of their wines has been their Hand Picked line. Lately, I have been drawn to their Barossa line as well. This region offers terrific growing conditions for Shiraz, allowing it to develop numerous layers of flavor and vibrancy.

2006, Yalumba, Shiraz-Viognier, Barossa, Australia - $16

The 2006 shows a beautifully pure purple hue. The nose is of vibrant red berries with a hint of pepper. The palate is very pleasant, with strawberry and blueberry the most evident. The tannins are very soft and there is a slightly perceptibly amount of heat prior to the medium length finish.

Overall this wine is very good and with its nice balance, it will accompany a meal of pork or chicken perfectly. I am rating this 90 and Wine Spectator gave it a 91. It should age well for five or so years, but I like its freshness and would drink it now.

This wine is available at the NH Liquor store off of Exit 6 (behind the Nashua Mall).

Athletes & Wine: The NFL

2009-09-25T10:05:00.014-04:00

Wine Spectator recently ran a column, Are You Ready for Some Football (Wines)? , that is certainly right up many NFL fans’ alley. They highlighted some of the former players that have taken heavily to a wine lifestyle since retiring. It is surprising to see some of the names involved and hopefully this list continues to grow.

For those of you who doubt that an NFL player can make great wine, don’t think that they are going it alone. They have enlisted great winemakers to either mentor or partner with them in their journey. Winemakers such as Thomas Brown (of Schrader), Chris Figgins (of Leonetti), Rob Lawson (of Ghost Block) and the legendary Ed Sbragia (of Beringer), highlight the wealth of winemaking knowledge involved. This should not be surprising as great players realize the importance of having a great team (both on and off the field).

Unfortunately, current NFL rules forbid active players from discussing/promoting alcohol (it is simply an endorsement situation, the NFL just wants to be in control of it). Just imagine the active role wine has in many of these players lives, be it well-developed cellars, part-ownership in restaurants and wineries, and possibly as part of their investment portfolios. I look forward to hearing more as the years progress.

A couple weeks back I wrote a piece about current NBA player Zaza Pachulia’s recent purchase of trendy Atlanta wine restaurant Eno. As I alluded to then, any time an athlete embraces the wine lifestyle, I find it very appealing. Athletes have a way of appealing to most casual wine drinkers in a way that Robert Parker, Jim Laube and Hugh Johnson simply cannot. If you said “who?” to the names just mentioned, then I have proved my point. There is the potential that this type of exposure to non-wine drinkers will hopefully convert a few new wine lovers to our side.

I encourage you to read the Wine Spectator piece; it is a nice synopsis of former greats that have succumbed to the allure of the vine.

Listed below is a condensed list of former NFL personnel that are now involved in winemaking:

Charles Woodson (Current Green Bay Packer CB) – TwentyFour Wines
Rick Mirer (former Seattle Seahawk and Oakland Raider QB) – Mirror Wine
Drew Bledsoe (former New England Patriot and Buffalo Bill QB) – Doubleback Winery
Joe Montana (Hall of Fame quarterback of the San Francisco 49ers) – Montagia
Dick Vermeil (Legendary NFL coach) – Vermeil Wines
Mike Ditka (Hall of Fame player and coach) – Mike Ditka Wines
Carmen Policy (Former San Francisco 49ers president) – Casa Piena

Image Sources:
Charles Woodson - http://deadspin.com/5026974/nfl-to-charles-woodson-only-we-can-endorse-alcohol
Drew Bledsoe - http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/Wine-Talk-Drew-Bledsoe_4361

Wine of the Week: Seghesio Zinfandel

2009-09-24T08:02:00.007-04:00

The Seghesio family can trace their winemaking roots back to the vineyards of 1800s Italy. That is was when Edoardo Seghesio decided to pursue a new life in Sonoma County, which at the time was the home of a flourishing Italian community. Like other Italian immigrants at the time, Edoardo recognized the potential that this area had for creating terrific wines that reminded them of home. In the late 1890s, he purchased the land that would spawn Seghesio’s signature wine, Zinfandel.

A lot of time has passed since the days of Edoardo, but the family name is still realizing his dreams of creating amazing wines. Since 1999 their Sonoma County Zinfandel has scored 88 or higher (per Wine Spectator's ratings) and their other wines continuously represent their drive for excellence. In 2007 their Sonoma County Zinfandel became possibly one of the best value wines that I have come across (it was rated 93 point and only cost $22). That is until I tried their 2008 vintage!

2008, Seghesio, Zinfandel, Sonoma, California - $23

This wine was completely on par with the quality exuded in the 2007 vintage, but was different in a few key ways. The smokiness is less perceptible and the subtleties of the 2008 make it a little more interesting.

The wine hits your senses right out of the bottle when you notice the super deep plum color of this wine. From there, your sense of smell is hit with the distinct aromas of dark cherry and blackberry capped off with just a hint of spice. It is in the mouth where things really come together. The cherry melds into a beautifully subtle jaminess that is lined with very mellow oak. Everything here is in balance, which is what makes this wine great. One would never guess that this wine is over 15% alcohol, due to the fact that there is no perceptible heat. This is a truly harmonious Zinfandel.

The 2007 has not yet been rated by Wine Spectator, but I am giving it a 92 point rating that could possibly become a 94 with a year or two of cellaring. This will pair perfectly with anything from pizza to filet mignon. Please make a point of trying this wine!

This wine is available at the NH Liquor store off of Exit 6 (behind the Nashua Mall).

Welcome to my wine world!

2009-09-23T08:33:00.010-04:00

As published on 9/23 in the Nashua Telegraph (click link to view Telegraph version).

When I first proposed writing a wine column to the Telegraph, I did so for a few reasons.

First, as a restaurant/personal wine consultant, I hold a firm belief that wine has a way of elevating life's special moments. This belief may sound overly romanticized, but hear me out.

Have you ever had people over for dinner, or gone out to dinner with someone special or a group of friends? Of course you have. Now have you noticed how those same occasions are noticeably different when a nice bottle of wine is served?

Catch my drift?

Wine has special qualities that elevate a family meal into a feast or a chat around the table into a brainstorming session about fulfilling your dreams.

The second reason is to counteract what I have experienced from the beginning of my own wine journey. Wine has been the object of some very pretentious people who make it far too complicated. My goal is to show you that wine is simply wine – and it is meant to be enjoyed by all. The appropriate level of involvement is up to you. Never let anyone who thinks he or she knows more about wine make you feel inferior for not knowing!

Finally, there are truly special things going on in our neck of the woods regarding wine. My intent is to introduce, or re-introduce, you to local wine-related gems and review some of the restaurant wine experiences available in the area. No need to worry, restaurateurs! (Well, no need to worry if you offer a good experience for your patrons.) I will also be sharing my perspective on goings-on in the wine world, including some delicious and not-so-delicious reviews of readily available wines. I will also be offering practical advice for those who appreciate and/or collect wine.

Let me begin by offering the review of a wonderful wine that I recently enjoyed: 2006 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $44.

Domaine Drouhin has a very rich background. It is the product of the expansion of French wine houses into the new world. Maison Joseph Drouhin, of Beaune, France, had been producing celebrated pinot noir since the 1880s. In 1987, it sought to pursue its own expansion when it purchased 225 acres of what was then a Christmas-tree farm.

The 2006 Domaine Drouhin is one of my favorite pinot noirs. The aroma is of beautiful rich cherry that is mirrored on the palate along with a hint of spice. The tannins are noticeable; however, they are well integrated and somewhat delicate. This is a very thoughtfully made, well-crafted wine that is confident in structure and complexity. It is very much a Burgundy-styled Pinot Noir.

Wine ratings issued by a reputable publication serve as a barometer of the quality. As you will find out, I don't normally fall in line with the Wine Spectator reviews a majority of the time. I feel they are tightwads in some instances, but then again, it is only one person's rating/analysis. WS gave it a 90 for the 2006 vintage, and I almost feel slighted for them! This wine is very comfortably a 92 pointer – 90-94 points indicate a great wine – and I think this will only get better with time. Wine & Spirits gave the DD a 93. I think this illustrates that ratings are highly personal! I hope you have a chance to enjoy this terrific wine.

All of the wines featured in ongoing reviews are readily available at the New Hampshire Liquor Store off Exit 6 behind the Nashua Mall.

Until next time, cheers!

Be educated when looking at a wine list!

2009-09-21T10:28:00.012-04:00

Few things irk me more than restaurants that mislead their patrons regarding their wine offering. Whether they do it intentionally or not is not the issue. In my opinion, wine should not be a compromise and you should get what you pay for. Unfortunately this is sometimes not the case.

Many restaurants rely on big names to appeal to wine drinkers and with good reason. A majority of these big names have amassed good reputations throughout the years and continue to produce very good wines. However, for some of them, their reputation no longer is representative of what they produce.

Restaurateurs are sometimes guilty of romanticizing, being too business minded, being ignorant, or being lazy in terms of finding out the true quality of the wine they offer. This leg work and honest evaluation should be required prior to the two to three time mark-up of a bottle. We should have the assurance that the mark-up is justified.

The objective of this article is not to blast local restaurants or restaurateurs. Although they should look at their lists closely and ask themselves, “am I offering my patrons the best possible experience by offering this wine?” Rather, this article is meant to inform the public of wines that should be avoided (in my opinion), because their lack of quality does not justify the high prices they demand. The oddity in all of this is that the wines that prove to be the main culprits are on numerous lists around the Nashua area!

Here are some wines to avoid, due to overly inflated prices in return for generally mediocre quality.

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars – All recent wines. Unfortunately this former giant still has a strong reputation in the general public. This is why you find their wines on many lists and this is why they still demand higher prices. Wine aficionados are aware that they have fallen-off heavily in the past decade. Their wines prior to this decade are still aging very well.

Duckhorn – Merlot. On rare occasion they have a good vintage. However, their variable quality does nothing to justify very high prices. Add to this that there are so many other options out there, why take the risk? Read about one of my Duckhorn experiences here.

Opus One – This wine demands far too much for the quality. Recently their vintages have improved, but if you are looking to shell out a week’s pay, you can do better. This is a better wine to purchase at a wine shop or liquor store and enjoy at home (that way you are only parting with a couple day’s pay). Do not pay the mark-up!

Joseph Drouhin – Burgundy Whites (trust me it makes sense). They make the list for typically being far too overpriced on wine lists. The quality is typically good, but for the price other whites are more appealing.

Michael & David Phillips – Almost all wines. They are very big in the area for some reason. Outside of their recent Petite Syrah (which was very enjoyable), I have been very underwhelmed by the wines they offer.

Here are some wines that I recommend which are readily available at local restaurants.

Justin – Isosceles. My favorite “higher-end” value wine out there. Personally, I would look for the 2005 or 2006. If you are going to get a prime-cut steak, pair this with your dinner! The best price locally: Giorgio’s in Milford & Bedford Village Inn (also available at C.R. Sparks, Michael Timothy’s & Unums).

Caymus – Napa Valley Cabernet. You almost never have to worry about quality with this wine. If you are questioning which wine to get and this is within your range, it will be a safe bet. Available at: Bedford Village Inn, Michael Timothy’s & Saffron Bistro.

Robert Stemmler – Pinot Noir. For the price, I feel they offer some of the better Pinot Noirs available in local restaurants. Available at: Bedford Village Inn, C.R. Sparks, Michael Timothy’s & Unums.

Conundrum – White Blend. This is a fruity and crisp, food friendly wine that is typically offered at a comfortable price. Best price locally: Bedford Village Inn (also available at C.R. Sparks).

Zinfandels – Red not white! Typically, Zinfandel offers some of the best values on a wine list. They are food friendly and pair well with any red meat, as well as grilled meatier fish, poultry, pork and vegetables. Personally, I would never pay more than $65 for a bottle of Zinfandel (even at a restaurant), because you can get great deals for less. Best deals locally: Seghesio Family at Bedford Village Inn & Rosenblum at C.R. Sparks.

I hope this helps you the next time you are looking at a wine list and thinking “is this bottle worth it?” Due to the economic situation, I chose to withhold the names of the restaurants that carry these poor wines. My ego does not permit me to believe that I would have an impact on a restaurant’s bottom line, but just in case.

My intent is to help you be informed and help you avoid wasting money. To strengthen this point, I urge you to do a little research if you plan on having a bottle while dining out. Look at their menu and wine list online. If there are a couple bottles you are interested in, run them through Cellar Tracker or Cork’d to learn what others thought. You would not buy a $60 pair of jeans or a $250 suit without trying them on first would you? Then why pay $60 to $250 (or higher) for a bottle of wine without knowing if they are any good?!

Do not forget that wine is all relative to your personal taste. However, a little information and guidance can go a long way in helping you avoid a poor wine experience. When it is all said and done, we want to have the best experience possible when dining-out at a nice restaurant.

Weekend Escape: Flag Hill Winery

2009-09-17T15:42:00.009-04:00

Most people do not associate wineries, vineyards and winemaking with New Hampshire. This is with good reason; we have very fertile soil, it rains too much and our winters last eight months. These are not exactly premium wine producing conditions, but somehow Flag Hill Winery makes it work.

Since 1996, Flag Hill has been producing wine on their beautiful estate in Lee, NH. During this time they have been able to find ways to adapt their vines to the harsh and variable New England winters. Like many New England wineries, Flag Hill has to rely on unique varietals or grapes and partially on fruit wines. For those of you who do not prefer fruit wines, they have a nice line of more traditional wines as well.

Expect to see names such as Vignoles and Marechal Foch stocked on their shelves rather than Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. Do not be dismayed, they make some comforting and carefully crafted wines. These varietals have been selected due to the way they adapt themselves to the colder climate and overly generous soil. The most notable of these unique varietals are the Cayuga and Seyval Blanc, which were a crisp and vibrant revelation. However, it was the North River Port that was the biggest surprise of all. The spices, almond and caramel jump from this six year, oak-aged delight!

Every year, Flag Hill hosts a Harvest Fest. They welcome guests into their vineyard to help them bring in the grapes. Typically, tickets for this event are around $10 per person. It takes place towards the end of September or early October. If you are looking for something fun to do, make this it. It is not often that someone can say that they have helped in a winery’s grape harvest! If you are interested in attending, be sure to sign-up to receive the details and the date of the event (dates change year to year depending on when the grapes are ready for harvesting).

If you are looking for a unique wine experience, Flag Hill is definitely worth the quick drive (about 40 minutes from Nashua). You will leave with a renewed appreciation for New Hampshire wine and hopefully with a bottle of their North River Port!

Flag Hill Winery
297 North River Road
Lee, NH 03861
603-659-2949

A Glass Half Full

2009-09-16T15:38:00.005-04:00

Today, the Nashua Telegraph announced the launch of my bi-weekly wine column A Glass Half Full. It was announced both in print and on the web in the Feast section. You can view today's announcement entitled New Wine Columnist to Debut by clicking the link.

Mark it on your calendars, my first column will run on Wednesday, September 23rd and will be an introduction of things to come.

Thank you for your continued support!

2009: Harvest Report (up to this point)

2009-09-16T08:36:00.017-04:00

It appears that God is smiling on us this year. From all indications, the 2009 harvests from across Europe and the US are ringing the sounds of excellence. Today, we will be focusing on three of the major collecting regions of Napa Valley, Bordeaux and Burgundy. It would be amazing if we looked back at 2009 as a historic vintage for numerous regions around the world. All indications are point to this being a possibility.

Napa Valley

According to a report in the St. Helena Star, the Napa Grapegrowers’ conference, reported that weather conditions this year have been almost perfect. Matt Taylor, the winegrower at the prestigious Araujo Estates, was not shy when it came to his excitement. He stated that 2009 has had an incredible growing season and that the grapes behold a beautiful acidity.

As of this past weekend, the weather continues to bless the harvest of 2009. According to the Napa Valley Registry, John Ruel of Trefethen Vineyards & Winery commented that the warm weather continues to speed ripening! On Tuesday, we will be bringing in our first chardonnay of the year, some beautiful Wente Musqué clone (a clone of Sauvignon Blanc) that is just singing with flavor.

Also, we received our first major comment about Cabernets from Volker Eisele of Eisele Vineyards. He said that temperatures in the vineyards dropped to 44 degrees during the night and daytime temperatures were around 80 degrees. This is the best weather for good color development in the reds. He finally went on to say that the harvest is on schedule for Cabernet, but will not be early due to recent cooler weather.

There have also been a lot of whispers of an over abundance of Cabernet and Pinot Noir grapes. Add to this that the market (for Pinot Noir) is finally slowing down, according to an interview in Wine Spectator of Dennis Martin, VP of Winemaking at Fetzer. These facts could potentially make for some good deals for bargain hunting consumers down the road.

Bordeaux

Expectations are equally optimistic in Bordeaux. According to reports from Decanter, the harvest of 2009 is being compared to the historic harvest of 2005. Other then a May hail storm, which damaged a decent amount of vines (with the worst damage occurring on the Right Bank), the conditions have been optimal.

Château Teyssier’s Jonathan Malthus said that in terms of quality, we are in the best position since 2005. Three weeks back, Château Carbonnieux’s Eric Perrin told Decanter that we are bringing in grapes of great delicacy and freshness, when speaking of the Sauvignon Blanc harvest. Perrin also mentioned that this years harvest is around one week to 10 days in advance of 2008 for both whites and reds, with larger quantity and healthier grapes.

Burgundy

In Burgundy, the expectations seem to be even loftier. Some of the wine houses are even declaring that 2009 will be a magnificent vintage for both the whites and reds. The grapes were small and they've developed from this perfectly through the summer. This is easily the best year since 2005, said Jean-Paul Durup of Domaine Jean Durup.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir producer Domaine Jacques Prieur’s owner Martin Prieur stated, we're looking forward to a very fine vintage, very balanced. Considering the stubbornness of Pinot Noir, these optimal growing conditions are providing a pivotal first-step towards a legendary wine.

In the cases of Napa, Bordeaux and Burgundy this year has provided a terrific harvest season thus far. However, as exciting as this all sounds, wine houses are not out of the woods just yet. In California there is always the potential of continued wildfires to contend with and there is always the possibility of a wet September/early October (which could dilute the concentration of the grapes).

As it stands, the weather since these articles were written has been optimal for harvest, as well as the final leg of ripening for the reds. If the negative variables continue to be held at bay, then it will be up to the talented winemakers to create terrific wines from a very exciting batch of grapes!

*Update*
Based on the most recent weather reports (9/16) from The Weather Channel, Napa Valley looks to be the best positioned with no rain in sight and temperature variation on the low and high ends that are very promising. Both Bordeaux and Burgundy have some rain in the forecast, the severity and length will be key factors to watch going forward. The temperatures also look to be dipping slightly. Let us hope that a few days of poor weather does not undo the promising foundation that has been laid.

Stay tuned for an in-depth report following the conclusion of the harvest season!

Sources:
Decanter –
http://www.decanter.com/news/288270.html
http://www.decanter.com/news/288418.html
http://www.decanter.com/news/288585.html
Napa Valley Register-
http://www.napavalleyregister.com/articles/2009/09/13/wine/doc4aa9e477b508d696249324.txt
St. Helena Star -http://www.sthelenastar.com/articles/2009/08/20/business/local/doc4a8c8db3e1c2a789907169.txt
Wine Spectator - http://www.winespectator.com/magazine/show/id/40590

A great way to learn...occasionally pick at random

2009-09-15T10:22:00.008-04:00

This past weekend I happened to stop into Wine Society to pick up a couple bottles. Wine Society has a nice selection and offers labels that are not readily available anywhere in the area. While meandering around the racks, looking for a Spanish wine, I spotted a bottle of Portuguese wine. At $12 a bottle I figured it was worth a try.

The bottle selected was from Douro, a world famous wine region, but not for the typical wine that most are accustomed. Douro is the home of Port, which is a heavily aged and fortified wine. For many years, Port dominated the grape demand in this region (mainly Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca and Tempranillo, known in Portugal as Tinta Roriz). This left only leftover grapes for the unfortified wines. Times and tastes have changed. With the recent influx of capital, many Port producing wineries have given unfortified wines a more prominent place in their portfolios. This move has proved beneficial, as Portuguese wines are an ever improving value offering in foreign markets.

Picking a bottle at random can be a rewarding or awful experience. So where does this experience fall?

2007, Castello D’Alba Colheita, Red Blend, Douro, Portugal - $12

The Colheita was a medium-full bodied wine that exhibited a very clean, almost shimmering, ruby red complexion. The aroma was of earthy dark berries with an undertone of oak. The palate was fresh and lively with plum and cherries dominating with very good acidity. The wine possessed very pleasant warmth towards the end.

It is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca. There is very little information about this wine available, but I was happy with the selection and would rate it at 87 points. It is a very pleasant sipping wine and would go well with pasta or leaner cuts of meat.

If you are ever in the area, stop by Wine Society (Amherst St in Nashua, NH) for a unique bottle of wine. Being random is a great way to learn new things about different regions and your tastes!

Source:
- Johnson, Hugh; Jancis Robinson. The World Atlas of Wine: Sixth Edition. Mitchell Beazley. Pgs. 216-218.

Wine of the Week: Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc

2009-09-14T09:27:00.007-04:00

Merry Edwards, as a winery, is still very new to the game. They were incorporated in 1997 and started to produce wine only in the early 2000s. Although new, do not let this fool you. In 1973, Merry Edwards became one of the first woman winemakers in California. Thus, she is certainly not inexperienced and brings a very unique approach to her wines. Many wineries are focused on the bottom line, while she states that their focus is on gentle, traditional, labor intensive winemaking practices. You can clearly experience this difference in their wines.

Today’s Sauvignon Blanc is of the vintage following their classic 2007 which was dubbed by James Laube of Wine Spectator as, “the greatest Sauvignon Blanc I’ve ever had from anywhere.” It garnered a very prestegious 96 points.

Can the 2008 possibly follow-up such a wonderful vintage?

2008, Merry Edwards, Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, California – $35

The 2008, like the previous vintages, was created from Musqué (a Sauvignon Blanc clone) and then barrel fermented. These two factors give this wine a very nice medium to full body feel, compared to most Sauvignon Blancs that offer a lean and crisp feel. The nose was of very mellow lemon zest with a hint of lilac. The palate offered a nice array of fruit beginning with green apple and brown pear and then introducing grapefruit towards the end. From nose to mouth this is a wonderfully complex wine and the acidity is mouthwatering.

The 2008 is a terrific response to the question posed earlier. This is the most unique Sauvignon Blanc I have had. Due to the lush acidity and supple body, this will pair terrifically with any seafood. Personally, the seafood dish picked should be very clean and possibly offer a light citrus sauce to fully compliment this wine.

Wine Spectator is yet to rate the 2008, but when/if they do I am sure it will have another terrific rating. To me, this wine is a classic. It will certainly age very well for about 5-7 years due to its crafting and natural traits. I rate this wine 95 points, because it is the best white wine I have ever had.

The Sopranos in Nashua

2009-09-11T09:04:00.009-04:00

A couple of big names from HBO’s The Sopranos hit the NH Liquor Store off of exit 6 in Nashua yesterday. John Ventimiglia (who played Artie Bucco) and Vincent Pastore (who played Salvatore 'Big Pussy' Bonpensiero) took a few hours to promote the release of The Sopranos Wine.

A very good sized crowd turned up to welcome these iconic stars of one of TV’s all-time greatest shows. Both stars were in good spirits and cracked jokes and posed for countless pictures, while signing bottles of Sopranos wine and anything else people shoved in front of them.

As my wife and I approached the table, we overheard some terrific banter.

Fan at the table: What would you guys pair with this wine?
Big Pussy: Pasta Fagioli
Person: Oh yeah
Artie: Well it’s better than a colonoscopy.
Big Pussy: That doesn’t sound fun.
Artie: It’s nothing, they knock you out.

Then it was our turn.

Big Pussy: (to Christine) Hey Honey!
Big Pussy: (to Me, less emphatically) Hey Honey.
Me: (To Artie) He is rather flirtatious isn’t he?
Artie: Yes he is.

Great times!

Ventimiglia and Pastore were refreshingly down-to-Earth and the wines were better then I expected. The varietals available were Pinot Noir, Chianti and Pinot Grigio. I am going to hold off final judgment on the wines until I have a chance to try them in a proper glass.*

According to their website, the wines were created to celebrate wine’s time-honored place in Italian family tradition. The Sopranos Wines line-up also includes a Chianti Classico and Riserva for those who appreciate wine and are not just looking for a novelty bottle. Hopefully they will be available locally soon.

All in all, the local wine/liquor scene in Nashua is being actively promoted. Along with the Soprano cast members, actor Dan Ackroyd was in town a few months back promoting his wine label. And in two weeks Danny Devito will be in town promoting his limóncello. Any chance of getting Francis Ford Coppola out here?

*The good people at Martignetti Distributing opted to use cups similar to those that accompany a bottle of cough syrup! Good job promoting your wines (and by good job I mean horrid job). You are lucky that Ventimiglia and Pastore are charismatic and excessively popular.

Fun Fact: Wine Origins

2009-09-10T08:12:00.010-04:00

Most people think of France when they think of the birthplace of fine wine. In many respects they may be correct. The French certainly have perfected the craft, but were they the first?

For years, historians, archaeologists and scientists have been trying to isolate the origins of wine. Popular belief is that wine originated in the Middle East or immediate surrounding areas. The most common countries associated with the birth of wine are Turkey, Armenia, Georgia and Iran.

Although there is no disputing the fact that the wine consumed at that time would barely resemble what is consumed now, there is physical proof that inhabitants during that time created, stored and attempted to age wine!

There have been vessels unearthed which contained residue of stored wine and preservative agents, the oldest of which dates back 8,000 years. It was unearthed in what is today the Republic of Georgia.

Since then, many of the countries associated with wine’s origins have gone through transformations which have shifted there interest away from wine production. The most notable event would be the spread of Islam (in the 700s A.D.), a religion that forbids the consumption of alcohol.

The Greeks and later the Romans had no such restrictions and gladly picked up the mantel. They continuously sought to improve their wines and even laid the foundations of what would become the current wine strongholds of France and Italy. When these empires expanded, the presence of wine expanded along with them. The Romans would not only bring their own vines, but also cultivate wild vines growing in the different regions.

Regardless of its origins, wine has always been a very integral part of civilization. It has always lent itself to improving the quality of life of everyone who consumed it out of appreciation and not excess.

Sources (Text):
- Johnson, Hugh; Jancis Robinson. The World Atlas of Wine: Sixth Edition. Mitchell Beazley. Pgs.12 & 285.
- http://www.independent.co.uk/news/science/now-thats-what-you-call-a-real-vintage-professor-unearths-8000yearold-wine-577863.html
Source (Image):
- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Satyrs_vine_press_BM_D550.jpg

Wine of the Week: Buehler Zinfandel

2009-09-09T08:52:00.007-04:00

Zinfandel is a varietal that is horribly overlooked. Many people bypass the Zinfandel aisle for the more common red varietals (i.e. – Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, etc). However, as I covered in the Cab rules supreme article from last month, there are a lot of quality, unique wines that get looked over.

Zinfandel is the one grape that US consumers should really embrace. For many years it was considered to be California’s only native grape. Although DNA research has shown that it is Croatian in origin, there is no doubt that Napa and Sonoma County winemakers have perfected this varietal. Besides this, Zinfandel is also very food-friendly, easy to drink by itself, bold and overall inexpensive! The best Zinfandels will typically run you $30-40, while there are plenty of mediocre Cabernets and Merlots that start at $30-45. I hope you heard that Stag’s Leap and Duckhorn!

I will now step down from my soapbox and offer you my recommendation.

2007, Buehler, Zinfandel, Napa Valley - $19

The aroma lofts pleasantly of cherry and strawberry along with some slight herbal notes. It awakens the palate with jammy strawberry, raspberry and blackberry flavors. It has a very supple body with nice warmth and a long, flavorful finish. This wine pairs perfectly with BBQ and grilled foods, as well as a nice steak. Gary Vaynerchuk will be happy with this Zinfandel as it is not an Oak Monster!

Wine Spectator gives the 2007 Buehler a 90 and I give it a 91. It is not an overly complex wine, but the generous jammy fruit and long finish that it offers is terrific.

The next time you are out, look for this wine or the 2007 Seghesio Family Zinfandel from Sonoma (if you can find it!) . Your taste buds will thank you!

Happy Anniversary!

2009-09-08T09:03:00.027-04:00

I thought that this would be the proper forum to wish my wife, Christine, a Happy 2nd Anniversary.

Christine is an amazing woman and has been exceptionally supportive and patient of my endeavors. Ever since we were married, she has been continually growing in her appreciation of fine wine. I attribute a lot of this to Olivier Magny of Ô Chateau, who got us even more excited about French wine while on this trip.

The day after our wedding, we boarded a plane leaving for Paris and began what would be an amazing life experience. Today’s entry is our way to look back at a few of the memories and a way to share them with you.

On the plane ride home, we each made a list of our favorite things about our honeymoon. We hope you enjoy them!

Christine's List

Arc d'Triomph
Bicycles everywhere!
Chanel

Decorative Old Buildings
Diversity
Eiffel Tower
Lancel (She loves her Lance)
Mercedes Taxis
Mona Lisa
Scottish People in Kilts (In Paris during the Rugby World Cup)

Seine River Cruise
Vineyards of Champagne

Erol's List
Arc d'Triomph

Champs-Élysées
Eiffel Tower
Everyone Riding Bikes

Louvre
Moët & Chandon
Mona Lisa
Ô Chateau (Olivier!)
Rediculous Cars (Both tiny and super high-end)
Unique Fashions (Urban Myth: The Smiling Parisian Woman)

Death by Chocolate and Raspberries

2009-09-07T20:59:00.016-04:00

Ingredients

1 - Store bought pizza dough

6 oz - German Baker's Chocolate 45-50% cocoa (finely chopped)

4 oz - Semi-Sweet Baker's Chocolate 50-65% cocoa (finely chopped)

2 tbs - Sugar

3 tbs - Brown Sugar

2 tbs - Butter

1 cup - Coconut

1 cup - Fresh Raspberries

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Roll the pizza dough to desired shape and size on a floured cooking sheet. Put dough in the oven for 4 minutes.

While the dough is in oven, melt the butter and then combine with sugar and brown sugar. Remove pizza dough from oven and brush the entire surface with the butter and sugar mixture. Once all of the mixture is applied, cover the pizza with the German and semi-sweet chocolate. Before returning to the oven, sprinkle the 1 cup of coconut evenly across the top of the pizza. Return to the oven for 6 more minutes.

Remove the pizza and then, using a butter knife, spread the melted chocolate evenly across the surface of the pizza, leaving the outer crust exposed.

Apply the fresh raspberries and enjoy!

5 minutes later enjoy your sugar rush and subsequent sugar coma!

Athletes & Wine: Zaza Pachulia

2009-09-06T09:29:00.009-04:00

As a former athlete and a wine lover, it always interests me to see athletes getting involved in the world of wine. There are countless examples, from Drew Bledsoe starting his own winery (Doubleback in Washington), to David Beckham's love affair with Far Niente's Cabernet Sauvignons, to former pro-cyclist Jonathan Vaughters becoming an honorary member of L'Echansonnerie des Papes (the keyholders of Chateauneauf). There are many fun and intriguing stories of pro-athletes succumbing to the allure of wine.

This latest example is close to my heart. As a restaurant wine consultant, I truly appreciate when restaurant owners try to improve their patrons' experiences whenever possible. Such is the case of Zaza Pachulia, center for the NBA's Atlanta Hawks. According to an article in Wine Spectator, he has recently purchased Atlanta's Eno. His intent is to introduce some wines from his homeland of Georgia (yes, Georgia is also a country). To me, there is nothing better than offering a unique, cultural experience. Kudos to Zaza!

Now, if only Hedo Turkoglu would become a restauranteur in Toronto and introduce some Turkish wines!

There's nothing like an older bottle of wine

2009-09-04T08:15:00.011-04:00

1991, Simi Reserve, Alexander Valley, California

The Simi Reserve was still alive and well, although it is in that last quarter of its life. This was somewhat of a surprise based on what I had read prior to opening it and the conditions in which it was stored. In 1995, Wine Spectator's most discerning palate, James Laube, said it was supple and harmonious, with well-focused cherry, currant, mineral and spice notes that lead to firm tannins and an excellent, long finish. This ample California Cabernet needs to age into 1998 or 1999 to show its best. This would put its peak from 1998-2001 before starting to fade.

After tasting this last evening I would say that this is just past its peak (by 3-4 years). The 1991 Simi Reserve offered the color and body that would not reflect the fact that this wine is old enough to vote. The meniscus (outer ring) was of garnet but overall the wine still radiated a dark plum hue.

It had a medium to full-bodied feel, which still offered a nice dose of fruit on the nose and palate. The aroma jumped of prunes that folded nicely into saddle leather. At the very end, the nose put forth a nice amount of wet peat moss. The palate was of matured blackberry and cherry that evolved into plum, seemingly with traces of menthol (?). The tannins were completely mellowed out by this point.

This wine still has a good amount to offer and should drink pretty well for at least 3 more years. The original Laube tasting in 1992 was scored an 88, with the 1995 tasting scoring a 92. I would put this in the 90-91 range, because this wine still has some terrific qualities.

Although this wine will be extremely hard to come by, I feel that it is important to try older wines if wine is a passion of yours. It gives you a completely different experience and appreciation. Also, older wines make terrific birthday and anniversary gifts. Imagine opening a wine from your birth year, wow!

Note – when looking at projected time in wine ratings, the rule of thumb is as follows:

Let's use this wine as an example:
1995 (date published) – 1998 (date of peak) = 3 (years) + 1998 (date of peak) = 1998-2001 (peak drinking time)

This just goes to show you that estimating a peak drinking time is not an exact science. These expert palates are simply using what the wine is showing at the time and trying to put some practical advice forward.

Fun Fact: Fumé Blanc

2009-09-03T09:24:00.007-04:00

When you walk down the aisles of your local wine or liquor store, you may find yourself in the Sauvignon Blanc or California Whites section and find yourself looking at a bottle of Fumé Blanc. This may provoke the question, “what the heck type of wine is this?”

Fumé Blanc is a made-up marketing name created by the Robert Mondavi. In his memoires, A Harvest of Joy, he explained that he created the name for two reasons. He wished to disassociate his winery’s drier, somewhat Loire-style, Sauvignon Blancs from the unpopular sweeter version that was readily available in California. The second reason is that he found "Fumé Blanc" to be far easier to say than Sauvignon Blanc, thus more approachable to consumers. The name was a jumble of the Loire Valley (France) term “les blancs fumés.”

To test the phonetic appeal of the term, they released the wine in test batches. The first was labeled with Sauvignon Blanc and the second with Fumé Blanc. Guess which term sold more?

This marketing innovation turned out to be pure genius. Robert Mondavi Winery saw a substantial increase in Fumé Blanc sales after the rebranding.

Even to this day, Mondavi Fumé Blanc continues to be a terrific California Sauvignon Blanc for a very reasonable price (around $20). A couple other Fumé Blanc names to keep an eye out for are: Chateau St. Jean ($13) and Grgich Hills ($30).

Wine of the Week: Gemtree "Uncut" Shiraz

2009-09-01T08:43:00.010-04:00

2007, Gemtree Uncut, Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia - $20-25

Gemtree is a very young, hip, organic boutique winery from one of Australia’s most renowned Shiraz regions. It was launched in 1998 and has since been led by winemaker Mike Brown, who joined Gemtree from the terrific wine producer d'Arenberg.

Due to a severe draught in 2007, the wines of their Uncut blocks ended up being very powerful and of very low yields. For those of you not familiar with what goes into growing a wine grape, years of very little rain can be terrific for wine. During a draught, vines are forced to fight for every bit of moisture. This struggle to survive leads the vines deeper into the earth and contributes to a wines complexity. Also, grapes during these years are very concentrated due to the fact that they are not diluted with an abundance of water.

The 2007 Uncut is a very powerful, berry forward wine of very deep color. On the nose you get some ripe blueberry and cherry which is mirrored on the palate. After that initial hit of berries you then may get the hints of oak imparted by the barrel aging. The acidity and mild tannins truly shine through. Due to its structure and acidity, this is a very food friendly wine. These are the reasons I selected this for the wine list at Juniper's at the Wildflower Inn (Lyndonville, VT).

Wine Spectator has not rated the 2007 as of yet, but past vintages have scored out in the 88-92 range. I feel that this wine is a very solid 92 point Shiraz, which would also make it a terrific value!

What a night, what a meal!

2009-08-31T08:26:00.016-04:00

A group of us got together this past Saturday for an incredible night of food, wine and camaraderie. A couple months ago I proposed having a wine dinner, during which the meals prepared would be pared with a wine to show each other off. I have been doing these Wine Extravaganza dinners with some other friends and was hoping to show how this concept really makes for a special evening with this group.

As a group, we are truly lucky (in terms of culinary experience) to have a chef and a truly gifted cook. You add these two knowledge-bases together and it is a recipe for something memorable. The wines were certainly showcased, but the dishes were equal in imagination and flavor.

The menu was the result of two very talented chefs. Jason Berkman (pictured to the right, executive chef at Legal Sea Foods, Burlington) and Chris Baker were the ones responsible for creating the dishes that paired with the wines I selected.

The result was nothing less then extraordinary. We had great food, great wine, great conversation and to cap it off, a great cigar.

Below is the menu with wine pairings (with tasting notes and ratings). If you have a chance, you must try a couple of these dishes and/or wines!

Maine Oysters
Jalapeno Relish, Lemony Cucumbers, Watermelon Gazpacho

NV, Nicolas Feuillate, Brut Rose Champagne
Epernay, France
- Perfect clarity with watermelon juice color. On the nose there was a healthy amount of strawberry and raspberry with faint yeast. The palate was of super dry strawberry and raspberry with a nice pomegranate aftertaste. Terrific acidity and very well-balanced. ES - 90

Salmon Confit
Creamed Leek and Cannellini Ragout, Fennel Salad

2008, Nobilo Icon, Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, New Zealand
- Wonderfully young straw/greenish hue. Nose shouted pineapple, green apple, and grapefruit. The palate was lively and crisp again showing pineapple, green apple, and grapefruit with some nice minerality at the later middle palate. Terrific acidity and balance paired the salmon perfectly. ES - 93

Spiced Rack of Lamb
Fingerling and Avocado Mash, “Bounty” Rum Compote

2006, Domaine Drouhin, Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, Oregon
- Nicely concentrated purple hue. Nose and palate of complex black cherry with hints of oak and the palate continued with a slight trace violet. Very well-structured, nicely complex and elegant. ES - 94

Braised Beef Short Ribs
Oven Roasted Sweet Beets, Charred Belgian Endive, Crispy Onion

2005, Justin Isosceles, Meritage
Paso Robles, California
- Star wine of the night and I am not surprised. It was extremely dark purple, almost black in concentration. The nose was of blackberry, black pepper and oak. The palate was intense and rich, offering blackberry, currants, leather and smoke. The tannins were wonderfully supple. Overall this wine offered a lot of flair and panache. The Braised Short Ribs could not have been a better pairing! Decanted for an hour. ES - 95

Chocolate and Caramel Peach
Vanilla Ice Cream

1999, Chateau Pajzos Aszu 5 Puttanyos, Tokaji
Hungary
- Very surprising and delicious. This wine had a brilliant golden hue. The nose was of honey and apricot which were mirrored on the palate along with some caramel. It had a beautifully viscosity and was sweet, rich with intensity, balance and character. ES - 94

When a wine list is more than a wine list!

2009-08-28T10:05:00.005-04:00

A restaurant’s wine list say a lot about who they are, what their aspirations are, and what they think about you. This is very evident in locations that you will visit across the country. From Applebee’s, to The Cheesecake Factory, to Mario Batali’s Del Posto, you will find very different, yet appropriate, wine experiences that fit the atmosphere, cuisine, and crowd that typically dine at these establishments.

I bring up Batali’s Del Posto, because a good friend of mine recently dined there while taking a long weekend in NYC. Once he returned, he had a few questions for me regarding his wine experience at Del Posto.

"On a recent trip to NYC, I went out for a truly fine dining experience. After being seated I was greeted with a massive wine list. When I mean massive, I mean over 2,500 selections. How does a restaurant build and maintain such a large list, and is it necessary?"

This is a certainly a legitimate way to look at the situation. A wine list of this magnitude can be overwhelming to say the least. The answer to the first part of the question will be a bit wordy, so let me address the second part first.

Using my friend’s example, Del Posto is in the food and wine Mecca of the US. Day in and day out they go up against culinary giants such as Daniel, Jean Georges, Le Cirque, Tribeca Grill and countless others. Competition is fierce and there is a significant amount of prestige that is placed on an award winning wine list and the service that is provided by their resident sommelier(s). Having truly classic wines available is an appropriate necessity when you are dining on a truly classic meal! This is true not only for NYC, but anywhere a high level of importance is placed on quality.

Del Posto, as mentioned before, is one of many restaurants owned by Chef Mario Batali. Besides being an extremely successful restaurateur, he is also a partner in Italian Wine Merchants, which is a high-end wine shop that has a selection of Italian gems unlike any other I have come across. It is this passion for bringing together the complete dining experience that sets restaurants and restaurateurs, like Batali, apart. It is also what allows them to charge a premium for the experience that they provide, while maintaining a waiting list as long as Madison Avenue!

"How does a restaurant build and maintain such a large list?"

To build a wine list with the breadth and vision of Del Posto, locally based Left Bank at the Stonehedge Inn & Spa (Tyngsboro, MA) and Bedford Village Inn in (Bedford, NH) or any restaurant with a tremendous wine offering takes a very structured approach. Once the structure is in place, knowledgeable people are needed to implement the list, along with an owner(s) with exceptionally deep pockets.

Initially, the most important steps are to realistically assess your clientele, menu, storage space and budget. Not everyone can afford a bottle of a Bordeaux First-Growth, Chateau Petrus, Gaja Sori Tilden, or E. Guigal Ermitage Ex Voto, especially when marked-up to restaurant standards. This means that there must be a number of wines to bridge the gap between reasonably-priced wines and the classics.

The job of creating any wine list typically falls either to the owner, a wine director/sommelier, a consultant, or unfortunately in some cases, a distributor. Now a list that is of notable quality will probably not be developed solely by a distributor, so we will avoid speaking about them any further.

Depending on the size of a wine list, the owner, if truly knowledgeable, or a consultant can put into place something very special that will convey to the patrons that their experience is of the utmost importance. This takes a massive amount of time and effort, so unless you plan on doing all of the leg work, hire someone to do it for you. A good example of this is Unums in Nashua, NH. They have a modest wine list compared to Del Posto, but it is well thought out and looked over by the owners. A different example is Junipers at the Wildflower Inn located in Lyndonville, VT. The owners and management did not have the knowledge to put together a thoughtful and quality wine list. They decided to hire a consultant do so. It was rewarding to see them embrace what a thoughtful wine list could do, not only for their patrons, but for their restaurant.

Creating and maintaining a list such as the one at Left Bank at Stonehedge, which offers 2,000 selections (101,000 bottles in inventory), or Del Posto, which offers 2,300 selections (39,000 bottles in inventory) takes a team effort. The organization is typically led by a wine director and generally includes personnel working beneath them (i.e. assistant director and sommelier). The task is a daily exercise in taking inventory (thank goodness for computers), reordering, blind and regular tastings, negotiating, rotation, research, promotion, etc. It is a daunting task, but a task that is energetically undertaken, because wine professionals are exceptionally passionate about what they do.

Ultimately, a restaurateur’s goal is to create an experience that is positively unique and memorable. A strong wine list is essential in conveying the message of a restaurant to its patrons. If this is done effectively, the guests will leave happy and be more likely to return.

We should be used to this by now…

2009-08-25T14:45:00.009-04:00

Ever since wine has fallen under the jurisdiction of state governments, there has been an ongoing battle regarding censorship. The state argues that alcohol (including wine) is an evil that needs to be highly regulated and even censored when appropriate. Although their intentions are pure, their implementation of restrictions is down-right ludicrous.

A few weeks back, I reported about an incident covered by Wine Spectator that took place in Alabama. The Alabama Alcohol Control Board decided to ban the wine produced by Cycles Gladiator. They enacted this ban because the bottle has a replica of a painting depicting a naked woman flying next to a bicycle on the label and deemed it pornographic. Although Cycles Gladiator historically produces some very average to poor wines, the ban effectively provided them with unwarranted amounts of publicity and drove sales to levels they have never seen. Good work ‘Bama, you promoted a horrible wine!

Now, enter the Maine representative David Webster (D- from Freeport). As reported in the Kennebec Journal on Monday, Webster has successfully proposed an amendment to L.D. 498. It states that alcoholic taste-testing activities must be conducted in a manner that precludes the possibility of observation by children. Here we go again!

Let us take this opportunity to look at this law and raise some points/ask some questions.

1) Children should not be in the beer/wine/alcohol section of a grocery store during tastings without their parents or guardian.
2) If children are there, it is because their parents decided that they do not mind (either intentionally or unintentionally) if their children are exposed to these actions.
3) If a tasting happens to be observed from a distance, it provides parents with the opportunity to engage in a productive dialogue with their children (or tell them they are sampling iced tea for grown-ups).
3) Why are wine shops coupled in with establishments that serve hard liquor?
4) Does this mean that restaurants which allow children in, which would be all of them, are no longer allowed to serve alcohol?

It is comical that these questions take only a matter of seconds to think of, yet were not considered or proposed for correction until after the law had been passed!

To be fair, the article points out that wine shops and restaurants were never intended to be coupled with liquor and grocery stores that do beer and hard liquor tastings. They were able to straighten things out regarding restaurants, but unfortunately not wine shops.

Regardless, beginning September 12th, wine shops will have to cordon off areas in which they conduct wine tastings, or black-out their windows and not permit children inside with their parents, or simply stop doing tastings altogether. The sad thing is, whatever step they end up taking will more likely then not only be needed until January, when legislative proceedings restart and it is anticipated that corrections will be made.

My heart goes out to those people who have wine shops throughout Maine. You all have effectively been hosed by your representatives who should be forced to pay some means of reparations for lost opportunity. It is not a surprise how bills that are rushed for a vote, although well intentioned, are often poorly thought through!

My advice to lawmakers is to stop unnecessarily micro-managing of our lives! We are capable of taking care of ourselves and making appropriate decisions for our families. Put in place some thoughtful laws and let us follow them instead of knit-picking us at every turn.

Time to try a Bordeaux Second!

2009-08-24T15:16:00.013-04:00

For most of us, times have been tough and a bottle of one of the best Bordeaux wines is too steep to even dream about buying. Most people cannot even begin to rationalize paying $300, $600, or even $1000-plus for a single bottle of wine. Truth is, even in better times, or for those who can still imagine spending that much, it would be hard to pull the trigger if the situation arose. So how are we to partake in the craft that these amazing wine houses put forth?

The Answer: Bordeaux Second Wines!

The craft of wine making in Bordeaux is one that demands perfection. Only the best grapes go into the estate wines. This would obviously leave a lot of waste if the remaining grapes went unused or sold to lesser crafters. The question was asked, “what do we do with all of the grapes that are still excellent, but not perfect?” The answer came in the 18th Century, when Bordeaux’s major wine houses began using these grapes to create their “second” wines.

Bordeaux Seconds are an opportunity for us, mere monetarily restricted mortals, to enjoy wines crafted by the elites. Names such as Château Latour, Château Margaux, and Château Petrus (just to name a few), are now available to us without the need to shell out a weeks or months worth of pay! The best part, you sacrifice little in terms of quality and complexity! Using Wine Spectator's ratings as a guide, the 2004 Château Petrus was rated 93 points and would run you around $900. Now compare that to their second wine, Château La Fleur-Petrus, of the same vintage. It will run you around $80 and is rated 92 points, that's less then 1/10 the cost! If that is not a deal then I don’t know what is?! Examples such as this are not uncommon and Bordeaux Seconds are carried quite readily by wine merchants and liquor stores for this reason.

Here is a list of some of the Estates and their corresponding Second wines:

Bordeaux First Growths:
Château Latour - Les Forts de Latour
Château Margaux - Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux
Château Mouton-Rothschild - Le Petit Mouton
Château Haut-Brion - Bahans Haut-Brion
Château Lafite-Rothschild - Carrudades de Lafite-Rothschild

Other Bordeaux (a little more affordable and just as enjoyable):
Château Lynch-Bages – Château Haut-Bages Averous ($25-40)
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - La Croix de Beaucaillou ($25-40)
Château Petrus - Château La Fleur-Petrus ($60-95)
Château Palmer - Alter Ego de Palmer ($70-100)

The next time you are looking for a special occasion or gift wine, keep an eye out for Bordeaux Seconds. They have all of the prestige and quality without the astronomically high price! I hope you have a chance to enjoy one of these at some point. You will not be disappointed.

A German-style Riesling from Washington

2009-08-19T13:46:00.007-04:00

2007, Chateau Ste. Michelle/Dr. Loosen Eroica, Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington - $20-25

The 2007 Eroica is a classically crafted, German-style Riesling. It is not like most Riesling produced along the Pacific Coast states that typically have medium to high residual sugar, which makes them sweet. The Eroica characteristically has lower residual sugar, which leads to a nice undertone of sweetness, but nothing overly forceful.

The nose and palate are very vibrant with delicious pear and the palate continues to develop with citrus notes that slowly introduce some terrific minerality (think wet stone). The acidity and balance is absolutely terrific, which allows this wine to compliment spicy and/or lighter dishes (non-red meat) incredibly well. Unlike most lighter/semi-sweet, white wines, this Eroica certainly should stand up over time due to its terrific structure and acidity.

Much of the complex qualities and amazing craftsmanship of this wine should be attributed to the knowledge of those at the renowned Dr. Loosen in Mosel, Germany and winemaker Bob Bertheau at Chateau Ste. Michelle. By melding Old World techniques with New World ingenuity, they have been able to collaborate on some really terrific wines over the years.

Chateau Ste. Michelle/Dr. Loosen Eroica Riesling is a very under-appreciated wine that has a ton of finesse and quality, but it is not completely understood. Many people think of the sweet Rieslings they have had in the past and overlook this gem. Don’t be one of them!

I give this wine a 91 pt rating (verging on 92), as does Wine Spectator and the Wine Advocate. Wine & Spirits hits it with a hefty 93 which is by no means a stretch! It is readily available at any wine shop or liquor store so give it a try! You will not be disappointed.

Cab rules supreme, but why?

2009-08-13T13:14:00.012-04:00

Final Tally:
Cabernet Sauvignon - 6
Zinfandel - 3
Merlot - 3
Sangiovese - 3
Pinot Noir - 2
Nebbiolo - 1
Other - 1

The results of the latest poll are in, and as expected, Cab is King. I am sure a number of factors go into this outcome, but to me the most notable would be the vast selection of Cabernet that is carried at most liquor and grocery stores. Along with this, and equally as important, the simplicity of the labeling. The thing is there are a lot of cabs that fall under that appealing decent category in quality, but very few are stellar (and those that are usually demand overly inflated prices).

For those of you who enjoy Cabernet I would strongly suggest that you branch out and try something new. Two of Italy’s gems, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, possess many of the characteristics that make Cabernet appealing. These two Italians offer the same strength and complexity that Cabernet usually possesses without the savagery that can sometimes make Cabernet not the best wine to pair with food.

Like many European grape varietals, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese are more known for the wine regions they hail from then by their names themselves. Nebbiolo is the backbone of the terrific wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, while Sangiovese may be more familiar to you as Chianti or Toscana wines, of which they are the majority grape used. No matter what they are known as, they make some of my favorite wines! Also, wine in Italy is meant to be consumed at most meals, thus their wines are created with food friendliness in mind!

The next time you are looking for a wine to select, I want you to venture out of the Cabernet section and start taking a gander at the Italian section. Find a bottle that is in the price range that you would have selected and try that instead. It is a cool way to begin to learn about different wines (just make sure you stay away from da Vinci).

One to look for in a reasonable price range, and one that is readily available, is Antinori Villa Toscana. The Antinori Wine Empire can easily be thought of as the Mondavi Dynasty but of Italy (sans family turmoil that was the inspiration of TV's Falcon Crest). The current release is the 2005 vintage and will run you around $20-25. Compared to most Cabernet offered at this price, it is a terrific option.

2005, Antinori Villa Toscana, Tuscany, Italy - $20-25

Antinori makes some of Tuscany’s best wines. Their higher end Tignanello and Solaia have enjoyed heaps of praise throughout the years. They also produce some very nice entry-level wines as well. For many years their Pèppoli Chianti has been one of the most reasonably priced Chianti gems out there. To this list I would add their table wine, the Villa Toscana.

The 2005 is a very deep red that is medium to full-bodied. On the nose you can almost smell what you picture of Tuscany. Dark berries and herbal notes paint a rustic picture and lead to the palate in which you get some of the berry with a lot of ripe red plum (the kind that stains your fingers). The finish is moderate with nice balance and decent complexity.

To me this Tuscan is a solid 89 and Wine Spectator have it an 87. Although not quite a great wine it is certainly very good and at $20-25 I feel that it is a good value as well. Pizza would be the best food pairing with this, but also most meals containing steak, pork, veal, meaty fish, or grilled vegetables will also shine.

Regardless of what I think, challenge yourself the next time you are out shopping for wine. Step away from what you are comfortable with and try something truly unique to most American wine drinkers. I am by no means knocking Cab, but next time grab a Barolo or Barbaresco for a special occasion, or a nice Toscana, Chianti or Chianti Classico (only difference is the age of the zone it is in) when you order a pizza. I think you will be pleasantly surprised!

A terrific Merlot from Napa…No Way?!

2009-08-08T09:38:00.014-04:00

Over the years I have become more and more aware of, and slightly cynical towards, Napa's propensity to overlook an exceptionally important varietal, Merlot. If you look at Napa's Merlot focus, there are only a few handfuls of wineries that take pride in producing outstanding Merlot. It has been some time since I have come across a truly exceptional bottle of Napa Merlot in the moderate to moderately-expensive price range (sometimes you have to bite the bullet and spend a little more then normal to get what you desire).

Back in the spring, while in Cleveland visiting family, my cousin Bob (from "A Cautionary Tale") graciously opened a number of bottles for me. During one of the evenings, he opened a bottle of Plumpjack Merlot. I remember it distinctly due to the name and surprising qualities it put forward. It was because of this experience that I jumped at the chance to include it on Junipers at the Wildflower Inn's wine list.

Last evening I had the chance to partake in another bottle of Plumpjack Merlot, this time with Jason Berkman, the Executive Chef of Legal Sea Foods in Burlington, MA. It again lived up to its reputation and delivered the best Merlot experience I have had in what seems like an eternity!

2006, Plumpjack, Merlot, Napa, California - $53
From the initial sniff, there was something unique going on in the glass. The aroma of black cherry is a typical characteristic of Merlot. However, this rich black cherry was very reminiscent of the nose of a terrific Zinfandel. The aroma is not where the similarities end. On the palate there was a nice harmony between the cherry and red currant that melded into a terrific Zinfandel-esque jamminess! This was followed by pleasant hints of spice leading to some muscular, yet ripe tannins. The finish was truly amazing, lingering for many minutes! This was everything that I love about Merlot.

To put it simply, this was a Barry Sanders type of wine: terrific balance, finesse, power, and grace. I guess that would be my unorthodox way of describing the 2006 Plumpjack Merlot.

Wine Spectator gave this a 91 pt rating which is very accurate. I upped them to a 92 due to the fact that this wine solidly realized its potential as great!

Thanks for nothing 'Bama!

2009-08-07T08:59:00.014-04:00

I have officially added Alabama to the list of states that I will not be visiting (along with Delaware and Michigan…Go Buckeyes!). I know Alabama is an odd state to despise out of the blue, but trust me it is not without reason.

This morning, I opened up WineSpectator online and was looking through the various articles. In Boston, the wine crooks who stole a $20,000 bottle of 1945 Chateau Mouton Rothschild were arrested and the wine was returned. That was followed by a nice story out of Detroit. We find out that Curtis Granderson, All-Star outfielder of the Detroit Tigers, used the allure of wine to raise thousands of dollars for his charity (odd, I guess something good can come out of Michigan). Both fantastic bits of news! Score two for wine!

Then Alabama had to come in and ruin it!

Being the ULTRA-conservative state that it is, the Alabama Alcohol Control Board decided to ban the wine produced by Cycles Gladiator. No, they did not ban the wine because it is cheap hooch. They did not ban it because in 2004 they produced a very weak rated 76 pt Merlot and then followed it up in 2005 with a gem that scored 68 pts from WS (which is one of the lowest ratings I have ever seen!). They did not ban it because once you start drinking it you wish you had not. No! They banned it because it has a replica of a painting depicting a naked woman flying next to a bicycle on the label and deemed it pornographic! Say what?! The last time I checked they have always used this label for all of their varietals. Silly prudish Alabamans!

So why am I mad?

I am mad because the article this morning speaks of increased sales of this junk! This simple act of banning Cycles Gladiator is the best promotion that they have ever received. The worst thing is that the publicity is completely undeserved. Why not ban Merry Edwards wines?! They, like Cycles Gladiator, have paintings of naked women/fairies on the label, plus you would be able to enjoy a terrific, very well-crafted wine while sticking it to the man.

All in all, this is just another reason to avoid Alabama like the plague, along with Cycles Gladiator Merlot!

To be fair to CG, they have improved their wines somewhat in the past couple years, but with a track record like that and all of the other options out there, I would avoid it.

Unums: They totally get it!

2009-08-03T10:16:00.013-04:00

As many of you know I have launched a business venture to try to improve the quality of restaurant wine offerings and service. The goal of Senel Wine Consulting is to help restaurants select quality wines at each price point to allow patrons to have an exceptional restaurant experience.

This past Saturday my wife and I had a chance to get out on a date night. We decided to go with somewhere which we have not been previously. We went to Unums in downtown Nashua and immediately I knew we made the right choice.

Co-owner Stephen Williams greeted us at the door with a handshake and escorted us to our table. From there on we had a terrific culinary experience. We decided on going with three appetizers instead of entrees so that we could sample some of Chef Brianas’ creations. With a line-up of fresh gnocchi & shrimp in a peanut sauce, a red pepper stuffed with mozzarella and sausage, and finished it off with baked brie & fruit plate how could we go wrong?! FYI – the portions were very generous!

We accompanied our meal with a bottle of 2005 Robert Stemmler Nugent Vineyard Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley. It was a very fragrant Pinot and went well with all three dishes. It had a smoked cherry nose and led to cherry and an earthy/smoky note on the palate. The tannins were mellowed out by the meal. It was elegant and complex with a very nice balance and pleasant finish. It is almost up there with the Domaine Drouhin, however the Drouhin inches it out in terms of finesse and complexity. Still a terrific wine! However, on its’ own merit I am scoring this a solid 91.

For dessert we enjoyed a glass of 1999 Felsina Vin Santo from the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany. This was a very interesting wine due to the fact that it had such strong cognac features, yet once I had a chance to look it up (although the information was minimal) it does not seem to be fortified. Hence the nose was of very rich butterscotch similar to cognac. The palate however was very appealing with a lot of fleshy fruit and some honey going on, with the most memorable of the fruits being apricot. This is certainly a slow sipping wine and very fun to try on special occasions. I am by no means a dessert wine expert, however I found the butterscotch scent to be somewhat overpowering. Overall, I would score this wine an 89. It was very well crafted, but my aversion to cognac may have swayed the score slightly lower (don’t forget, every person’s preferences are different!).

Back to Unums!

Stephen and our waitress, Kira, were exceptionally gracious and attentive, yet not overbearing in the slightest. We were there for about three hours and it truly felt like they enjoyed us hanging around. Stephen and I had a chance to talk about the wine offering and also recommended some of his preferred wines. He also shared with me his ambitious endeavor to further improve the wine list and attempt to obtain Wine Spectator recognition. Considering his passion for enhancing his patrons’ experiences and love for well-crafted wine I believe he will certainly obtain this.

The owner, staff, atmosphere, food and drinks, brilliant! In the past I believed that Michael Timothy’s offered the best total dining experience in Southern NH. In my opinion they better stay on their game, because I can definitively say that Unums proudly rivals any New Hampshire establishment for culinary supremacy!

Who says Paris doesn’t produce good wine?!

2009-07-31T13:24:00.013-04:00

Ok, Paris is a horrible place to produce wine, but a terrific place to experience it!

A couple years back (wow time flies), Christine and I went on our honeymoon to Paris. We were really looking forward to the unique wine experiences that lay ahead. We had two really terrific experiences surrounding wine. We had a chance to take a quick trip outside of Paris to the Champagne Region (only an hour and a half drive). While there we had a chance to tour the property of the famed Moët & Chandon, as well as Chateau de Castellane in Epernay. Both were tasty (we got to drink bubbles) and informative. An equally informative and pleasant wine experience took place on Day One, in Paris!

Our Parisian Honeymoon began with a wine tasting. We thought we would take the opportunity to get to know Paris and walk to our destination (it looked like only six inches on the map so how far could it be?!). We walked from the Arc de Triomphe to the extreme opposite side of old Paris. Let’s just say that the blisters were a constant reminder that better planning would have been helpful! Regardless, we made it to our destination and quite frankly, it was awesome!

Oliver Magny runs Ô Chateau, which at the time was run out of his loft. It was such a cool, hip place and offered a very relaxing atmosphere to begin your journey across Frances different wine regions. Christine and I ended up doing the "Grand 7" tasting. Think of the Tour de France, traveling all around but instead of riding a bike you are drinking wine, without leaving the room. We tasted wines from the Champagne, Loire Valley, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Languedoc, the Rhône Valley, and Alsace regions. It was a cool progression that showed the diversity of France’s wines. The whole time Olivier's passion and knowledge for wine came through in such an inspiring and easy to understand way (the best way to describe Olivier is to think of Jamie Oliver, but for wine and without a lisp). Also, if I remember correctly, this is the moment marking the transition for Christine from fruity whites towards the reds! That would make Olivier my hero!

The reasons I wanted to write about Ô Chateau is that if you ever go to Paris, you better include this experience in your trip. It is a great way to jump-start your Parisian vacation, while truly enjoying some nice wines and company. The second reason is to recommend that you remain open to the expertise and enthusiasm of professionals in the wine world. Be it your local wine shop owner or the tasting-room person in any Napa winery, we all love to share our wine knowledge. If you have questions, please never hesitate to ask! To us, there is nothing better.

** Note** Ô Chateau is now located under the historic and beautiful Parisian Hotel Particulier. The tasting room is the 300 year old cellar that served as the personal cellar of King Louis XV’s sommelier!

For more info on Ô Chateau please visit their website (http://www.o-chateau.com/).

Poll Winner: Pinot Noir!

2009-07-29T08:34:00.015-04:00

Results:
Pinot Noir - 6
Sauvignon Blanc & Riesling - 4 each
Other (better not be White Zinfandel) - 2

So you guys picked a red varietal for your favorite summer wine?!

I am just kidding! I love Pinot Noir anytime of year, and besides Zinfandel it is my favorite summer red. Since Pinot was the poll winner, I will be devoting this entry to two recommendations from this varietal. One entry level, one moderately expensive and both of which can be found easily at your local liquor store (if you are in NH) and are popular enough to find if you live elsewhere.

2006, Domaine Drouhin, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $44
Domaine Drouhin has a very illustrious background. It is the product of the expansion of French wine houses into the “New World”. Maison Joseph Drouhin of Beaune, France sought to pursue this avenue and in 1987 purchased 225-acres of what was then a Christmas-tree farm.

The 2006 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir is one of my favorite wines. The nose is a beautiful rich cherry that is mirrored on the palate along with a hint of spice. The tannins are noticeable; however they are well integrated and even a somewhat delicate. This is a very thoughtful wine that is confident in structure and complexity, very much a classic Burgundy-styled Pinot Noir.

As always, I disagree with the Wine Spectator rating. I feel they are tight-wads in some instances, but then again as I explained in an earlier post, it is only one person’s opinion. WS gave them a 90 for the 2006 vintage and I almost feel slighted for them! This wine is very comfortably a 92 and I think this will only get better with time. Wine & Spirits gave the DD a 93. I think this illustrates that ratings are highly personal!

2007, Benton-Lane, Willamette Valley, Oregon - $22
Benton-Lane produces some very nice Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. In fact, their Pinot Gris has been a revelation. However I will be focusing on their lower-end (price, not quality) Pinot Noir.

The 2007 Benton-Lane Pinot Noir is a very tasty and crisp wine. It is not as complex or elegant as the Domaine Drouhin or its’ big brother, Benton-Lane First Class, but it is not nearly as expensive either. This should not detour you in the slightest. This is meant to be consumed in the near future and is extremely tasty and very well-suited for food.

This wine exudes some very nice strawberry and cherry on the nose. On the palate I found the aromas were reversed. I picked up mainly fresh cherry with some strawberry thrown in for good measure. The balance and finish on this wine are very nice and leave you wanting more!

I was unable to find any published ratings for the 2007 Benton-Lane, but I would put this in the 88 range. This is a very good wine with its nice fruit, balance and crispness keeping it towards the higher end of the 80s.

I hope you have a chance to enjoy one, if not both of these wines. That’s the whole reason why I these things!!!

Terrific wines for the Summer

2009-07-27T10:53:00.013-04:00

The summer is made for picnics, hikes, and barbeques. The summer is also made for two very special wine varietals, Zinfandel* and Sauvignon Blanc. It is amazing how two such amazingly opposite wines can both embody the same season so precisely. Zinfandels are bold, oaked and full-bodied red gems. Sauvignon Blancs are citrusy, light and crisp whites. What they do have in common, is that they both perfectly pair with summer fare.

Zinfandels and the grill are best friends. They seriously should go everywhere together. Pair a beautiful California Zinfandel with barbeque chicken and ribs or a grilled steak and you will not be disappointed. I also find them (as well as Sauvignon Blanc) exceptionally pleasant to sip on their own, but food really brings out the best in them. The Zinfandel we will be reviewing today is the 2006 Ridge Vineyards Geyserville, Sonoma, California.

Sauvignon Blancs, with their delicate characteristics pair very well with seafood (grilled or boiled, especially shrimp. When I think of Sauv Blanc I think of a fresh spinach salad with grilled shrimp and a light vinaigrette or lemon juice to dress it (OK, my mouth is watering). When picking a Sauvignon Blanc, the 2008s from Marlborough, New Zealand were amazing. Of those, the one we will be reviewing today is the 2008 Nobilo Icon.

2006, Ridge Vineyards Geyserville, Zinfandel, Sonoma, California - $35
Ridge Vineyards of California consistently produces some of my top choice Zinfandel's. For the past three vintages, Geyserville Vineyard, in Sonoma County has been my favorite of the Ridge vineyards. The 2006 is a wonderful meaty wine, with lush, dark berries taking over the aroma. On the palate you may find that raspberry and pepper dominate. A very appealing wine that is a perfect accompaniment with heavier grilled foods (beef, pork, vegetables and meaty fish).

Wine Spectator gave this a 90, but I believe it is a solid 91. 90 is just a little too marginal for me, this is an outstanding wine (Wine & Spirits agreed, scoring it a 92).

2008, Nobilo Icon, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand - $15
When I first came about this wine, I was doing some research at the local liquor store. I decided that it was a nice day for a refreshing Sauvignon Blanc, so I picked it up. It was kind of like finding a Benjamin in your jeans pocket! My favorite Sauv Blanc!

Upon first pour, the grapefruit aromas intoxicate and refresh you instantly. On the palate you pick up the grapefruit as well. After the grapefruit you get a hint of lemon zest along with slight minerality. Not to mention that the acidity is perfect! You put these components together and you have one terrific wine.

Wine Spectator scored this a whopping 92, but that is not even enough for me. When you factor in the aroma, brilliant visual appearance, terrific structure and complexity, and finally the palate, you have a wine that is safely a 94 for me. Not quite a classic, but very close!

*Important Notice* I by no means was referring to White Zinfandel. Blah!